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R33 GTR Nz Wiring trigger kit problem


Btune

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Hello, I have a customer car (R33 GTR RB26) with NZ Wiring trigger kit. Car starts perfectly and runs fine. However after some time running if if I shut it off, It wont start back up again.

Trigger starts throwing errors and it doesnt sync. However if it manages to start it will run well without any errors. The problem seems to occur only on hot starts and while cranking. 

I attach logs and the map.

Thanks!

trigger rb26 nzwiring fail2.llgx trigger rb26 nzwiring working.llgx rb26 nzwiring test.pclx

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Looking at that fail trigger scope the issue is the signal isn't high enough to meet the 0.2V Arming threshold. Have you checked your air gap and set it properly?

Cranking Speed and reduced airgap would be the two ways to increase the voltage of the signal, It looks like your fail scope is cranking at 150rpm but I'm not sure if this is normal or low for an RB, I could check on mine later.

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Voltages (in blue) are more reasonable this time than the first fail scope which was all peaks of 0.2V or less. Given that you have gaps in the detected teeth (in white) that aren't the missing tooth that suggests that your arming voltage is too high at that engine speed, by my maths this scope is taken at ~170rpm.

5 hours ago, Btune said:

Last time it started missing I removed the shim and the issue persisted. Will give it a try again.

Was this done after your first fail scope and before your most recent scope? I am assuming yes because of the massive difference in signal voltage.

 

Given that the tune attached in your first post shows an arming threshold value of 0.2V at cranking I am confused as to why it would still be unhappy

Capture.PNG

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A bit of a strange one, you have a whole lot of noise that comes and goes on trig 1.  The noise bounces the voltage up and down by about 0.7V, so cant be ignored with arming threshold.

Not sure where this is coming from, maybe starter motor or something.  Can you try increasing the filter on trig 1 to see if that helps.  

It would be good to see a cranking scope taken when it does start successfully also.  

sXnmghr.png

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Yeah that noise is not present in the cold scope.  

Is the battery still in the engine bay or has it been moved to the trunk?  If it has been moved, make sure there is a large ground cable from bat to engine, not grounding through the chassis.

Also check the connector on the ecu is straight and pushed all the way home at each end, some times they get a curve in them and some of the ground pins at the end done engage.

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Hey Adam, battery on the GTR comes standard in the trunk and it grounds behind the rear seats.  I could try grounding the battery to the engine for testing.

Also serviced the starter and it cranks a bit faster but when it's hot and I let it sit for a while, same issue.

Will check the connector since I already had to Dremel the bolt a bit as the link didnt have the proper depth for it and couldn't fasten the connector properly.

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  • 7 months later...

Hi, did anyone manage to figure this out. My r32 gtr has a link G4x with a wiring nz trigger kit.  It won't start when hot and we have done everything.  New high power starter motor, new battery more earth's, new wiring, sent the computer back twice.  Tried another nz wiring Tigger kit reset the tension on the Cam belt. The engine has been fully rebuild so everything is new. If we put the factory Cas in it runs no problem but put the trigger kit back in and won't start once hot. The scope is smooth when running hot or cold and it's got a tiny bit of saw tooth on cold start but doesn't affect it starting. Once hot it looks like a saw blade. I'm at a loss? Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

Cheers gents.

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