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2JZGE VVTI initial startup troubleshooting


Darrow

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Update 3:

Most likely the last update on this thread. Car is running fine while it is parked. Have not taken it on the road. Still need to put the rest of the car back together.

The company I purchased the G4X from loaded a base map and there was a 3000 rpm lockout. The ~2500 rpm breakup was a rev limit. Changed to 6500 and all is well.

Update 2:

Adjusted master fuel and that fixed the rough idle. Engine does die when releasing the throttle from ~2000rpm.

Current issue: None

Getting breakup ~2500rpm. Hard to tell since I release the throttle as soon as it happens. 

Logfile: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-jvSlj1MLFjoEy3Dku13zS0xCNOeK5fz/view?usp=sharing

I almost feel I can take it on the street for a gentle drive. 

 

 

Hello,

Just got done with getting the engine up and running albeit poorly. I need to work through a few more issues that I am hoping I can get some help with. 

First thing is that I am new to Link and not that familiar with going through the data to spot issues. Any tips on that are always appreciated. If anyone has any tips on creating display views in PC Link please let me know.

Issues I am having: (Power is via a Razor PDM)

1) Fixed: Neither my wired in or CAN Lambda sensor is showing a reading. The wired in sensor is throwing a code 60 and CAN Lambda is silent. CAN lambda is wired in with the ecu, coils, injectors and e-throttle, Lambda 1 and has a capacitor across +12v and ground. Update 1: CAN Lambda works. I didn't fully set it up.

2) Fixed: The engine runs rough similar to a misfire. Tailpipe smells a little rich but without Lambda I cannot validate. Update 2: Was running way lean. Changed master fuel from 10 to 15.

3) Fixed: Engine initially goes up to 1300 rpm on start then tails off to an rpm significantly below the idle rpm setpoint. Revving the engine up smooths out the engine a little then starts to run rough after a few seconds. Update 1: Changed idle control to closed loop and idle now holds to table values.

4) Fixed: On the longer logfile there is a bit where depressing the brake kills the engine. I disconnected my brake trigger from the cruise control DI pin and depressing the brakes no longer kills the engine. Since this is a DI I wouldn't think this would cause the engine to die. Update 1: Had brake tied to stop switch instead of stop nc. Changed to stop nc.

5) Fixed: Update 1: Engine dies when giving quick throttle blip/hold higher RPM and then release throttle. Update 2: Changed master fuel from 10 to 15.

6) Fixed: Hunting idle. Update 2.5: Changed from closed loop idle to open loop idle.  

Any help is appreciated. Thank you in advance. 

Extra info:

Base timing and timing offset has been set. Timing creep at higher rpm has not been performed due to running issues 

E-Throttle has been calibrated and actuates as expected when manually operated

Injectors and coils tested for correct wiring

Injectors are 550cc Coils are R35 coils

 

Latest ecu file attached for anyone interested. 

2023-08-05 Update 3.pclx

Edited by Darrow
Update 3
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40 minutes ago, Darrow said:

1) Neither my wired in or CAN Lambda sensor is showing a reading. The wired in sensor is throwing a code 60 and CAN Lambda is silent. CAN lambda is wired in with the ecu, coils, injectors and e-throttle, Lambda 1 and has a capacitor across +12v and ground.

Your CAN Lambda hasn't been configured under CAN -> CAN Setup.

I'm not sure there's a point to putting a cap between 12v and ground. I would double check the wiring for the LSU4.9 because the ECU controller seems to just be reporting a problem.

47 minutes ago, Darrow said:

4) On the longer logfile there is a bit where depressing the brake kills the engine. I disconnected my brake trigger from the cruise control DI pin and depressing the brakes no longer kills the engine. Since this is a DI I wouldn't think this would cause the engine to die.

You've got DI5 as "Stop Switch". This isn't supposed to be wired to your brake pedal switch; this is a engine kill switch.
At no point does DI7 go high in this log (the Input assigned to "Brake NC")

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Derek, Thanks for pointing that out. I thought I followed the instructions all the way but obvious I didn't

Things are improving. Brakes no longer kill engine, Changed idle control to closed loop, Lambda 2 (CAN Lambda) now has values. 

