Ivaylo Angelov

G4 is a bit limited in this respect.  There are no user definable "idle steps".
The best work around that I see is to loop a wire from your Aux 5 fan output to a spare DI.  Set the DI up as power steer switch.  Then you can use the power steer idle step and power steer idle load fuel trim for the fan.

Just wanted to clear the VAG coil wiring diagram. These coils have two ground connections when in the OEM installation . One is for the secondary coil - wired to the cyl head. The second is for the coil driver - wired to the chassis/ecu ground.

Just wanted to clear the VAG coil wiring diagram. These coils have two ground connections when in the OEM installation . One is for the secondary coil - wired to the cyl head. The second is for the coil driver - wired to the chassis/ecu ground.

Hi Guys,
EGT-K 2CH power consumption is ~2-3mA @ 12V.
OUT ground is internally connected with IN ground.
Sensors ground in your ECU is chassis ground with separate filtering for analog circuit - right?
You can connect it in two ways:
Using vehicle ground (chassis ground):
- EGT-K OUT signal to Adc input in ECU
- EGT-K OUT ground left floating
- EGT-K VCC input to +IGNITION or +BAT
- EGT-K GND input to -BAT or chassis ground.
Using ecu sensor ground:
- EGT-K OUT signal to Adc input in ECU
- EGT-K OUT ground to ECU sensor ground
- EGT-K VCC input to +IGNITION or +BAT
- EGT-K GND input left floating

Both cases will work. Second case will be more immune for external noise on ECU's power line.
Hope it helps.

That waveform above is correct for a tooth.  However the area that you are getting confused with on the crank waveform is actually a "missing tooth".  Missing tooth wheels are a little more difficult to see or visualise the correct polarity, you need to look at the gap area and you want the falling edge to be the most vertical zero crossing.  Hopefully my picture below will help explain it, this picture shows the correct polarity.

 
 

Fingers crossed my friend 

Think this should work:
Setup 2 Virtual Aux
Virtual Aux 1
Logic = Cond(1 AND 2) OR 3
SW Cond 1 ECT | > 55
SW Cond 2  | Aux Virtual Value1 = ON  | 1
SW Cond 3 | ECT > | 75
Virtual Aux 2
Logic = Cond(1 AND 2) OR 3
SW Cond 1 IAT | > 35
SW Cond 2  | Aux Virtual Value1 = ON  | 2
SW Cond 3 | IAT > | 50
Then setup a AUX as a GP output 
Switch Logic Cond 1 OR 2
SW Cond 1 Aux Virtual Value1 = ON | 1
SW Cond 2 Aux Virtual Value1 = ON | 2

Or may be this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/car-40P-81P-engine-wiring-harness-plug-121P-121-PIN-1J0-906-385C-038-906-379B/32723477544.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.tgK62G&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_5460015_10152_10065_10151_10068_10344_10342_10343_10340_10341_5470015_10304_10307_10137_10060_10302_10155_10154_10056_10055_10054_5370015_10059_10532_100031_10099_10338_10339_5380015_10103_10102_10052_10053_10107_10050_10142_10051_10171_10326_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10110_5590015_10111_10112_10113_10114_143_10312_10313_10314_10078_10079_10073,searchweb201603_17,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=a642adc7-df9b-4fff-bdbf-2724dfd07660&algo_expid=b311710b-89e4-4fb8-9e19-59ba78ecc360-0&algo_pvid=b311710b-89e4-4fb8-9e19-59ba78ecc360

Hello Adam,
Just a little feedback. The engine is running on the factory settings. It is pig rich but running. First I tried with -84 deg offcet but received a pop inside the manifold. Then changed to 276 deg and it started like an OEM :-). The timing light showed 277 deg offcet is the perfect match. I checked the settings. The master was 15ms which appears to be too high for my 60lb Siemens Deka injectors at 45psi base pressure. I'm very happy with my Link ECU so far. Especially with the "Differential pressure" channel. A very, very useful thing.
I'm still discovering the ecu's possibilities :-))
Here is a short video with the factory settings "in charge" engine start. Only 3"diameter short down pipe from the turbo. The idle is on two wire Bosch solenoid valve. Some problems with the alternator charging because I switched to a LED lamp. Fixed now.
Made some changes to the master fuel (13) and the idle table. Also added a straight muffler to the DP. Now I can hear the empty hydr.lifters knockng:
Thank you very much!
Ivo

yes one of those will be close to correct (-84 or 276).  I cant tell you which one though, it is just normally easiest just to try one, if it doesnt start or backfires, use the other one.
All of your other settings sound ok. 

Open the "set base timing" screen, that is where you enter the offset.  Remember to hit the enter key after changing the offset.

Try Maplins or rs components

Hi,
My be this link will give you the answers needed. Just watch all 4 parts:
Enjoy...