David Ferguson

All this seems to be leading to the manifold pressure reference going to the FPR is not really manifold pressure (i.e. it's restricted, leaking under boost, or similar). Or the Fuel Pressure Regulator isn't plumbed correctly, or has a leak itself.

The Injector Outputs are assumed to be connected to injectors. Use Fuel->Fuel Setup->Injector Test to confirm. Injector Configuration happens in Fuel->Fuel Setup->Injector Setup->Injector Setup (Deadtimes, flow rate, etc)

You should use the output from the ECU power relay (downstream of any fuse) to provide the positive trigger voltage for the Ignition and Fuel Pump relays. That way, when the ECU has no power, the relays can't be turned on.

What is the value of the run time variable "MAP Limit"? The Engine Protection MAP Limit table prevents overboost, by cutting fuel and spark if the boost exceeds the limit.

Voltage drops are due to current draw. If it's not the fuel pump, then it's some other consumer (coils, injectors, fans, pumps). Use your Picoscope to figure out which one is going up in current as the engine speed increases.

I don't know, but one picture is for a 5-pin connector, and the other is a 6-pin connector. I would not expect the pinouts to be compatible, since the number of pins isn't the same.

I would suggest you log every time the engine is running. so RPM above 100, MAP above 0, TPS above 0, Off Delay 0.

Have you check the manifold for leaks? A missing /broken vacuum hose or cap will cause this. I bet it will keep running even if you completely seal the throttle with your hand over it.

I would use a Bosch 3-channel Ignitor like this: https://www.efihardware.com/products/374/igniter-triple-channel-HUCO

A good source for rubber isolation mounts is McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/rubber-isolators/

Or you could just put it on jackstands and run it in gear...

Where are you located? Based on many other first-start threads here is the first request: If you can take a trigger scope while cranking and a PCLink log of an attempted start that should show us what it is happening. If you pull a spark plug, connect the coil and ground the plug to the engine, do you get a spark when cranking? Realize that it's now the weekend in NZ, so you might not get a support response for a day or so.

A classic AiM issue is that a config created with an old version of RaceStudio does not get updated with the firmeware and/or software. If something just doesn't seem to be behaving correctly, sometimes you just need to try creating a new config from scratch, with the ECU protocol. Just make a minimal one to test. Does it show the right values in the "live measures" tab when you are online, then you know it will work when you configure that for the display. Or if not, you how have a solid bug to report.

I think you'll find maximum forward acceleration with about 8-10% slip.

So it's a dry sump setup? Perhaps you need to just run a higher oil level. If you are still using the OEM oil pump, make sure the pressure relief is working properly. If it's worn out the oil pressure can drop at higher revs.

Have you removed the spark plugs so the engine can turn over faster? That often helps getting that initial oil pressure following a rebuild.

Not sure you can do wasted spark on a 3 cylinder...

Have you verified the 10 deg timing with a timing light? Are you sure the TDC mark is correct? Have you fitted fresh plugs, or at least checked to see if they are fouled. Have you tried adding more fuel?

yes that's correct. The error being reported is that the there is excessive pump current, so the wiring to the sensing element is drawing more current than expected -- bad sensor, or wiring shorted intermittently, I think those are the two choices. I just suggest you check the wiring carefully before throwing a new sensor at it.

It could indicate a wiring fault -- make sure you don't have a cable to the sensor that had rubbed against the chassis, or melted on an exhaust pipe.

Have you made sure the correct CAN bus and matching baud rate are setup in the Link ECU? See the first post for what the setting should be (except for the CAN ID of 1000 decimal to match the C127 CAN template).

As an alternative to a strain gauge: I have used a position sensor (like a linear pot or a high resolution rotary pot). Attach this to the gear lever, and calibrate like a strain gauge. Above a certain voltage is one direction, and below a different voltage is the other direction. I don't believe you can use the gear position sensor, as this would need to have two different voltage values for each gear that could go up or down.

Generally speaking, more ignition advance will lower EGT temps. Usually more fuel will lower EGT temps, but this can interact with ignition timing. You are correct that the individual cylinder trims are the way to find this out. Since you can monitor this live, I would make changes and see what happens. There is a lot info on the internet about how small plane pilots find the ideal mixture for a given cruise conditions using EGTs, they tune for maximum EGT, then lean the mixture from there. Try this Google search if you have time: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-e&q=Tuning+mixture+with+EGT Where individual EGT really shine is when the engine isn't running right (misfires, etc). You can immediately find the cylinder that is missing with the EGT as it will be colder from the lack of combustion.

Is there any chance the cam was installed 180 degrees out of phase? This would fire your ignition on the exhaust stroke. Sometimes this makes a pop in the exhaust, but often it just silently doesn't have any compression so it won't run.

The critical difference between those two limiter settings, is the "Limit Ctrl Range" and "Hard Limit Activation". Consider trying 300/100 instead of 50/0 and see how that feels. You might also find the "Start Cut (TPS 100)" will affect the feel as well.