jimmylemon Posted April 25, 2024 Report Posted April 25, 2024 I want to swap to a 12-1 ross balancer away from my existing ross 36-2. Can someone tell me the steps involved in making this change, I just want to get it running again with the 12-1. Assume I know nothing about how to do this. Cheers. Quote
Adamw Posted April 25, 2024 Report Posted April 25, 2024 You would just need to change the tooth count setting to 12 and the missing teeth setting to 1, then re-set base timing. Why would you change from the 36-2 though? Quote
jimmylemon Posted April 29, 2024 Author Report Posted April 29, 2024 I have tried just about everything suggested by people to stop it trigger faulting and I just can't stop it doing it. Absolutely infuriating and this is the only thing I have left now. Quote
Adamw Posted April 29, 2024 Report Posted April 29, 2024 I just looked back at your other posts to understand what you have now. I would generally say reducing tooth count is not going to solve a trigger error - a trigger error just means the ecu didn't receive the tooth count that it expected to. So either an extra "tooth" has been generated by ignition noise or similar, or a tooth has been missed due to a sensor/wheel/tooth/airgap compatibility issue. Looking at pics of your trigger wheel in your older post, it does have unusually sharp teeth for a hall effect sensor, so there is a tiny bit of doubt in the back of my mind that the sensor may not always be happy with that. Does the 12-1 wheel have bigger teeth? In your other post you mention the trigger error occurs during a hard launch, is that still the case? Does crankshaft end float look normal? Quote
jimmylemon Posted April 29, 2024 Author Report Posted April 29, 2024 That's the 12-1. Always does it in high rpm, put a brand new sensor on the other night and same deal. End float within spec. Was only getting to 5k rpm the other night and it was doing it. Is there such thing as not enough gap? I'm just lost at this point I think it's been at least 3 years now I've been chasing it. It sucks because I do see people running the 36-2 without fault which is why I really saw that option as just silly, but what's left at this point. https://www.spoolimports.com/nissan-rb30-australia-metal-jacket-damper-with-integrated-trigger Quote
Adamw Posted April 29, 2024 Report Posted April 29, 2024 17 minutes ago, jimmylemon said: Is there such thing as not enough gap? There is, but that looks quite acceptable. The main thing that looks less than ideal on the 36-2 is the width/length of the teeth. The 12 tooth looks much better from that point of view. Note it is not 12-1, it is just 12T as supplied by the looks, unless you are going to grind one off. 12-1 would give slightly faster start-up on average compared to 12T. Quote
jimmylemon Posted April 29, 2024 Author Report Posted April 29, 2024 You are correct Adam sorry it is a 12t. Are you able to tell me more about how to reset base timing and what's involved? I'll take a look on YouTube later to see if there are some link videos on it, but just looking for how it's done, eg do I need a timing light? What domi need to do in the menu's? Quote
jimmylemon Posted May 8, 2024 Author Report Posted May 8, 2024 Hi Adam, can you give me some direction around resetting the base timing and how to do it? Is the below sort of the gist of it? Anything more I need to know? Quote
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