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Request for review of start settings for BMW M62 V8 engine


Aaron K

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Hi all, I was hoping someone could look over my configuration and log files to see what I might not have setup right. I haven't got the car started yet. Here are a few key details:

Engine: BMW M62TUB44 (4.4L V8, dual intake VVT, electronic throttle body, VR crank sensor, dual hall effect cam sensors

Ignition: Using Audi 4 pin coils (I believe these are the R8 coils - same red top ones I saw posted here).

Trigger 1 is the crank, Trigger 2 is the intake cam sensor on the first bank (cyl 1-4). I haven't tried using the other cam sensor yet, I assumed it was supposed to be the first bank. The other is hooked to a digital input, but I currently have the VANOS solenoids disconnected so was waiting on getting that going.

I know the fuel tables aren't probably right yet, but it puffs a bit when started but no real combustion to speak of. Fuel pressure looks good, plugs ended up wet actually. Did a spark test on #5 and it seems fairly strong. I did ignition tests on 1-8 and could hear them operating (but haven't done the spark plug test on all yet).

So I suspect the base timing is way off. I tried the calibrate timing option to adjust the offset during cranking, but not much change. I tried a few different values, but nothing exhaustive.

Side question: are those values updated in real time when you're running/cranking the engine?

I'm still a bit unsure on the cam sensor polarity, not a lot of previous runs with standalone on this engine.

Thanks

 

 

BMW_E24_M62.pclx PC Datalog - 2024-01-16 2;07;51 pm.llgx second config.llgx

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4 hours ago, Aaron K said:

Side question: are those values updated in real time when you're running/cranking the engine

Yes, as soon as you press enter after changing the value in the cell.

4 hours ago, Aaron K said:

So I suspect the base timing is way off. I tried the calibrate timing option to adjust the offset during cranking, but not much change. I tried a few different values, but nothing exhaustive.

Have you had a timing light on it while cranking and could you see the timing light flashing at the correct point on the crank? Don't forget the actual offset could be 360deg out from the visually correct point you find as you can't see which half of the cycle it is.

4 hours ago, Aaron K said:

I'm still a bit unsure on the cam sensor polarity, not a lot of previous runs with standalone on this engine

A trigger scope while cranking will show this

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11 hours ago, Vaughan said:

Yes, as soon as you press enter after changing the value in the cell.

Have you had a timing light on it while cranking and could you see the timing light flashing at the correct point on the crank? Don't forget the actual offset could be 360deg out from the visually correct point you find as you can't see which half of the cycle it is.

A trigger scope while cranking will show this

To make sure were talking about the same thing, this is the calibrate dialog box where you can adjust the fixed based timing and offset? I was entering new values into those fields, but I don't think they were changing anything. I was entering one, then clicking into the other field to adjust it. Maybe this was as simple as not hitting enter after typing in the value?

I tried this just now offline, and hitting enter did turn the field blue, so I was definitely missing that step. My suggestion might be to add a Set button and/or also show the current value to the left of the new value so it's clear if it's being changed or not. I think being a software engineer made me not want to hit enter because that usually just closes dialog boxes. Easy fix though!

I'll get a timing light on it next, hopefully mine will pick up the low voltage trigger going into the coil.

As far as edges, makes sense to look at the trigger scope for falling or rising. I think what I'm currently confused about is which pulse is the one that matters. See below for a picture of the wheel on the cams behind the hall effect sensor (shown on the bottom). Every rotation will see 4 pulses. For my complete understanding, I'm wondering how the ECU knows which one to pick? The stock ECU would need to look for a pattern and not just a single pulse.

Appreciate the support!

1-494.jpg

I closely RTFM that page and it does say to hit enter, so that's my fault. Maybe a UI change will help anyway.

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It looks like this setup would require the "Cam Pulse Window" sync mode. Hopefully someone has a previous idea on the window length to help some trouble shooting? It looks like the VVT cam swing can impact this window size as well.

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4 hours ago, Aaron K said:

To make sure were talking about the same thing, this is the calibrate dialog box where you can adjust the fixed based timing and offset? I was entering new values into those fields, but I don't think they were changing anything. I was entering one, then clicking into the other field to adjust it. Maybe this was as simple as not hitting enter after typing in the value?

yes that box, you need to hit enter after changing the value, it will go blue when you do this.

4 hours ago, Aaron K said:

I'll get a timing light on it next, hopefully mine will pick up the low voltage trigger going into the coil.

I would highly recommend putting an ignition lead between the coil on plug and the spark plug and putting your clamp over that.

4 hours ago, Aaron K said:

It looks like this setup would require the "Cam Pulse Window" sync mode. Hopefully someone has a previous idea on the window length to help some trouble shooting? It looks like the VVT cam swing can impact this window size as well.

A trigger scope with the cams at their rest position and knowledge of how far the cams move would provide enough info to setup the CAM pulse window.

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M62 has a hall cam sensor and cam level sync mode will work with that cam pattern since it has a high and low 180deg apart.  Assuming this "M62" scope from google matches yours and the cam was at "home" during this capture, you would perform the sync test on sync tooth 1.  All the ecu does is checks if the cam level is high or low at the sync tooth.  Polarity or rising/falling is irrelevant.  The cam can advance about 70 deg without messing up sync in this example, up to 140deg if you really needed it by choosing the right sync tooth.  

4R8ou8B.png

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

It does appear it starts up fine with either Cam Level or Window sync mode. I left it in Cam Level mode, but haven't got to the VVT yet.

For the record / future searches, I got this running smoothly and timing accurate to around a degree or two with a Trigger Offset of -61.

Appreciate the review and help getting this going!

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