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trigger error/stalls at around 3000 rpm


racetoys@att.net

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Your first tooth following the gap isnt always crossing zero.  This is possibly due to a poor wheel design.  Where did the trigger wheel come from and what is the design like around the missing tooth area?  

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There is also a lot of variation of the wave form amplitude (height/voltage) which may also suggest you have excessive mechanical run-out.  This is not actually causing a problem in this scope, but 35V difference in half a crank revolution is fairly extreme and would likely indicate some accuracy issues.

9krC8T7.png

 

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I just googled "electromotive trigger wheel" and some of the pictures show a good design with the "1/2 depth missing teeth", while some others pictures show a more troublesome design with full depth missing teeth.  So perhaps they changed their design at some point?  An article from the help file below, do your missing teeth look like the "correct design" at the top or the "incorrect" at the bottom?  

Electromotive may have got away with this design by adding significant load to the trigger circuit as their ecu was originally designed to only work with one specific trigger wheel/sensor combo - we cant really do that as then the ecu wouldnt work well with all the other triggers we need to support.  

Whats the wiring like - are you still using the electromotive wiring or have you started from scratch?  

I may have a couple of ideas we can try once I get some of these questions above answered.  Check your wheel is running true in the meantime though.

lmPsHAT.png

 

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On 11/9/2022 at 12:08 PM, [email protected] said:

update:

thanks Adam , it was the trigger wheel, i've change it to link tw an everything works great

 

hello all, 

new trigger solve cutout/stall at 3000 rpm, now i have intermittent crank no start/ backfire . crank again and it will fire up

louie3tgte.pclx

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The starting problem is because you have no cam signal.  If you want to run direct spark ignition the ecu needs to know engine position within the 720deg 4 stroke cycle, you need a cam sensor for this.  A crank wheel alone only covers 360deg of engine position.  

So with no cam sensor, syncing to the correct 4 stroke phase will be pure "luck of the draw".  Approx 50% of start attempts you will win and the spark will occur on compression stroke, the other 50% of attempts you will lose and will be sparking on exhaust stroke so it wont start.   

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