Adamw Posted November 9, 2018 Report Share Posted November 9, 2018 The only option our ecu's have for connecting via bluetooth would be using a bluetooth OBD2 dongle. Im not sure if there are some that are capable of pairing with two devices. OBD2 can also be quite slow. A better option maybe something like RaceCapture Track: https://www.autosportlabs.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/RaceCapture_Track-MK2-product-brief.pdf This is a device that connects to the ECU via CAN bus and then to your phone/tablet via wifi. The connected phone or tablet is used as your dash. At the same time if your phone/tablet has an internet connection (sim card), it also streams ECU and performance data out to a cloud-based website. Your mechanic in the pits can then use his phone/tablet/laptop in the pits and view all of that data. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4VmeLCKnfYQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Hill Posted November 9, 2018 Report Share Posted November 9, 2018 13 hours ago, FunJam said: Have been reading owners manual and playing with software for a couple of days now. Most of the questions I have found answers now and keep reading. More I read, more questions come out.. :-) Came in my mind, that if I would use Android/Tablet via Bluetooth, is it possible to use two tablets at same time? So one would be as dash and with one my mechanic could watch temperatures, pressures etc. in starting line. Off course connection for mechanics tab would be lost at some point of the track. More likely this would be just nice add/show off, but maybe it could be useful at some point.. Dash could also connected with wire if possible. I use USB over wifi for controlling my ECU remotely (I plan to install the Link ECU in the boot next to the engine so no long USB wires). I bought one of these from amazon which work great and are cheap :- https://www.gl-inet.com/products/gl-mt300n-v2/ The hardware then needs reflashing with the virtual USB software:- https://www.virtualhere.com/hardware Powered with a 12V micro USB adapter, this gives you USB over WiFi, which should be significantly longer range than bluetooth. The Virtual firmware is available on a few different platforms so it may be possible to extend the range even further. HTH, Richard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunJam Posted November 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2018 So, if I'm comparing Fury and Thunder, meaningful differences would be: -Thermocouples -> I need 4 so probably need to get EGT to can anyway -2 Lamdas -> I think need only one anyway - Sensor for g-force -> comes possibly with the dash or with the RaceCapture-device if I decide to get one. Is there any reason why I should choose Thunder over Fury? It has got more inputs and outputs, but Fury seems to have enough. Do I get more accurate info with Thunders own accelorometer? Do I get more precise ... something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 11, 2018 Report Share Posted November 11, 2018 On 11/10/2018 at 6:34 AM, FunJam said: Is there any reason why I should choose Thunder over Fury? It has got more inputs and outputs, but Fury seems to have enough. Do I get more accurate info with Thunders own accelorometer? Do I get more precise ... something? Yeah, I suspect the Thunder is probably overkill for what you are doing. It is also quite a large box to fit on a bike. On 11/10/2018 at 6:34 AM, FunJam said: Sensor for g-force -> comes possibly with the dash or with the RaceCapture-device if I decide to get one Or you can use a cheap analog accelerometer. The nice thing about the internal accelerometer in the Thunder is it has adjustable filtering (to filter out "vibration noise"), whereas if you connected one to an analog input you wouldn't have that - but you can use a resistor-capacitor filter to damp it down a little if needed. As you say though it is also possible your dash or logger may have that functionality. The only other feature that may be relevant on the Thunder is there are 4 digital inputs that are much higher speed than the Fury. The Fury DI's are limited to about 500Hz, the Thunder HS DI's about 6500Hz. This would probably only be relevant if you had a wheel speed sensor with a high tooth count. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunJam Posted November 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2018 And cheap analog accelorometer I can more easily assembly with some rubber bands etc. to damp some vibration. I think hall sensors would be the right ones to measure wheel speed. Don't know yet how we are going to build that, but I think we make tooth count to fit with sensor. One idea came in my mind thinking this.. It might be possible to measure lock-up actions with hall sensor. If lock-up "claws" would work as tooths, you could see RPMs where first set is out. And when second is coming along, it will douple the "tooths" (in 2-stage lock-up). There speed is fast, but its only informative, so I don't know if it makes big difference or if its worth to choose thunder over fury with this cause. I really don't know if it is even possible to use hall sensor like this. Just crossed my mind.. