1UZ Initial Tuning Suggestions

[Alan.K]

I have a first generation, non-VVTI 1UZ-FE running with a Link Atom G4X and coil on plug.

The shop that supplied the Atom and wire harness sent me a setup configured for boost.  I'm running N/A.  That shop is no longer responding to my emails, so I'm hoping the experts here will chime in with some suggestions.

I've reconfigured the wire harness and tune to get my engine running.

Initially it was so rich it fouled the plugs.  I turned the master fuel down from 15 to 11ms and it's much better now.

It starts, idles and I've taken it out for a short gentle drive.

I have the base timing checked/set, cooling fan configured, tach set up, ISCV solenoid set up, TPS calibrated, and I'm getting good readings from the IAT, ECT, and CAN-Lambda.

 

My question is: Should I start tuning with the fuel and ignition maps that I was provided?  I believe they are for a boosted engine.  Or would I be better off copying in a known good N/A base map and starting from there? If the latter, any suggestions where to procure some good base maps? (did I read there is a 1UZ base file lurking in the software somewhere?)

I'm happy to share some files of my current setup, if someone would be so gracious as to look them over.

(note: I have not tuned a standalone in 20 years, and never used a Link before, so consider me a dummy until proven otherwise)

[Adamw]

For your ignition table you can import the table below as a starting point.  For the fuel table just delete the boost rows and tune it.  

1UZ NA ign.lte

[Steve Bull]

I just tried to look at the above file and cant get it to load on the link software. Is it some odd file.

[Adamw]

Right mouse click on your ign table >import/export>import from file.

[Alan.K]

Adam, thanks for the map and the suggestions.

I've been getting the fuel map dialed in over the last few days and it's about 98% perfect.

Unless you suggest otherwise, I would like to work on the Accel Enrichment next.

Would you recommend using MAP or TPS? I assume both would work equally well on my engine, but maybe one is easier to configure?

Also, can you suggest any base or typical range values to start with (deadband/decay/sensitivity/cold correction etc)? 

I'm running a single O2 sensor at the merge between the two exhaust banks.  It's exactly 120mm/47" from the nearest exhaust port (#7).

[Adamw]

TPS is always best for accel enrichment.  

Firstly turn on asynchronous injection with a min PW of 1.0ms, this will reduce the amount of accel enrichment needed.  

Start with something like below.  This is from an engine using modelled fuel equation so the cold correction is all 1.  If you are using traditional fuel equation you will often need more cold correction for a cold engine.  Tune it warm initially anyhow and add cold correction later only if needed (flat spots etc when cold). 

Check with the engine idling what your TPS delta is and set your deadband a little above this.  You can add the parameter "Accel Fuel" to a time plot to see when and how much accel fuel is being added.  If you see accel fuel being added at idle or other steady state conditions then increase the deadband.  

 

 

[Alan.K]

Thanks Adam.  Following your tips I've got the Accel functions working great.  Throttle response is more snappy and no more lean bog when cold.

The only thing left on my tuning agenda is timing.  The engine feels like it could take a little more timing for peak power.

The ECU is wired to one of the stock knock sensors.  Is the stock sensor reliable/sensitive enough to watch a time plot of the engine noise/knock and adjust timing based on that?

[Adamw]

No you cant really use the knock sensor for tuning ignition, the knock control system needs to be set up and tuned before it will be capable of reliably detecting knock.  

 

[Alan.K]

I watched a video of a guy tuning with knock on the dyno.  He set up a Time Plot of Knock Threshold (I think it was) and then scaled it so the engine background noise was about half the vertical axis of the plot. 

Is that what you mean by the knock control system being "set up and tuned"?

Or is it something that requires tools/skills beyond my resources?

[Adamw]

To tune the knock system you really need audio knock detection equipment and experience of what to listen for.  Once you have the threshold somewhere close to following the engine noise profile, then you have to purposely make it knock to make sure it is detecting the knock and you also need to make sure it is not detecting knock when there is none. 

When you have audio knock gear then you would usually use that for knock detection when tuning the ignition table anyway - rather than just using it to set up and test the onboard knock control system then change to using the onboard knock for tuning the ign.  The experienced human ear with decent audio equipment is typically pretty good at discriminating knock from regular background noise with no setup, where as an electronic system will need significant tuning and testing before you can rely on it. 

A bit more info in reference to your comment "Is the stock sensor reliable/sensitive enough to watch a time plot of the engine noise/knock and adjust timing based on that?"  Unless you are using a fairly low octane fuel I wouldnt expect a NA gen 1 1UZ to be "knock limited" - in other words you will reach the point of best ignition timing before knock occurs.  So for example lets say under cruise conditions it may make best torque with say 43deg advance, but if you had knock detection equipment you might find you need to advance as far as say 55-60deg before knock occurs - so if you used "knock" as the metric for tuning the ignition table then you are likely going to end up well beyond peak torque values and probably no better off than being 10deg too retarded but well away from the knock limit.  Knock detection is definitely a nice safety tool to have while tuning, but on its own it wont give you any indication of where your ign timing needs to be.  

 

 

[Alan.K]

Great explanation. Thanks for taking the time to write that down. 

I'm really pleased with how the engine is running currently. I'll keep driving it and see if any minor glitches appear, but unless you have any other suggestions, I think the tune is pretty much done.