cozmic512 Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 Hello all, Not really new here, just not a frequent poster. Im having some trouble getting my car fired. I have no spark from the coil. The car was running, I removed the engine to install a new one. This is a 92 3SGTE in a celica alltrac. I run a plug and play box with the factory wiring. Nothing was really changed from when the first motor was removed. I tested all injectors and ignition and all are working. I have power to the coil and Ignition Control Module (ICM). From what I understand the ICM works off of ground, and the trigger wire has constant power where it should be pulsing. Is there possibly something with the distributor? I have no power at any of the distributor wires. I know the coil and ICM are good, I am leaning toward a ground problem since that is what is not being seen from the ICM to spark the coil. Any insight, ideas and help are greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone Cory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 Press F12 to open up the runtimes screen. Move to the triggers tab. Watch Trig 1, trig 2 and Eng speed while cranking. Trig 1 & 2 should turn green and say yes. Eng speed should show about 150-250 if all ok. Let us know if these look ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cozmic512 Posted November 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 Hey Adam, Thanks for the quick response. I will head to the shop and try this after work today and let you know the results. Regards, Cory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cozmic512 Posted November 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 Hi Adam, Ok when I ran the test, the engine speed never changed from 0. Trigger 1 and trigger 2 were no and stayed no. There was nothing at all, no flicker or hint of any, change. They are dead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 10, 2017 Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 That suggests there is no connection from the CAS/distributor to the ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cozmic512 Posted November 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 Thank you Adam. I have pulled the distributor and will be replacing and testing it this weekend. I have a couple to choose from. Ill let you know how I make out. Thanks again for the help and direction. Cory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cozmic512 Posted November 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 Hi Adam, I just wanted to give you an update. I verified that the distributor was spinning. The cap and rotor are new. I pulled the distributor and it appeared in good shape, no rust or metal filings. I did not have a suitable replacement, it was unfortunately damaged. I guess just from being in a storage box. So I have been trying to find specs for the distributor to test it but this has been difficult. Also, finding a new distributor has been difficult. You stated above there is no connection from the distributor to the ecu to let the ICM know to fire the coil. I have been looking at the wiring diagrams, and I cant determine if there should be power going to the distributor. I have checked all of the fuses and have nothing blown. Is there a relay that may be malfunctioning? I believe the distributor triggers the ground to fire the coil and is grounded by the engine obviously. I have checked all of those grounds. I am just trying to verify that the distributor is bad and Im not missing anything with the wiring. I believe for my car that the CAS is a part of the module in the distributor. Is this correct? Update* I was able to verify there is no crank angle sensor, there is a cam angle sensor in the distributor. I suspect this is the cause of the issue as you have stated. Still looking for distributor specs to test my current dist. On the hunt for a distributor, and for ohms checks to verify its condition. Have a great day. Cory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 20, 2017 Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 The distributor should have 3 pickups inside, One will be a 24 tooth wheel and then there will be 2 pickups looking at a single tooth. It would be rare for one to fail, Check that you have ground on to the common wire that is connected to all 3 sensors. And that you have continuity on the signal wires back to the ECU. If the ECU is Hold power mode or anti theft is active this will also stop triggers and RPM showing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cozmic512 Posted November 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 Hi Simon, There are 3 pickups in the distributor. One tall and 2 shorter ones on opposite sides from each other. They all appear in good condition. I figure you are right and they all failed, which is why I have no trigger signal and no engine rpm while cranking. I will look for the wires under the plastic protective cap on the distributor and determine and test the ground. I will also check continuity to the ecu, that is the distributor wires to pins 13 and 25 on the ecu. Just as another point of data, I checked continuity for ground in my factory wiring and it checked ok, I will also check the IGT signal and E1 pin to see if I have voltage there, but I believe it will since I have coil and ICM power.\ Thanks Simon! Ill get back as soon as I can test these out.. Cory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cozmic512 Posted November 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2017 Hello guys, It seems a distributor is very difficult to find. I am most likely going to have to send mine to get rebuilt. Before I send it out, I wanted to be clear on the testing procedure that you were talking about since you mentioned the failure of the distributor to be rare. I tested the continuity of the wires in the harness of the car and they are ok. I want to test the ground of the distributor and pickups but I am unsure how to test these and my results are inconclusive. Do you guys have a method for testing these? Thanks again. Trying to work through this issue Cory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 With ECU connected check the resistance between the ground wire at the distributor and the engine block it should be very low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cozmic512 Posted November 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 Thanks Simon! Will do, and I have a known distributor on its way... Cory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cozmic512 Posted December 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2017 Hi guys, I just wanted to provide an update. I received a used distributor this weekend. I checked and installed it, resistance was low btw dist and block and all other connections checked ok. I connected the computer and turned the key. When I did the Trigger 1 and 2 signals both turned green and it displayed and engine speed as the engine cranked which it hadn't done previously. The engine tried to fire, and rumbled a few times which I hadn't heard with the original distributor installed. I have a new battery and a few other connections and tweeks to make and it should be running in a couple of hours. Thank you Adam and Simon for your help and direction. You were on point with your diagnosis and super fast with responses. I appreciate the help and support greatly! regards, Cory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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