NS15x trigger issues

[Nick Warburton]

I have just fitted my ns15x to my UK "zenki" s14 (i have a later 1996 s14 with the 64 pin header) along with my tuner we performed basic settings, set up IAT sensor, calibrated map sensor, throttle position and set triggers types, set master fuel etc. (for clarity it had an apexi power FC fitted previously and had the CAS wiring & fuel pump output in the ecu header repinned to JDM configuration as is necessary. So i am using the "jdm" setting on the trigger dip switches. 

To begin with it wouldn't start and it would kick back under cranking, turned over fine with fuel turned off. My tuner had mapped an s15 on a g4+ in the past and had to set the trigger offset to -98, did that with mine and it now runs but poorly, possibly on 3 or fewer cylinders. Whilst it is running trigger 1 signal flashes on and off whilst trigger 2 stays on, rpm value flickers between correct value and 0. In the trigger scope it shows trigger 1 scope as a full block of green. (see attached) when i change the dip switches to the non jdm setting imagine the same scope but swap them round.

When i plug in my old power fc the engine runs just fine so im fairly happy there isn't an issue with the engine, wiring or CAS. I only changed turbo, I/C pipe work and ecu, nothing else. I have noticed there is a surface mount chip that appears to be "wonky" compared to all the nice squarely mounted components (see attached) it is probably nothing but its worth mentioning.

I have an event next weekend and worst case im going to have to get it tuned on my old power fc but that means im going to need to refit a maf and a few other changes, not really a massive trauma but that wasnt really the point of buying this ecu.

Current map of it running poorly attached.

Other spec / info worth noting:

Injectors Nismo 740cc

Link Bosch 2 pin type IAT sensor

Onboard 7 bar MAP sensor (thought id bought 4bar but 7bar turned up, shouldnt be an issue?)

VAG TFSI coilpacks with ignitor bypass (runs on power fc fine)

Throttle position sensor  OEM

CAS OEM

FPR OEM 3 bar

I'd be over the moon just to get the bloody thing running on 4 cylinders about now

Thanks, Nick

AF1QipMd_PcH_PvcM7L0IFd9KKs3AbWqf3lsIYWX7Snq[1] AF1QipNj1dvlgHW0LCHTMU7PoPzQ5tFYrJ5JUSoTaILH[1] AF1QipP3WDf4JUAaxIPZ1vPN5w4XxTHuMXICcSn5E6Ut[1] s14.3 running bad.pclx

[Vaughan]

3 of your uploaded files appear to not have uploaded properly, can you attach a trigger scope and short PC Log of cranking please.

Do you get an engine speed showing up in the software, have you checked the ignition timing with a timing light?

[Nick Warburton]

This should be two images of trigger scope capture. I'm away from the car at the moment. Will attempt to get a log or cranking asap. 

When it's running it shows engine speed flickering between the value you'd expect for idle and zero, at the same time trigger 1 goes active / inactive.

Timing is checked with a light.

[Adamw]

We need the actual saved scope file, not a pic.  

[Nick Warburton]

Are these any help? I dropped in on the car on the way to work. will be away for a couple hours

TriggerScopeLog crank only.llgx log cranking fuel off.llgx

[Adamw]

The trigger looks happy in both that trigger scope and the cranking log.  But in one of those pics above you have caught it just at the right time and you can see a small gap in the trig 1 signal in two places.  

I have seen an SR20 CAS do this before when it had very low voltage.  Your battery voltage in the cranking log is a little low but not particularly bad so Im not sure that is the problem in this case but either voltage or a faulty CAS is the only things I can think of that would cause chucks of several teeth to disappear from the signal.  So I would start at the CAS power supply anyway, check the 12V supply on the CAS is actually near full bat voltage. Even better - if you have a piece of wire floating around, pull the 12V wire out of the CAS plug and bodge up a temp wire straight from bat + post to the CAS 12V pin to see if it runs better like that.  

Not related to trigger - but have you done an ignition test on each output to confirm all coils spark and in the correct order?  Ign 1 test should have coil 1 sparking, Ign 2 test should make coil 2 spark etc.  

[Nick Warburton]

Hi, the battery is new and left on charge when I'm not there, there is battery voltage, or very close to it  to the cas. I can fire battery voltage to it if that's what it needs

I have tested coils but can't remember if the order was or wasn't correct, I'll look at that.

I'd agree on the cas being possibly faulty if it didn't run fine on the power fc or would the old unit be able to see past any little errors?

Also as I mentioned in my original post I have  surface mounted chip that doesn't look very goof, looks like it's "wonky" in its spot compared to all the other nicely placed units. (See attached) is that case for concern at all?

[Adamw]

Some IC's float off position a little as the solder underneath flows.  The ECU's are all tested for several hours over a wide range of temperatures after assembly to ensure all is working and within tolerances.  That specific chip is the accelerometer, so nothing to do with the triggers.  

[jdniss]

The injector dead times in the uploaded tune look to be the factory S15 440cc/480cc settings that come in the Link S15 G4x Base Map @Nick Warburton

I'm running Nismo 740cc injectors with the following Dead Times - borrowed from another ECU Manufacturer's Forum:

Nismo (16600-RR544) / Tomei (195017) / Apexi (404-N006) / HKS (1402-RN009)
aka JECS 740cc injectors (side feed, high impedance, circle, red)

Voltage: msec
8v: 1.641
10v: 0.973
12v: 0.633
14v: 0.463
16v: 0.359
18v: 0.227

You may want to compare the Ignition Dwell Times against the PowerFC too - the uploaded map look to have Base Map settings too - especially if you have a non-factory Coilpack in there