Sparta Posted April 1, 2017 Report Share Posted April 1, 2017 Hi guys!We have built an C30B (3,5Litre) here in Sweden for Rallycross.Using G4+Extreme Red. Aftermarket cranktrigger (2-pole inductive) with 36-1 triggerwheek on crank. Using the original sensor for camsync.Seems like we're having triggerproblems. When cranking both trigger1 and trigger2 turns green and says "yes".But still I can see in the fuelmap that rpm are very unstable, and sometimes even the shiftlights in the dash flashes during cranking.Engine fires up and it sounds normal when cranking, but after a few seconds it misfires.Any suggestions about this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 1, 2017 Report Share Posted April 1, 2017 Can you please do a trigger scope and post it here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparta Posted April 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2017 When looking at the scope capture everything looks really good. But I still having problems with misfire. I can see rpm-peaks up to 15000rpm, and the shiftlight in the dash flashes. All this when holding (or trying to hold) engine steady att approx.2000rpm.Someone who used the original crank/cam-trigger on a Honda C30/32-engine. Should this work with Link G4+ in sequential mode?There are 4 sensors (crankA, crankB, CylA and CylB).If I understood correctly, there are 24 tooth on the crank with NO missing teeth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 4, 2017 Report Share Posted April 4, 2017 Please post the trigger scope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparta Posted April 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2017 Aftermarket 36-1 wheel on crankshaft.Honda standard cyl pickup (camsync). Engine is still misfiring, and I can se rpm-peaks that are really high (more than 10krpm, even as the engine only running at high idle. Using flying lead harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 4, 2017 Report Share Posted April 4, 2017 Your trigger 2 waveform is upside down. Swap the wires on the cam sensor. Also assuming this trigger scope was taken during cranking or idling then I would bump up the arming threshold on trigger 2 a little also as there is ~+/-0.5V of noise. Try something like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparta Posted April 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2017 Okay!I will test to swap the wires. and also set the threshold as you suggested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparta Posted April 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2017 Adam... You saved my day.Thanks a lot. Engine is now running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparta Posted April 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2017 When looking in the help, I can see that Honeywell GT101 is NOT recommended as trigger. Is this only for crank, or both? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 10, 2017 Report Share Posted April 10, 2017 The GT101 can be used as a crank trigger within its limitations but it can be fussy. Some very loose rules based on my experience: Will not work with missing tooth trigger wheels.Teeth need to be sized as per the honeywell data sheet (a little smaller usually works ok but not MUCH smaller. About 6x6x6mm is the smallest I have seen them reliably detect).Usually about 24 teeth is about the most they can handle at ~9000RPM.There is a very similar hall effect sensor from ZF, part number GS101202 or GS101201 that does missing teeth wheels and high rpm well. Why do you ask? Are you having problems with your present setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparta Posted April 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2017 Problem we have, is that the enginebuilder didn't mount the original sensor correct. And now it's broken. We decided to put in a normal cam-sensor instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Baker Posted April 17, 2018 Report Share Posted April 17, 2018 On 10/04/2017 at 9:59 AM, Adamw said: The GT101 can be used as a crank trigger within its limitations but it can be fussy. Some very loose rules based on my experience: Will not work with missing tooth trigger wheels. Teeth need to be sized as per the honeywell data sheet (a little smaller usually works ok but not MUCH smaller. About 6x6x6mm is the smallest I have seen them reliably detect). Usually about 24 teeth is about the most they can handle at ~9000RPM. There is a very similar hall effect sensor from ZF, part number GS101202 or GS101201 that does missing teeth wheels and high rpm well. Why do you ask? Are you having problems with your present setup? Interesting information. Just been given a car to calibrate on a G4+ Fury. It has a modified Nissan CAS with a single slot for cam sync, and a 36-1 trigger wheel on crank with a GT101 sensor. You think the GT101 will be an issue? Engine will be revving to 7500rpm approx. Each tooth is approximately 8x8x8mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 18, 2018 Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 I would not risk it with a GT101 on a missing tooth wheel, for UK$20 you can replace it with either of the ones I linked. The GT101 has "logic" built into it to correct the output to allow for variation in air-gap and wheel run-out etc. When it sees a "missing tooth" it tries to correct for that and distorts the signal around the gap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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