Continued issues: Still runs rough. Lambda 1 has code 60. Might be a day or two before I can get time to verify wiring.

New issue:

-Now that I have stable idle I can rev the engine. Log file shows a couple of slow revs that have a sluggish response and then a quick rev that kills the engine. Edit: Its actually a hold at ~2000 rpm then release throttle that killed the engine. 

-Lambda 2 will occasionally flash red on the Runtime Values - Fuel screen. Not sure if this means anything. Again, not familiar with sorting through all the data. 

 

New log and updated tune file attached.

2023-08-02 Update 1.pclx PC Datalog - Idle fixed Throttle blip kills engine 2023-08-2 8;06;06 pm.llgx

Edited by Darrow
clarify
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12 minutes ago, Darrow said:

-Now that I have stable idle I can rev the engine. Log file shows a couple of slow revs that have a sluggish response and then a quick rev that kills the engine. 

-Lambda 2 will occasionally flash red on the Runtime Values - Fuel screen. Not sure if this means anything. Again, not familiar with sorting through all the data. 

You're going very lean when revving; around 2.600 lambda (39:1 AFR) so your fuel map is wayyyy off. I think theres something in the first start part of the help file that tells you to adjust your master fuel to scale the fueling.

As for the Lambda2 flashing red - that's just when it exceeds the low or high limits that have been assigned to that particular parameter:

image.png.06069818c8d1bbe2d06b71ac02b26735.png

Note that these arent saved inside your tune file, but rather on your "Layout" configuration for PC Link.
So the values that appear for me are the ones I use and have set on my Laptop.

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Derek, Really appreciate the help. 

I knew red wasn't good but it wasn't tripping the fault counter but then I did look at the fault log for this run. Still getting used to the PCLink interface. 

I will look into the fueling table. I am using a base map from the business that sold it to me but did an adjustment due to the different injectors (~250cc to 550cc) I am using. Hoping I can move past the wiring gremlins and move on to tuning. Just need the engine tuned enough to drive it to get it tuned on a dyno.  

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13 minutes ago, Darrow said:

I will look into the fueling table.

Adjust the master fuel to get it somewhere in the ballpark, not the fuel table.  I would expect a master more like 15ms for 550cc injectors.  Your injector dead time of 0.5s is unlikely correct either.  

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Adam. Thanks.

Attached is the 'generic' data sheet on the injectors I have. Since the dead time moves with battery voltage and pressure I used this chart. On the chart I believe it is battery offset that is the injector dead time. 12v and 4bar is ~.8s so with ~13v I set it to .5s. Definitely let me know if I am off base on that but that was my logic. 

I will still adjust as part of the larger fuel picture.

22S-XX-0550-XX_Injector_Characterization_Summary.pdf

Edited by Darrow
Clarity
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20 hours ago, Adamw said:

Adjust the master fuel to get it somewhere in the ballpark, not the fuel table.  I would expect a master more like 15ms for 550cc injectors.  Your injector dead time of 0.5s is unlikely correct either.  

Adam, you are spot on. Changed the master to 15ms and smoothed out the idle. I increased the dead time and nothing really changed. Changed the table and added about .25s to each spot from 10v to 16v.

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Things are getting better. Able to get it started and have a smooth idle. 

Now working to fix a sputter at ~2500 rpm. I believe it may just be a lean condition. Could be timing. Not really sure. This is what I don't know about tuning and I am looking to learn. Tomorrow I will get a bit more time to play around and adjust fuel. I am hesitant to play around with timing much at all. I do have a couple of bosh knock sensors but not sure how much faith I can put in those. 

Anyway. I am running out of upload space here so g-drive links will be used. I really appreciate the help is getting my project road going. 

 

Log file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-jvSlj1MLFjoEy3Dku13zS0xCNOeK5fz/view?usp=sharing

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