2jz bosch dbw not responding

[tdgarage]

Hi guys, ive used this forum many times trying to figure out my isse with running a dbw and setting it up.

Currently running a 6 wire VQ35 pedal assembly, wired to the Efi Hardware dbw actuator (Bosch modified throttle body) 

My wiring goes as this:

Ex1: pins 1/3 from pedal merged with Pin 2 on dbw Sensor Ground

Ex2: pedal 4/6 to pin 3 on dbw +5V

Ex3: pin 4 on dbw Aux 9 +

Ex6: pin 5 main tps pedal

Ex7: pin 6 main tps dbw

Ex8: pin 5 sub tps dbw

B74 on ecu for Aux 10 pin 1 dbw -

B66 on ecu aux 2 pin 2 pedal

I haven't installed the intake yet, just wired the dbw and pedal to get it to work and make adjustments before fully installing everything.  

The pedal when pressed shows the values moving but dbw does not move. 

When i calibrate the dbw it moves and it says "calibration complete" but no movement when pedal is pressed. 

Also many engine sensors are not plugged in, nor is the itb tps. Just the ground strap, and dbw under the hood.

I followed the bosch wiring info off the "Help" drop down and set the PID according to that.

ethrottle.llgx

[Adamw]

What ecu do you have? 

You log shows at least 2 problems:

1. The e-throttle target is zero the whole time when moving the pedal.  So either you have all zeros in your target table or you dont have APS on an axis of the e-throttle target table.
2. The throttle is sitting at 100% the whole time, while target is zero.  The ecu is sending maximum "closing power" (negative duty cycle) trying to close it.  I would say most likely this means it is wired backwards.  Try changing the aux 9 active state to low.

A couple of other comments:

• Your post above says you have Aux 2 connected to the pedal?  Do you maybe mean AN Volt 2?
• Your E-throttle relay is set up as a lowside drive but active high, that is a very odd combination, if it is wired as per the help file it should need to be set to active low.  

 

[tdgarage]

Thank you for the help Adam,

Sorry my mistake yes, AN Volt 2 is what i meant.

I just want to clarify a couple of things. (pictured) I'm using the EFi hardware 2JZ ITB set up, with their DBW Actuator, with the separate TPS still connected to the butterfly shaft. 

I forgot about the table. I just went through and imputed the first row with 10-100, and now the throttle does react to the pedal. 

However now i'm running multiple other problems. It may be visible through the log. My APS goes to 100% but it seems like my throttle does not want to open all the way (pictured pedal all the way down, throttle plates at maybe 25%)

I've calibrated the pedal and it calibrated fine, but later throws a code that the sub and main are not tracking 

I've also calibrated the DBW actuator when disconnected from the ITB's and it moved the arm through all it's positions and completed the calibration. When watching the Sub and Main they were moving in opposite directions however.

When the Actuator arm gets connected to the ITB's and calibrated is selected, it gives an error for No Main tps. 
I'm sorry for all the confusion, i feel like i'm missing something that I'm not seeing. 

I feel like I've wired the actuator, and the pedal correctly according to the Help diagram. When the actuator is not connected to the ITB it goes through the calibration fine with full movement, but when the linkage is connected it throws a code for No Main TPS movement. 

Sorry i'm just confused. here are some pics and log.

PC Datalog - 2023-03-13 10;27;49 am.llgx

[Adamw]

Your sub and main sensors need to match all the time, it is not going to work using one sensor on the motor and one on the throttle shaft when you have a whole lot of linkages at different angles etc, the relationship between the two sensors will not be linear.  

It would be best to replace the sensor on the throttle bodies with a quality dual track sensor so it does both sub and main since those cheap Vishay/Variohm ones that come with most ITB's are shit.  Something like this:  https://www.efihardware.com/products/3150/dbw-contactless-throttle-position-sensor-variohm

If you really wanted to get it working asap without spending more money then you could use the sub and main sensors in the DBW motor, but this option is less safe as the ecu wont know what the throttle blades are doing if for example a linkage came loose.  

 

 

[tdgarage]

4 hours ago, Adamw said:

Your sub and main sensors need to match all the time, it is not going to work using one sensor on the motor and one on the throttle shaft when you have a whole lot of linkages at different angles etc, the relationship between the two sensors will not be linear.  

It would be best to replace the sensor on the throttle bodies with a quality dual track sensor so it does both sub and main since those cheap Vishay/Variohm ones that come with most ITB's are shit.  Something like this:  https://www.efihardware.com/products/3150/dbw-contactless-throttle-position-sensor-variohm

If you really wanted to get it working asap without spending more money then you could use the sub and main sensors in the DBW motor, but this option is less safe as the ecu wont know what the throttle blades are doing if for example a linkage came loose.  

 

 

Thank you for the help Adam. 

To update. I figured out a problem after testing different situations. 

ended up I took lightened the spring load on the ITB's, which allowed the actuator to fully open the throttles.

It seems safe to use a TPS on the ITB in case something does happen. 

Iam now getting the code 77, but after reading the other posts and your replies, i'll check the connector and wiring to make sure it's not the pedal sensor.