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunJam Posted November 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 Here is just one foto from todays shoot, before we tear this bike apart for modifications. And some info you can find also here https://www.facebook.com/FunJamRacing And you can find us also in instagram @FunJamRacing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunJam Posted February 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 On 10/31/2018 at 10:11 PM, Greg W said: Jani I have Adams first example setup on my Suzuki's, with ecu calculated gear Wastegate duty trim works good, but my ecu calculated gear is a problem if i change ratios and then have to recalibrate , about to switch to GPS voltage input for gear determination If you do use the Link and need a base setup i am happy to share Greg, I was having a conversation about this with my team and heard that GPS voltage in Hayabusa is not stable. In earlier project they had AIM boost controller and had troubles with this and they finally ended up to use push button from shifter to calculate gear and clutch lever to remain it to gear 1. I did bought those 2200 cc injectors, there is bank 1 , bank 2 and one spare bank, all flowtested in the shop to match to each other as near as possible. Turbo is Holset with billet turbine and we have 8, 12 and 14 exhaust housings, we are going to start from 12. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg W Posted February 24, 2019 Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 Jani was that with a gen 1 or gen 2 Busa , the gen 2 have a better GPS unit that uses an internal brass contact like an ignition switch rather than the gen 1 spring loaded pins on the shift drum that gave a less reliable voltage and also were they using the original ecu ? which i think did not always work well with other devises reading the voltage , I only finished wiring in my GPS on the weekend with the pull up resistor AdamW mentioned on another thread and the voltages seem stable so far although i am about to add an analog dash wire to the GPS AN out and that may have an effect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunJam Posted February 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 It was Gen 2 with original ECU. It is good, that it is working for you. Just thought to mention if it had save some trouble to check it first. Can you point out/link the topic, where this pull up resistor is mentioned? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg W Posted February 24, 2019 Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 Link didn't transfer quite as i expected, but click on the heading Use Adams diagram, i will reply with my voltages later in the day, Adams are very close Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg W Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 I have set the tolerance at 0.30v that may change when i get to the salt next week gear 1 1.82v N 0.30v 2 2.40 3 3.10 4 3.74 5 4.38 6 4.70 AdamW if i use a tolerance greater than the span between gears does that cause problems, ? say if i set it to .5v and the 5-6 variance is .32v ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunJam Posted March 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2020 Well, it was a year and a half since I started this topic and there has been progress... Slowly , but anyway.. :-) I have taken lots of web courses from HP acatemy, have been building tanks with my welderguy, machining , changed frame and front, bought tons of parts, build the engine.. And now it is one big mess.. :-) But we are gettiing somewhere and after couple of months I should be racing with the bike. Yeiiii! Still got lots of questions.. I'll send a diaghram soon So here is a drawing I made for the bike. Comments? Is powering lamda going to be problem thet way? I write some more details later. Jani /FunJam Racing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunJam Posted March 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2020 Link Fury. Wiring is done mostly with Link wiring looms, made the job so much easier for the first timer. After pic I have done most wiring for the power suply. Link 4bar MAP sensor , boost solenoid, lamda OEM ECT sensor, GPS Cordona quickshifter, KMS TPS, industrial swing height sensor, fuel- and oil pressure sensors, 4x exhaust temperature via CAN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 2, 2020 Report Share Posted March 2, 2020 The wiring diagram looks mostly ok to me. Lambda will be fine connected there. One thing Im not sure is needed - the "Fuel & Ign relay", why have you got that triggered by Aux 4? Normally one side of the relay coil would just be grounded and the otherside switched by the ign switch. Also, the "main switch" looks like it has a lot of load going through it - not sure if this is an isolator or ign switch, is it capable of 40A or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunJam Posted March 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2020 Main switch is hand operated switch, that should take it easily. Used in case of fire, for example, to connect all the electric power off. Reason for using aux 4 is, that in FIM-E rules there is : "All gasoline or methanol burning motorcycles must be equipped with an electrical contact which disconnects all electricity to the engine (and nitrous oxide system, if used) and including electric fuel pumps if the rider should lose control of the motorcycle." (=wrist strap) So there is wrist strap, run/stop-button and emergency-button that are doing basically same thing, but with little differently. Off course this could be done with relays, but I thought this would simplify wiring and do it with the ECU. Emergency button is something we just do to every bike in our team. I am lying very low on my bike. If I lose the control of the bike and will not be able to let go of the gas or lift it, there if a button in top of your front fork, that you can try to hit with your forehead and it will kill the bike for the moment. Sounds little bit funny, but that is just something that we have agreed to do. We have to remember, that we are trying to build +500 hp bike with no wheelie bars that will weight less than 250 kg. Team is not very experienced at this level and