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Stuck in Ignition Cut


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I am fairly new to all of this and I have been fighting to get my car started for the first time after engine swap and putting in Link ECU. I am just trying to get it running well enough to limp onto a trailer but I am not getting any spark. In test mode they light no problem but I seem to be in 100% fuel cut and I can't figure out from what. I am getting trigger errors while cranking and am unsure if that is part of it or if I put in a safety somewhere that is keeping it down. Any help would be appreciated. 

K24Z3_06-19_2024_NoStart.pclx PC Datalog - 2024-06-19 7;52;54 pm.llgx

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Something isn't right in the trigger setup and I would lean towards it being that you are using the Honda K20 VTC trigger mode instead of the Honda K24 VCT mode, if you hit the little A->Z button in the top left of the Trigger Mode selection window it will show you them in alphabetical order so you can find the K24 mode quickly.

Capture.PNG

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Thanks for the reply Vaughan. I have tried switching to K24 and it’s pretty much the same. I thought the trigger scope looked a little cleaner in K20 so that’s where I left it. Either way it stacks errors. Unsure if I have them wired wrong. Worth a shot. Would trigger errors cut spark completely?

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That’s what I counted as well. No it’s a K24z3 which isn’t the same plate as the others. I did attempt to do a custom with a 60-2 but maybe didn’t configure it right. I wasn’t getting rpms so switched back. Maybe the trigger threshold or something. I’ll play with that again. Appreciate it. I didn’t think to look at if either k20 or k24 was a match. 

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I have helped a couple of others with K24Z engines.  Your trigger 2 pattern is not suitable as it has 4 evenly spaced teeth all the same size.  I suspect this is the wrong cam sensor.  The correct one should have 2 long teeth and 2 short teeth (actually 2 long, 1 short I think)

With the correct cam sensor wired to trig 2, then you can use multi-tooth missing, with cam level sync. We had to use a different sync tooth on the other 2 I looked at so we can confirm that once you have the correct sensor wired.  Try the trigger offset at -35 or 325.

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2 minutes ago, Adamw said:

I have helped a couple of others with K24Z engines.  Your trigger 2 pattern is not suitable as it has 4 evenly spaced teeth all the same size.  I suspect this is the wrong cam sensor.  The correct one should have 2 long teeth and 2 short teeth.   

With the correct cam sensor wired to trig 2, then you can use multi-tooth missing, with cam level sync. We had to use a different sync tooth on the other 2 I looked at so we can confirm that once you have the correct sensor wired.  Try the trigger offset at -35 or 325.

The whole K is basically stock. Cams and cam sensors. It is the intake cam in trigger 2 exhaust is on DI1 i think. Unless I’m misunderstanding something. I’ll take off the cover and take a look at the teeth. Appreciate the help. 

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Okay here is the scope with exhaust cam on trigger 2. Still getting some errors on trigger 1 after changing to multi/missing 60-2 but its much better. Would the remaining just be a filter?

Trigger Scope - 2024-06-19 9;52;19 pm.llgx

I just realized it came out of ignition cut and I am actually getting a dwell time. Thank you both for your help and patience.

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The trigger error is caused by your trigger 1 signal dropping out for a short time just as it starts cranking, but comes right after that. Maybe battery voltage drops low?  Is the sensor powered by 12V or 5V? 

For the sync tooth, if the exhaust cam has VVT I would go for about sync tooth 12, if it is fixed you can use sync tooth 1.

0ja1RD9.png 

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1 minute ago, Adamw said:

The trigger error is caused by your trigger 1 signal dropping out for a short time just as it starts cranking, but comes right after that. Maybe battery voltage drops low?  Is the sensor powered by 12V or 5V? 

For the sync tooth, if the exhaust cam has VVT I would go for about sync tooth 12, if it is fixed you can use sync tooth 1.

0ja1RD9.png 

The cams and crank are 12v. It’s off the fuse box, could go more directly to the battery if needed. Exhaust can does have VVT so I will give that a go. 

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