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KA24DE G4+ Atom ignition concern/question


AttitudeJosh
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Hey! Have a KA24DE stock motor does have a second hand(oh jeez) turbo kit, BOV, MSD Blaster coil, wiring harness, and a Link G4+ Atom has been put in place of the OEM ECU. All was off of another KA24DE that ran good(apparently). Have a decent base map to start off with but have a no start. Ignition test and injector tests both work without any issues. Have performed the trigger setup and base timing setup. Triggers both seem fine(state "yes") and have an RPM signal. It cranks fine just have an intermittent spark or no spark. All mechanical timing is spot on, ignition coil was swapped with a new one and so were the wires. Just curious about the ignition dwell, while logging can watch the dwell sitting around 2-3ms than at the same time spark cuts the dwell goes to 43.06ms(peak). Also I believe in the log will see a drop in voltage(potential cause?) Battery is getting weak(well....done), the cars been sitting in the customers garage for a while. Going to use a new battery once delivered here this afternoon. Wondering if this is being done by another correction I am overlooking or if its even worth paying attention to. Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Have attached a log of it cranking for 5-6 seconds to show the dwell time and a few other parameters. 

Cheers,

KA24DE startup-Intermitspark.llg

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Can you post a pclr file as well? Are the injectors and fuel system stock?

First suggestion would be have you tried giving it some throttle pedal while starting? Your MAP value drops by 5 or 6 kpa during cranking which is normal, but when you stop cranking, it's only very slowly recovering. Holding vacuum like this suggests that maybe your idle valve is blocked off or not working, and you're getting no air in at all.

If these are stock injectors, you're running pretty low pulse width for cold start. Do you have any kind of crank enrichment turned on? 

your battery is a bit low but given it can read steady RPM its more a "good idea" to replace it than a certain fix. 

That dwell thing is a bit weird. without a pclr file I cant really guess at why its doing that and neither 0.2ms or 40ms seem like numbers I would expect to see in most cases.

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Ok got a new battery in  it, dwell is better it's obvious with the voltage drop that low it would cause the dwell to scale out of scope. Did some more digging and found the igniter a prw-1 is fried. Testing the 5 volt circuit have a constant 7v causing an error to set possibly seen in the log. Wiring seems to be fine(again didn't build any of the harness or do any of the pinning). I don't no if that setting is correct in the link software but the Igniter 5v reference is hooked to the Analog 1 5v ref circuit in the Atom and it's function is set to NB Oxy, kind of thought that was odd. Still trying to find a little more information on that prw-1 igniter module . Yea the injector are stock SR20, I believe 370cc. The MAP(Link 2.5 bar) would make sense due to the fact I still cant get the throttle position reading(yes I have tried to assist by giving some throttle), may have something to do with that MAP reading, its wired in as a manual transmission configuration on the throttle position sensor. This is a real pain digging through someone else's setup!! I will grab some more files here and photos for yea.

 

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35 minutes ago, AttitudeJosh said:

Did some more digging and found the igniter a prw-1 is fried. Testing the 5 volt circuit have a constant 7v causing an error to set possibly seen in the log. Wiring seems to be fine(again didn't build any of the harness or do any of the pinning). I don't no if that setting is correct in the link software but the Igniter 5v reference is hooked to the Analog 1 5v ref circuit in the Atom and it's function is set to NB Oxy

Im not sure you have that right.  The ignitor has 3 wires.  1 is a gnd.  1 is the signal from the ecu (should be connected to ecu pin "ign 1".  it will be gnd with engine stopped, will pulse to ~6V when ecu is commanding a spark), the third is the signal to the coil -ve.

You can check the ignition system by using the ignition test function in the ecu, set ignition 1 test to "on" and you should see a spark on coming out of the coil lead (fit a sparkplug to it or create a small gap to jump to engine block or similar).

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