bike (including slider clutch) is all new, so there are lots of things that can go wrong amazingly fast. If am not very over worried of anything usually, but now I have to admit, that now I have certain respect for the bike and I am thinking little bit of safety also.. :-) There are several sensor ground wires and +5v wires in Link wiring loom Most of them are used for critical sensors, but there is one or two left and I still have lots of sensors that I need to get powered (Rear swing height, gear position sensor, puel pressure.. Etc.) So, is there any limit for sensors and is there rule, that some types of sensors should not connect to same +5v power or sensor ground. Mostly Hall, pressure, and travel sensors. Edit: Hall doesn't need sensor ground, but +8v, shared with cam sensor. And sensor ground is already divided in the loom, so it should be OK to divide again later in loom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 3, 2020 Report Share Posted March 3, 2020 Ok, sounds ok I think. 14 hours ago, FunJam said: There are several sensor ground wires and +5v wires in Link wiring loom Most of them are used for critical sensors, but there is one or two left and I still have lots of sensors that I need to get powered (Rear swing height, gear position sensor, puel pressure.. Etc.) So, is there any limit for sensors and is there rule, that some types of sensors should not connect to same +5v power or sensor ground. Mostly Hall, pressure, and travel sensors. Very unlikely to ever get near the 500ma limit. Most sensors are about 5ma each. All 5V and sensor ground pins and connected to the same power supply inside so if any of those 5V pins is shorted or overloaded it will mean all sensors are lost - even if they are connected to a separate 5V pin. You take care of this situation using the analog input error settings so that the defaults are fail safes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunJam Posted March 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2020 Cam sensor is a hall. Shielded wire in Link loom is together with knock sensor wire. does it supply +5 or +8 V ? I think it is ok to use with OEM Hayabusa hall-sensor.. Is "signal ground " in smart coils same as "sensor ground" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 4, 2020 Report Share Posted March 4, 2020 There should be 2 shielded cables on the A loom - these are for crank and cam, then also 2 shielded cables on the B loom, these are for knock sensors. Inside these shielded cables there are only two wires, signal and ground, for a hall effect sensor you have to run a separate wire for the power - usually the 8V wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunJam Posted March 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2020 Thas is right, I did even draw it in wiring diagram.. :-) I shouldn't write here before morning coffee.. Thanks anyway. Again. ;-) Jani Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunJam Posted March 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2020 I have a VAG smart coils with 4 connections. +12V, ground and signal is clear, but should I use sensor ground in fourth or just connect it to power side ground? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunJam Posted March 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2020 Still I haven't been able to find answer for this. Or actually have find two different answers.. Mostly common way seems that both grounds are connected to power side ground (cylinderhead) , but some think it is better to use singnal ground in pin 1. Coils are VAG Short ones (0986221023 ), there are two different types of connectors used in VAG coils. https://www.finjector.com/eng/bosch_ignition_coil_vag_1_2_1_6_with_power_stage-p-32668-42?fbclid=IwAR15DcyU-kxq8QGR6-hITwbtwEaG8_osqeaYdP0RY4YY9cJLQGs4d3tUubg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 26, 2020 Report Share Posted March 26, 2020 Sensor ground for pin 2 is the most correct, but either way works fine with the VAG coils, they dont seem to be sensitive on the trigger threshold. With some coils (IGN1A is one example) the trigger threshold is quite low, around 0.5V, so if you ground these coils trigger circuit to the engine instead of sensor ground and there is a small ground offset between ecu and engine then you can get sparks occurring at unexpected random times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunJam Posted March 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2020 OK, thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunJam Posted May 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2021 On 11/6/2018 at 5:43 AM, Adamw said: I think they are commonly referred to as "R8 coils", there's a couple of revisions and I believe the later one is preferable, I dont have any part numbers though. We dont really see them down here in NZ but they are a popular choice in Europe. Attached below is a CAN stream file to aid setup. First setup the CAN mode tab like my pic below, then go to the Streams tab, highlight stream1 and click on "load stream", then browse for this .lcs file attached here. Microtech EGT Use ID24.lcs Does it work also with EcuMaster EGT? I have this product https://shopbhp.com/products/8-channel-egt-to-can-module-works-perfect-with-link-ecu I was finally able to run the engine and we are going to the dyno in 16th day. https://fb.watch/5j_hH7E8zF/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 6, 2021 Report Share Posted May 6, 2021 1 hour ago, FunJam said: Does it work also with EcuMaster EGT? Yes set up instructions are in the help file on the page "Device Specific CAN Information". There is a stream template included in PC Link for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.