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Advice on getting Ford Coyote Gen 3 Started


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I have set up my Gen3 coyote engine to run on link g4 extreme

I have deleted direct injection 

I installed gen 2 throttle and accelerator pedal 

Gen 1 alternator

the main differences I see is my crankshaft sensor is a hall effect sensor (which i have changed settings for) 

and when cranking it sees rpm signal

I still have all vvti components on engine and wired up correct. 

I have tested all outputs and all ignition and fuel system, and everything is working. 


However no matter what I try the car doesnt even try to fire up.

Is there a tuner anyone suggests I could pay to help set it up? I am assuming I am the first to ever get a link on a gen3? as everyone I call says they have no idea. 

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Where are you located?

Based on many other first-start threads here is the first request:

If you can take a trigger scope while cranking and a PCLink log of an attempted start that should show us what it is happening.

If you pull a spark plug, connect the coil and ground the plug to the engine, do you get a spark when cranking?

Realize that it's now the weekend in NZ, so you might not get a support response for a day or so.

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Attach a copy of your tune and a log of it cranking.  A trigger scope would be helpful too. 

The Gen 3 has a 60-2 crank wheel Vs 36-1 on the gen 2 so it is not just a change to a hall sensor.  The factory coils are "dumb coils" so I assume you have added ignitors or swapped to smart coils? 

I have set up one Gen 3 for another user but it was a race engine with the VVT "deleted" so although the trigger set-up I have from that should get you running it will probably not allow the full range of VVT movement.  The intake VVT on the coyote is quite complex as it can both retard and advance from the "start-up lock position" with a total range of something like 70deg.   We can create a dedicated trigger mode for it to support full VVT range if we need to, but get it running first.  I will attach a pic below showing that set-up and a brief explanation for your interest anyhow.  I dont know what offset was required, you will need to confirm that with a timing light.




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thank you for the trigger setup


so 2 things, when i have my crankshaft sensor set to pull up off, the car doesn't read rpm

when i turned pull up on i actually got the car to fire and run for 20 seconds, than it shut off and doesn't want to run at all after.

i have attached to the 2 requested logs.

Spark and fuel all are working correct (i have Haltech ignitor controlling the coils)

the car ran almost like stock for the 20 seconds it ran, however now it has gone back to not doing anything all over?

cranktest.llgx PC Datalog - 2024-02-4 3;04;03 pm.llgx

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Out of curiosity, how did you delete the DI injectors? I know that when Papadakis Racing deleted the DI system on their Supra B58 engine but left the direct injectors in place, it melted an injector on the dyno. Do you have some kind of slug installed in place of the DI injector?

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That's interesting. I know Papadakis made interference-fit slugs, then heated the head and chilled the slugs to press them in place. The Budget Billet stuff looks like they're still using a (rubber?) seal between the shaft and the head, and the plug is retained by the small bracket and a bolt in the original injector retainer bolt hole. Papadakis assumed the fuel flowing through the injector cooled it off which is why the original melted. I didn't know if an aluminum plug with a rubber seal (no direct heat transfer away from the plug) would survive, but it must work for these guys. It's also probably worth pointing out that his injector didn't fail until he was pushing near 1000hp on the dyno, so cylinder pressures and temperatures would have been huge compared to a mostly stock NA engine.

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