ozyvr4

Hi there , I just done an update on my IC7 dash and saw in the Link G4 template they offer ethanol sensor as a display. I have set the dash to display Ethanol but its not changing. I want to confirm that the Link VR4Link G4+ has ethanol data in the generic dash stream. Another question off topic. I have just fitted a Bosch 260 Bar #0261545040 sensor to my auto transmission . I bought it by mistake as I wanted something that read higher than 150psi . I can not find any calibration info. I did log Raw voltage and found 0.615V is 0 psi . I have not started car as I want to try to moniter pressure on start up.

Thanks for that. I tried and it tested fine. I had it closed from 30-40% where I blew through it , very little air passed. Tomorrow I'll try again . I'll warm car up and set to 50 then adjust idle screw until target is reached and see how that goes. For the moment I have disabled idle ignition control and will try in open loop , to try get base idle set. Thanks again..

So do I set up AUX 8 GP PMW Freq @ 200hz / 0.0 map and 0 rpm , then alter DC in DC Table @ same load point.

Its a genuine Bosch , I bought from Haltech That sounds like a great idea as I have been trying to figure out how to test with the engine off. How do I set up as a GP PWM ? I found the settings. Ill have a play.

So I have been having idle issues for a while after swapping the mistsubishi stepper out to a bosch 2 wire valve. I have sorted through numerous issues. Just recently I removed the Throttle body as too much air was passing through from the holes before the throttle shaft into the chamber that the stepper motor would have been restricting air through, as I have the bosch feeding air into that location. I made a plate to block any air coming from before the throttle shaft except the idle screw so the only path is through the new valve. Now the problem I'm having is when setting the Duty Cycle I have to have it set at 38-39% ,but idle still is slightly higher than my target. If I set to 36% or lower the engine stops. I have it wired to Aux 8 and set to 'idle solenoid' I have set up to 200hz . I've been doing some searching for ideas and came across a post mentioning a flyback diode. Has anyone had a problem like this? From what I understand , I wire the diode across the power and signal of the solenoid in reverse polarity so voltage can not pass through under normal operation, but only when trigger collapse and to leak off any excess charge in coil of solenoid. Imhoping the emf from the coil is keeping voltage high enough to keep valve open and not allowing proper control. Any info would be appreciated.

Im just finishing a wiring clean up on a GSR Lancer with a 4g63. It has an EVOlink 1-3 plug n play Ecu. I have had to reconfigure alot of wiring and fit new fans. I can manually activate the fan relay with the Test mode in the drop box for the particular AUX , but when I select it to Fan 1 nothing nothing happens . I've been trying to activate prior to starting car by dropping the temperature activation down below the ECT temp and it does not activate. I have tried the non driven wheel lockout up to 180 so it always stays active and set the 0 rpm time out up, but still nothing.

Mode - Transmit Displaylink ID - 1400 Transmit rate - 50hz You could fit a electronic speed sensor and wire to ecu . You will get speed but the trip meters dont work at the moment for some reason

I worked it out. Yes it was in map instead of MPG. I suspect it would have been the same as the fuel table. Thanks guys.

So tonight I was having a look at my timing maps as a friend wanted my to copy into his G4x file. For some reason all the axis points under 0 MPG are not there. Im sure they would have been visible when the car was tuned. Is the setup of visible information different on each laptop that plugs into the ecu. I checked older files from when car was originally tuned but still display the same. If I add the lower axis points into the displayed value with all the values from when car was tuned just display of will ecu automatically try to configure own values. I will also that I just did an update of the software on my laptop. I normally only us laptop in the house when viewing info as I have a tablet in the car. I havenot yet updated tablet software yet .

Thanks again. I suspect its working as when I set to 0 the engine stops. Im starting to suspect a leak in the system . Ill do a leak test and try your values.

I saw more parameters added to the generic can stream. Was ethanol content added? I have a Haltech IC7 and it does not have ethanol content in there list for the link template. Im hopeful.

https://www.dropbox.com/t/BgtUCumA75I3OTyk I tried again

I did another log today. I started from cold and once warmed I drove to try and replicate the problem I have comin to a stop. It did happen a few times . Its long file. https://www.dropbox.com/preview/warm up drive.llg?role=personal

In that log id did not act like it normally does. I did yesterday change the speed sensor to a genuine sensor from the cheap version I had. I noticed today the signal is much smoother. It def has been better with new sensor. Ill do another log with more data to try and catch the problem. I will post my map tonight. A map taken today. sd.pclr

First is no speed sensor and a little hunting before a steady idle. Sesond log is with the speed sensor engaged. no speed.llg speed.llg

So I have it all running. It works a treat. Its never idle so well. I am having an issue with the interfacec with the speed signal tho. When I come to stop, it hunts badly . Even if I put into neutral while coming to a stop it hunts and once carnstop it take a few seconds to stabilise , but sometimes it just keep hunting. I noticed in above instructions, it mention that the speed signal needs to be feed into DI 1. I have wired to DI 3 . Will the input used actually make a difference. I will post a log tomorrow. What sort of data would you need on log to analyse for me please?

You mean 1 side of the solenoid to the intake manifold and the other to the turbo intake pipe or cool side intercooler pipe? make an adaptor to run into old isc stepper location on the throttle body and the other side to the intercooler pipe before throttle body Thanks.

So I have decided to ditch my idle stepper motor in my 4g63. I've bought a Bosch 2 wire idle solenoid. Im going to setup on AUX 5 and set to Idle solenoid. Has anyone used 1 of these as solenoids? I have reading some post and saw people mentioning diode for protection from back feeding. Is this needed on the Link G4+ PnP Ecu. VR4Link. Also any idea on frequency to use with this solenoid. I suspect the solenoid is normal closed and opens from output activation, so when car is off idle it should seal closed, just making sure I don't need anything else for the fit. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks.

I think I found problem. The relay for CAS/ISC and BCS was not pushed all the way home. I had it out a couple months ago testing circuits. It must have wiggled enough to loose contact intermittently. I pushed all the way home and test drove this morming for over an hour and no spikes. Im confident its sorted.

You can get adaptors that go n the top of the injector instead of the bottom. I am a few mates run the same injector.

Yes . BPR7es plugs. Denso coil on plug system. Ill get a trigger scope at idle and 3000rpm before I try new CAS.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2eldcrncwnse071/Log 2020-08-7 11%3B08%3B34 pm.llg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/h?preview=Log+2020-08-7+11%3B08%3B34+pm.llg I loaded to dropbox. This is the first time I have tried this.

I'm trying to upload log file but t too large. Im trying to reduce but I cant figure out to how to. I zoom on the area where the spikes are but when I save it, it saves the complete file. Ill have to do another trigger scope as it did not save.

I'm having an issue with RPM spike that is activating the RPM cut . It happens at random and I am stumped to how to fix. It started to happen a couple weeks ago. Before this the car has been running fine I checked over the wiring . It all seems good. I rewired the harness last year with new TXL wire and new plugs . Any ideas would be great . VR4Link spike.pclr