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Fury Piggy Back Sensor Wiring


Richy

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I have a Mitsubishi Delica V6 L400 with auto-transmission, the original ECU is too old to be flashed and the Van won't go without it.

The Fury loom already has wiring for the TPS bundled together with reference voltage and sensor earth.  The old ECU still requires the input and is currently providing the +5 & Gnd. To piggy back can I ignore the Fury's +5/Gnd wires and just connect the sensor wire or should I be using An Volt inputs as per the eng. temp sensor instructions?

Trig 1 and Trig 2 are also bundled, should I be connecting Fury ECU sensor ground to the OEM ECU's sensor ground?

Thanks!

Delica ECU Pinout.xls Delica MPI wiring.pdf

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Connect the Fury sensor ground to the OEM sensor ground.  You wont need the Fury 5V.  Any signals that are required by both ecu's can be shared.  Turn the pull-ups off on the temp inputs and the trigger inputs.   

Just FYI, you may have looked at the L400 closer than me but thought I would mention this as it could possibly save you a lot of time:  I recently done a L200 that had a dead factory ecu for a friend, our evo3 plug-in dropped right in and worked, some small changes to IO in the software and that was about all it needed.  When I was researching that pinout before I started I found most of the Mitsi's around that era (I think it was a 2000) all used the same ecu, mangas, pajeros, L300's, RVR's, etc.  This one was a manual trans but the only thing I see related to the trans in your pinout is possibly pin 116.  

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Thanks for your help Adam. It does look like the evo3 would plug straight in, but I have already purchased the fury and have started wiring.  I was worried about creating ground loops if I connected the sensor grounds. Thanks again!

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When piggybacking and turning off the pull-up resistor, does that affect the calibration of the sensor? I would imagine you need to know what the OEM pullup resistor is to then recalibrate correctly, right?

I only ask as I have just jumped into this looking to see if I can piggyback a few sensors on my GM ECM so my factory cluster will work correctly. 

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Hi Curtis,

Sorry mate I’m not really the person to ask, my background is commercial aircraft wiring and flight simulation. I’m installing the piggy back ECU myself as I can’t handle what most auto-elec’s think is a good connection… I will be heading straight to the dyno for a trained technician to finish up software and calibration.

My basic understanding is the pull-up resistors are already in the factory wiring (or ECU) and need to be turned off in the piggyback ECU software for it to get the correct voltage.

Hopefully someone can be more helpful in answering your question.

Cheers 

Richy

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21 hours ago, CurtisL said:

When piggybacking and turning off the pull-up resistor, does that affect the calibration of the sensor? I would imagine you need to know what the OEM pullup resistor is to then recalibrate correctly, right?

I only ask as I have just jumped into this looking to see if I can piggyback a few sensors on my GM ECM so my factory cluster will work correctly. 

They way I would think you would do this is have some way to monitor what the factory ecu is reading for like coolant temp at the same time as reading in the analog voltage input on the link.  Datalogging via emperical analog sampling (pen and paper) the voltage the link reads with the corresponding oem ecu sensor reading.  Pullups are only typically going to be used on temperature sensors so I'm assuming that's what you're referring to.  You can plug in an OB2 reader for the OEM ecu reading or if you have a device like HP Tuners to read the readings live that would work as well.  With the data gathered you can generate a custom calibration, or you can possibly try built in calibrations and compare the readings between the link and your scan device of choice.

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Yeah Kris has it right, if you have the pull-up on in the Link then it will mess up the calibration in the factory ecu (which you probably cant adjust), so it is best to turn off the pull-up in the Link (or use an AN Volt input) so the OEM ecu still sees correct temps, then build your own cal Volts Vs temp in link using some known reference.  If the factory gauge actually has numbers on it you can use that, or OBD2 while monitoring from cold start to fully warmed up, or drop it in a cup of ice water, boiling water, room temp water for 3 calibration points.   

In @CurtisL case since he has a GM he could probably set the calibration to Delphi then try a few of the external pull-up values from the drop-down list until temp in Link matches temp on dash or whatever.  1k, 2k2 & 3k3 are the most common. 

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