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first start after resto.


greddy32

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Pin 45 is from the ignition switch, it should show close to battery voltage whenever the ignition switch is on.  If it drops below about 7.5V the ECCS relay will drop out.  Note on a BNR32 this wire also supplies the fuel pump, oxy probes, idle valve, AC relay, boost valve & EGT sensor, so it is a fairly overloaded circuit, not uncommon to see low voltage on it as the ignition switch wears and all the connections along the way get more resistance with age.

OIl01DX.png 

 

21 hours ago, greddy32 said:

It doesn't show any voltage on 45 while cranking or ever for that matter. 1 lead on 49 the other on 45 while testing

Should be measuring between ground and 45.  

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So I'll retest test with 45 and ground and let you know what it says.. if it's low whats the solution? A new ignition barrel? Also would running all ecu grounds directly to a batt(-) stud help at all?

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Confirm if that is the issue first.  Will need to do a bit more digging to suggest the best solution.  For example if the fuel pump is still supplied by the ignition switch it would probably be best to change the fuel pump supply which will take a lot of load off that circuit - But that may already done for all I know.  

So at this stage Im still trying to confirm if your issue is on the triggering side of the ECCS relay or on the high power side or something like a ground issue.  

1 hour ago, greddy32 said:

Also would running all ecu grounds directly to a batt(-) stud help at all?

I dont remember what the grounding scheme is like on the GTR but generally older Nissans main ground point is on the engine as some devices including the CAS and ignitor ground through their body/mounting.  Changing to batt -ve wouldnt be recommended if this is the case.  

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Okay my son is asleep for the night so I won't be able to test any cranking until tomorrow. To your example, my fuel pump is getting 12v triggered from the trunk, it's reloomed but I'm assuming it's the circuit you're referring to.  Where would I grab 12v from thats not on the same ignition switch?

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That sounds a bit borderline considering a multimeter has quite a low update rate.  Just reading back at some of your earlier posts in this thread, you mentioned you had done a test by grounding pin 16 with a bit of welding wire or similar - did the ecu stay connected when cranking when you done that?    

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Hmm, thats odd.  Can you try setting up ecu logging like below, with just engine speed and batt voltage logged at 100Hz, no control conditions so it just logs all the time the ecu is on.  Then do a couple of cranks and download the log.  That will at least confirm it is shutting off rather than just a USB issue and if it is shutting off it may capture what was happening to battery voltage just before that point. 

o4VLkbg.png 

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