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QUESTIONS? REGUARDING WIRING FOR HVLC+ PLUG IN FOR VL


vlctjesse

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Hi fellow link users, i have some questions about the wiring pin-out for a g4+ plug in unit for my vl calais with factory rb30et.

the car was factory fitted auto, which is no longer the case. as i have gone fully manualised auto.

the car has been running nistune for the last 9 or so yrs, and was running ok on that setup.

 so let me cut to the chase. when i plug the link into the factory harness, im getting no power to the ecu, the only thing that happens when i switch to ignition is the fuel pump primes non stop.

iv looked at the factory ecu pin-out and found that pin 6 is a self shut off, which when grounded the ecu power relay is triggered, and the ecu powers up regardless of the ignition switch position.

im curious why there's a few pins eg; #6,3 on the factory pin-out which don't seem to exist on the link pin-out diagram.

here are the diagrams iv been using, i also have a full harness diagram, if needed?

im curious if there's anyone one who has been through this and might have some pointers, i have a fair understanding of mechanical and a electrical tho i could really use some guidance :).

im hoping to get this unit operating as it should,before i drop  it to the tuners!

Screenshot 2023-12-18 at 19-06-54 vol 6 complete.PDF.png

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The G4X manuals have more detailed pinouts than the G4+ which can be useful when diagnosing issues.

Looking at the Link schematic there is an ignition switch input on pin 34 which triggers the ECCS Relay output on pin 6. Can you confirm whether or not there is 12V at pin 34 (Ignition switch) when you turn the key on?

Capture.PNG

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yes i have 12v to pin 34, with the key on .

im using the g4+ extreme base-map.

is there anything i might need to change in the software setup?

sorry if that sound silly, this has been fondling my brain for a while LOL

please let me know, if there's any specific info you might need

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Have you just purchased this ecu?  That ecu serial number was originally unlocked in 2018, it has come back to us for repair in 2021 with reverse polarity damage, several components fried and a track burnt through.  It was repaired and tested as all functional back then.  

If there is 12V on pin 34 but pin 6 is not grounded then it sounds like the power circuit has been damaged again, it will need to come back to Link for inspection and repair.   Contact [email protected].

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i purchased the ecu back in 2022, the guy i bought it off mentioned that it had been unlocked . with no mention of the ecu being faulty.

all i was told is it came out of a patrol which was being sold, and he pulled the ecu and put a factory turbo ecu back in. now im suspicious why the bloke i bought it off was selling the ecu and the car separately ,sounds like he may have known there was an issue all along :angry::(

i appriciate the info.

so , what causes that kind of damage. cause if im to get this unit repaired i wanna be sure there no chance of having a repeat of this problem.

what was the cost for the previous repair if you don't mind sharing that info, im just trying to get an idea as im already 1500 out of pocket 

Edit; so I figured things couldn't get any worse so I decided to pop the back cover of the housing to take a look, and well, it all makes sense now there's a a burnt trace from pin 6 to the board.

Now I understand why the led was flickering when I first plugged the unit in, the trace was only holding on by a tread.

 

 

17029887236727152340863278722299.jpg

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The service notes say it was reverse battery voltage damage.  The large barrel-shaped TVS diode and the main FET that is just on the back side of that damaged track you show was fried and the main 14V track which goes to pin 35 & 27 was burnt.  That track was replaced with a wire.  That was a NZD150 repair which is our minimum service charge that most common repairs will fall under.  

I guess it is possible that burnt track you now have was actually mostly damaged in the original incident but remained hidden under the solder mask and still had a weak connection that passed our test but has since heated up with higher loads in the car.  Its hard to imagine that not being obvious though.

 

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im jumping for joy ,having found this. i think my hair loss is cured:lol:.

thank you for the well detailed history of the unit.

finally i can start putting my car back together, i was starting to get lost in the void trying to find a fault that was right under my nose the whole time.

thank you very much Adam you've restored my faith in humanity :P

have a merry Christmas and a happy new year!

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Hi Adam ,one more question.

 

I'm curious to know about the 

Vbsemi pn06l13 mosfet which is part of that circuit.

I work with an electronics tech, who repairs circuit boards, he was able to repair the burnt trace.

He mentioned the mosfet was possibly knocked out too, he said to test the unit in the car to test the function, as I have done.

And the unit powers up now, but does so with the key in the off position 

 

I'd like to know if there's a mosfet which is interchangeable with the one stated above as they seem to be a hard item to find, can you please let me know if there's another option which will be suitable 

 I have a data sheet for the one on the board if need be 

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