alexlspec Posted February 2 Report Share Posted February 2 I have set up my Gen3 coyote engine to run on link g4 extreme I have deleted direct injection I installed gen 2 throttle and accelerator pedal Gen 1 alternator the main differences I see is my crankshaft sensor is a hall effect sensor (which i have changed settings for) and when cranking it sees rpm signal I still have all vvti components on engine and wired up correct. I have tested all outputs and all ignition and fuel system, and everything is working. However no matter what I try the car doesnt even try to fire up. Is there a tuner anyone suggests I could pay to help set it up? I am assuming I am the first to ever get a link on a gen3? as everyone I call says they have no idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ferguson Posted February 2 Report Share Posted February 2 Where are you located? Based on many other first-start threads here is the first request: If you can take a trigger scope while cranking and a PCLink log of an attempted start that should show us what it is happening. If you pull a spark plug, connect the coil and ground the plug to the engine, do you get a spark when cranking? Realize that it's now the weekend in NZ, so you might not get a support response for a day or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted February 4 Report Share Posted February 4 Attach a copy of your tune and a log of it cranking. A trigger scope would be helpful too. The Gen 3 has a 60-2 crank wheel Vs 36-1 on the gen 2 so it is not just a change to a hall sensor. The factory coils are "dumb coils" so I assume you have added ignitors or swapped to smart coils? I have set up one Gen 3 for another user but it was a race engine with the VVT "deleted" so although the trigger set-up I have from that should get you running it will probably not allow the full range of VVT movement. The intake VVT on the coyote is quite complex as it can both retard and advance from the "start-up lock position" with a total range of something like 70deg. We can create a dedicated trigger mode for it to support full VVT range if we need to, but get it running first. I will attach a pic below showing that set-up and a brief explanation for your interest anyhow. I dont know what offset was required, you will need to confirm that with a timing light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexlspec Posted February 4 Author Report Share Posted February 4 thank you for the trigger setup so 2 things, when i have my crankshaft sensor set to pull up off, the car doesn't read rpm when i turned pull up on i actually got the car to fire and run for 20 seconds, than it shut off and doesn't want to run at all after. i have attached to the 2 requested logs. Spark and fuel all are working correct (i have Haltech ignitor controlling the coils) the car ran almost like stock for the 20 seconds it ran, however now it has gone back to not doing anything all over? cranktest.llgx PC Datalog - 2024-02-4 3;04;03 pm.llgx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexlspec Posted February 4 Author Report Share Posted February 4 attached is tune file (forgot) 2020mustanglink.pclx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laminar Posted February 5 Report Share Posted February 5 Out of curiosity, how did you delete the DI injectors? I know that when Papadakis Racing deleted the DI system on their Supra B58 engine but left the direct injectors in place, it melted an injector on the dyno. Do you have some kind of slug installed in place of the DI injector? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexlspec Posted February 5 Author Report Share Posted February 5 I found someone who made billet injector plugs to replace the DI injectors and a block off plate for the HPFP (similar to how papadakis did it) https://budgetbillet.com/products/18-coyote-mustang-f150-di-delete-kit David Ferguson 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laminar Posted February 6 Report Share Posted February 6 That's interesting. I know Papadakis made interference-fit slugs, then heated the head and chilled the slugs to press them in place. The Budget Billet stuff looks like they're still using a (rubber?) seal between the shaft and the head, and the plug is retained by the small bracket and a bolt in the original injector retainer bolt hole. Papadakis assumed the fuel flowing through the injector cooled it off which is why the original melted. I didn't know if an aluminum plug with a rubber seal (no direct heat transfer away from the plug) would survive, but it must work for these guys. It's also probably worth pointing out that his injector didn't fail until he was pushing near 1000hp on the dyno, so cylinder pressures and temperatures would have been huge compared to a mostly stock NA engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexlspec Posted February 6 Author Report Share Posted February 6 The rubber seal is for pressing up against the seat, what "seals" the combustion is Teflon rings on the end of the block off plugs (same type that are on direct injectors) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James.scatman Posted April 14 Report Share Posted April 14 Hi Alexlspec. I am following along as I am starting to order parts for my build and I like the link platform. How did you go getting it all working with the link and are you happy with the di delete kit ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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