Simon

Any work carried out before the issue started? Do you have a hand controller to see what the inputs to the ECU are doing? Looking for thins like what the MAP reading is, TPS engine temp etc.

If you are sharing an input just make sure you have the pullup turned off on the DI. If its still not happy then you will need to have a look at how the signal is being effected.

Its unlikely to be needed. It is to suppress noise from the ignition on the 12 supply.

I would start by using an aux out from the ecu this is a low level signal and is very unlikely to do any damage to the tacho. If this fails then you might need to look at some of the options from MSD for allowing the use of a coil negative tacho.

The required cable is supplied with the ECU. This has USB on one end and a can connector on the other. You might want to factor in an air temp sensor. And you could also need ballast resistors depending on your injectors.

There isn't a way to do this currently. Sorry for the bad news. Simon

A1) The alternator in tha factory application might have been controlled to avoid the engine dropping in RPM when a large electrical load is switched on. You shold be fine and not worry about this input. A2) There will be factory ignitors either built into the coils or as an external ignitor pack. So as long as you retain the factory wiring you will be fine on this also. A3) For the wiring of the crank cam sensors etc the factory looming will be up to the task. A4) As long as you configure all the outs and ins correctly you will be able to get the engine to run / idle reletivly quickly. But if in doubt then letting the tuner do it all is a very good idea.

If you flick us an Email ill be able to dig out a PDF of the original manual to send you.

If you send us an email [email protected] I can send through a PDF of the instruction book.

You will actually require 4.7ohm 25Watt resistors. One per injector.

If you can send through your PCL file we can load it into an ECU and bench run to see if we can spot any issue. [email protected]

Hi William Check that you don't have two channels set to the map sensor function. And that the one you are using is set to the correct type of map sensor. Also make sure the Link sensor is wired to a 5V supply not 12V

You will have an AFR target table that is used for quick tune. This table does not have any direct effect on the fuel calculation. This is available on the G4's only. I hope this is what you are asking.

Does it suffer this issue when the engine isn't running?

If you set your limit to 'hard cut only' this will stop fuel and ignition.

Hi Rob A sewing needle works a treat for this. You will need to go in from the front of the plug to lift a locking tab. We (link) can supply the new pins.

The one from the ECU is a 0-12v signal with one pulse per firing event. Its duty cycle is adjustable via PC Link.

Switch 12v is all that is needed. No need to use any of the ECU power supplies

I wasn't sure myself so I checked with the engineering department and I was informed it must be off aux 1-4. These are the only channels that can provide a stable high frequency signal required for the cam control. Continuously Variable Valve timing (CVVT, VVT, VVTi, AVCS) Cam Position solenoids can only be connected to Auxiliary Outputs 1 to 4. It is recommended to ease configuration that cam position control solenoids are wired to the same number Auxiliary Output channel as the corresponding cam position Digital Input (refer following example). Although not absolutely necessary, it is recommended to ease configuration that cam position signals are wired to the same number Digital Input channel as the corresponding solenoid control Auxiliary Output (refer following table). For compatibility, the following use of Digital Inputs and Auxiliary outputs is recommended for VVT wiring. Note that in practice any Digital Input/Auxiliary Output combination can be used. Cam Shaft Digital Input Auxiliary Output Inlet or Inlet LH DI 1 Aux 1 Inlet RH DI 2 Aux 2 Exhaust or Exhaust LH DI 3 Aux 3 Exhaust RH DI 4 Aux 4 Solenoids MUST be wired directly to an auxiliary output channel DO NOT wire continuously variable valve timing solenoids through a relay as high frequency switching is used. Some factory systems use 12V switching to control VVT solenoids. These solenoids must be rewired to be ground switching.

We normally refer people to a specialist instrumentation company. An option that might also work would be to use a Mitsubishi tach adapter that was used on the early VR4 (4g63 engine). This device takes the two coil negative signals and combines then into one to drive the tacho.

Any chance you can do up a time line like I have attached and email it through to [email protected]. I can then pass this on to engineering.

On the G3 the lambda was geared for emissions and is not full closed loop. It will do a dither function only. For this function narrow band is all you will need.

Hi Byron If you need an instant response then give us a ring as we always answer the phone. (assuming its in working hours) We are dealing with a huge number of emails daily and at busy times it can take a while for us to respond. You can also contact any of our dealers as they will also be able to help on many levels. When you connect the ECU to the laptop does any Link device display in device manager? It might show as an unknown device. If nothing comes up I would see if you can try connecting the ECU to a laptop that is known to have worked in the past with G3/4 ecus.

What you are seeing is the engine is pulling very good vacuum on closed throttle to the point the map sensor is reading as low as it can go (0Volts). Map sensor wise all is as it should be. Unfortunately I don't have a way to get around the warning popping up all the time.

I would be having a good look to see what voltage the ECU is seeing at crank. It could be getting too low and the ECU then going through a reset. Also check the distributor is in the factory position or at least close to avoid the chance of cross firing.