kayzarh Posted May 3, 2022 Report Share Posted May 3, 2022 Hi, Anyone know what the difference is between the Haltech WB1 Vs the Link CAN Lambda. I can get the Link kit for £350 and the Haltech for £250 hence the reason for asking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 4, 2022 Report Share Posted May 4, 2022 I havent used one of the new Haltech ones in the plastic case, but the older one in the aluminium case was very slow, something like 10Hz, Vs the Link @ 100Hz. The Link has a few other features such as 2 way CAN coms so it starts heating only after the engine starts as per Bosch's spec for improved sensor life, it has capability of exhaust pressure compensation and ability to assign different ID's per device if for example you want individual lambdas for each cylinder. The Link one also has configurable bit rate so can be made to be compatible with any other CAN device you want to run. Haltech is fixed at 1Mb/s so you can only use it with other devices that run at the same speed. Otherwise I dont know much about the hardware, I dont know if they use a genuine Bosch chipset like ours or hardware they have developed themselves or how they calibrate them. I dont know how typical sensor life compares to ours. Having said that I know a few Link users use them and havent heard any complaints - (apart from the bitrate issue when they want to connect other 3rd party devices). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2022 Hi Adam, Thanks for this. The Link has a few other features such as 2 way CAN coms so it starts heating only after the engine starts as per Bosch's spec for improved sensor life. The above feature is more than enough of a reason thanks for this. Do I need a 4 pin CANJST or 5 pin CANJST to hook this up? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 4, 2022 Report Share Posted May 4, 2022 That will depend on which specific ECU you have. Most of our plug-ins have the 5pin CANJST. We have started to change to the CANJST4 on newly released or recently updated plugins in the last year or so. At the time of writing, the below plug-ins only would use the CANJST4: 233-4000 - PlugIn ECU G4X Honda S2000 AP1 228-4000 - PlugIn ECU G4X Subaru WRX V5-6 237-4000 - PlugIn ECU G4X Honda HC20X Type-R DC5/RSX Note also the CANJST/CANJST4 are quite short ~300mm. You may also need a CANEXT to reach the CAN lambda typically in the engine bay or underbody. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2022 Hi Adam, Can I not just run my own loom back into the can expansion ? Is there any real benefit other than convenience to get the CANJST and extension? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 4, 2022 Report Share Posted May 4, 2022 Yes of course you can do the wiring yourself if you have the capability. The items listed are just the most simple and least effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2022 Hi Adam, Please see above convo from Haltech confirming 2 way comm for the WB1. Is your answer above still the same based on this info? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 6, 2022 Report Share Posted May 6, 2022 Yep it sounds like they now only start heating when engine is running so thats a step in the right direction. The other comments still apply but are probably not to important to many users. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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