TotalShopPrestige Posted December 29, 2022 Report Share Posted December 29, 2022 SR20DET G4X Plug n Play Issue: Losing Trigger 1 sync randomly. So I have a car in my possession and I’ve been having issues with Trigger 1 sync. I’ve tried multiple known working OEM Cam Angle Sensors with each one showing little to no improvement. Most recently I’ve converted the car to a Taarks Hall Sensor Trigger Kit. The trigger issues are still present. Errors were every few seconds at idle. I added an additional chassis ground and this improved but it is still present. The air gap for the sensor is currently set to .6 mm. I have also attached trigger scope logs and photos of trigger settings. I’ve interpreted the scope to the best of my abilities. Looking for assistance as I’m running out of ideas. Thank you in advance. PossibleErrorCapture.llgx 1.llgx 2.llgx 3.llgx 4.llgx 5.llgx 6.llgx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 29, 2022 Report Share Posted December 29, 2022 Yeah you have caught it in one of those scopes. If you look at the parameter "trigger 1 state" it should change from "counting" to "tooth after sync" once its counted 12T and is expecting to see the sync again. Provided it sees the sync again where it is expected to be then it will go back to counting and do the same 12T later. In the places where they trigger errors occur however we see the state change to "tooth after sync" after only 10 or 11 teeth, not 12. So this means the ecu must have received a random "spike" on the trigger 1 signal that has met all the criteria to be accepted as a "tooth". The trigger scope is too low res and the sample rate is too low to show this spike. Do you know anyone with a standalone oscilloscope? What does it have for an ignition system? Do you have resistor spark plugs? If you go to >help>ecu information, what maincode firmware version do you have? TotalShopPrestige 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TotalShopPrestige Posted December 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2022 This car is equipped with the OEM sr20det CoilPacks, I typically run most SR20s on NGK BKR7E Plugs so they are resistor type plugs. The maincode firmware version is 6.20.17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 29, 2022 Report Share Posted December 29, 2022 Have a double check of those spark plugs if you havent recently, they are by far the most common cause of EMI and I have been caught before where I found 3 spark plugs were resistor type and one wasnt. Your firmware is about a year old so it is worth updating that but I dont remember any changes since 6.20 that would help with trigger noise. A standalone scope with a better sample rate often helps narrow down where the noise is coming from, but failing that your only option is to eliminate what you can. How does the new cam sensor connect back to the ECU - is it going via the original CAS wire? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TotalShopPrestige Posted December 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2022 I’ll give another look at the spark plugs. I just updated the firmware hoping for a simple fix with no luck. The new cam sensor runs via the original CAS wiring. The harness is a wiring specialties harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Admiral Akhtar Posted December 31, 2022 Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 On 12/29/2022 at 8:30 AM, TotalShopPrestige said: I’ll give another look at the spark plugs. I just updated the firmware hoping for a simple fix with no luck. The new cam sensor runs via the original CAS wiring. The harness is a wiring specialties harness. If it goes through the original CAS wiring on an aftermarket Hall sensor setup, the likelihood is that you will need to rewire the trigger wiring. OEM Nissan CAS sensors run 12v instead of the typical 5v that most Hall sensors run and it will likely be wired to the main relay power. OEM CAS sensors also usually ground through the body of the CAS sensor, so Wiring Specialities will have likely wired the ground wire back to an engine ground instead of the sensor ground in the ECU to avoid muddying the sensor ground. Your best bet is to run a seperate shielded loom for Taarks Hall Sensor Trigger Kit using a sensor ground and a 5v power, or verify with the instructions provided with the kit if these are the minimum requirements Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TotalShopPrestige Posted December 31, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 I could see that but I also had the issue on the OEM CAS as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Admiral Akhtar Posted December 31, 2022 Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 5 minutes ago, TotalShopPrestige said: I could see that but I also had the issue on the OEM CAS as well. OEM CAS on Nissan's is temperamental at best I'd honestly looking in to a rewire of the loom, if you contact Wiring specialities and told them you were no longer running a CAS sensor, they would probably tell you it needs to be modified as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 31, 2022 Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 If it were me I would do a quick/crude temporary new wiring to the sensor. I wouldnt even bother with shielding or anything, connect the 12V and gnd straight to the battery if its easier and run two new signal wires to the ecu. That will rule out a whole lot of possibilities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TotalShopPrestige Posted January 12, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2023 I removed the OEM Igniter and swapped to Audi R8 coils and the issue has been resolved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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