Smity42 Posted October 19, 2019 Report Share Posted October 19, 2019 Can anyone tell me what is wrong with my Link CAN-Lambda? Up until recently it was working fine. Now it no longer gives me a lambda reading. First, it starts with Status = Calibration, Error = 1 (OK), Temp = 0. After about 15s, the temp starts climbing from 0 to 85 for around 5 seconds. Then it goes briefly (for about 1s) Status = Diagnostic, Error = 15 (Heated Too Long), Temp = 0. Then it spends about another 20s with Status = Calibration, Error = 15 (Heated Too Long), Temp drops from 35 back to 0, sits at 0 for a while, then climbs from 0 to 185 over 10 seconds. Then another couple of seconds Status = Diagnostics, Error = 16 (Heated Too Long) then 48 (APE Over Voltage), temp = 0. Then it basically repeats this in a loop every 22s, except for the 20s while status is Diagnostic the Error is 2 (I don't know what this error is). Error flicks briefly to 16 (Heated Too Long), then 48 (APE Over Voltage), then it repeats again. Dead LSU? Or could something else be causing this? Thanks, Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducie54 Posted October 19, 2019 Report Share Posted October 19, 2019 Try running a power wire straight from the battery to the wideband power supply. AbbeyMS 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Hill Posted October 19, 2019 Report Share Posted October 19, 2019 As above, try running it directly from a battery, also, have you added any inductive loads into the wiring? Have you got an electrolytic capacitor connected? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevieturbo Posted October 19, 2019 Report Share Posted October 19, 2019 Seems a huge number of threads with problems with these ? Even Innovate weren't this difficult.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 19, 2019 Report Share Posted October 19, 2019 Yes, they are fussy if connected to a circuit that has significant inductive noise (large voltage spikes). If they are wired as per the two options in the quick start guide they work fine, just very few people seem to read the manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smity42 Posted October 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2019 Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I will try powering directly from the battery when I get a chance (probably not until the weekend) and see if that makes a difference. On 10/19/2019 at 9:17 PM, Richard Hill said: As above, try running it directly from a battery, also, have you added any inductive loads into the wiring? Have you got an electrolytic capacitor connected? I have not added any new loads (inductive or otherwise) into the wiring. No, I do not have an electrolytic capacitor connected... as per my comments to Adamw below. Perhaps I need to add this. On 10/20/2019 at 7:06 AM, Adamw said: Yes, they are fussy if connected to a circuit that has significant inductive noise (large voltage spikes). If they are wired as per the two options in the quick start guide they work fine, just very few people seem to read the manual. I get that you need to defend your product, but can' help taking some offence at this comment coming from a member of Link staff. I did read the manual. You know, this one: http://linkecu.com/documentation/canlambda.pdf Mine is wired up as per the single wiring diagram in this manual. Which, by the way, does not match either of the two wiring options in the 'quick start' guide, which is a document I only became aware of now that you mentioned it. It seems to be the same as the 'Alternative' option, but without the Electrolytic capacitor. I'm not sure if the quick start guide even existed when I purchased and installed my CAN Lambda. It may have, but personally I tend to gravitate more towards full manuals rather than 'quick start guides' as I expect them to contain more complete/comprehensive information. A poor assumption when dealing with Link, it seems. Additionally, neither document mentions anything about sensitivity to inductive noise at all. So, perhaps instead of blaming your customers for 'not reading the manual' you should ensure your documentation is consistent and your manual is actually correct. I have been a big supporter of Link products up until now but to be honest this has now left a sour taste in my mouth. Anyway, it looks like I have a couple of things to look at now. I am glad I asked here and didn't just go dropping $100 on another LSU. Thanks again for the help everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMP Posted October 21, 2019 Report Share Posted October 21, 2019 I dont believe Adam is a Link Staff member Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 21, 2019 Report Share Posted October 21, 2019 My post was a reply to Stevieturbo’s comment. I don’t work for Link and am not defending the product, just speaking from experience. I have installed many without drama. The quick start guide is what ships in the box as far as I remember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smity42 Posted October 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2019 1 hour ago, Adamw said: My post was a reply to Stevieturbo’s comment. I don’t work for Link and am not defending the product, just speaking from experience. I have installed many without drama. The quick start guide is what ships in the box as far as I remember. Apologies. It says "Staff" under your picture so I assumed you were Link staff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smity42 Posted November 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2019 Update: Tried adding an electrolytic capacitor as per the quick start guide, and also tried powering it directly off the battery as suggested in this thread. No dice. :( I guess the next thing to try is a new LSU? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 2, 2019 Report Share Posted November 2, 2019 What does it say in the ECU status tab of the runtimes screen for Lambda 1 status and lambda 1 error? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smity42 Posted November 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2019 10 minutes ago, Adamw said: What does it say in the ECU status tab of the runtimes screen for Lambda 1 status and lambda 1 error? Status changes between "Diagnostic" and "Calibration". Error changes between "15 Heated Too Long", "48 APE Over Voltage", and "2" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 2, 2019 Report Share Posted November 2, 2019 The 16 heated too long is often caused by the power supply, but the other 2 errors are a bit odd and I havent seen them before, I think I would suspect the sensor in this case. Make sure you get a replacement from a reputable seller, not ebay or amazon, there are many fakes out there now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunJam Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 On 10/20/2019 at 12:06 AM, Adamw said: Yes, they are fussy if connected to a circuit that has significant inductive noise (large voltage spikes). If they are wired as per the two options in the quick start guide they work fine, just very few people seem to read the manual. So true. Spanked my self (mentally) , fixed the wiring and got it working. Thank you! :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smity42 Posted March 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2021 Updating an old thread - finally got around to replacing the LSU 4.9 and it solved the problem. Just in case anyone else gets the same problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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