maccakpa

I suspect the unstable idle is possibly due to the SPWA as the lambda bounces up and down by a whole lot more than the reported effective PW.  You can see his reported Eff PW is bouncing between about 0.5 and 0.6mS (this reported value doesnt include SPWA).  If the injector was perfectly linear then 0.6ms would be 20% more fuel than 0.5ms.  If you add the SPWA figures on to that - at 0.5PW the SPWA is -0.066 and at 0.625PW the SPWA is +0.046 so you actually end up with a final PW of 0.434ms for the commanded 0.5 and final of 0.646 for the 0.6 commanded, or you could say 48% extra fuel/PW.  Obviously those adders are there to compensate for an injector that is not perfectly linear, but perhaps those or the deadtimes are wrong and therefore adding or removing fuel where it doesnt need to be.  
For the wall wetting I know it is disabled during start up so it is unlikely but I thought there could potentially be something triggering it either at shutdown or shortly after starting that causes the flooding.
 
 
 

The log files doesnt seem to match the map.  For example the lambda target is 1.00 in the log but it is 0.905 in the map.  
The lambda is not even close to target so that would be the first thing to correct.  Why is the injector size set to 1600cc if it has 1700's?
Also, ID1700's dont have very good short PW behavior and for this reason ID dont recommend using them with gasoline where low flow is important, so dont expect miracles. 

Hi.
Your knock needs to be tuned first.. to see if this was real knock. 
I wouldnt be going around and doing pulls on untuned knock/ignition. This is a recipe for a new iag900 block.
Either take it to a tuner or take some courses.
 
Also if you fixed your idle.. post what fixed it.. it might help another guy..
 
to reduce knock you'd usually remove timing or add fuel or both.. or look at you AVCS.
Remski
 
Also.. you went from 6500 to 7700 so either you have trigger issues or your clutch slipped.

You hitting an ignition cut mid of your pull... 
You are close to MAP limit but it doesnt show it triggered.. 
2nd thing.. your knock.. 
3rd.. you have warm up enrichment on while at normal operating temps.. add that to fuel and zero out your operating range.
Unless there is another reason to have it on...
 
my2c.

I have 272 GSC cams and I idle at 1100.. so bump your idle speed.
I'd copy the E-throttle PID settings from the base map. 
Copy your Idle ignition control PID settings from the base map as well. 
See where that gets you...
If that doesnt work switch to Open loop idle control and go from there. 
 
Hope this helps.

Yeah, that map looks terrible.  Below I have attached your map with some changes to make a better starting point.  Will need to see another log with this map to see how base position looks.
Starting point.pclx

It needs to be tuned now by someone with experience.  
Idle is in open loop mode so it is not targeting anything.  Your MAP sensor calibration is wrong, it should read the same as BAP with engine off.  Idle MAP lockout is too low - this may be ok when MAP sensor calibration is corrected, but currently Idle control is locked out because MAP is above the lockout. The bogging is due to accel fuel cold correction set to zero.  IAT trim should be turned off in modelled mode.  4D fuel table should be turned off if you dont have TGV. Your fuel table is a complete mess. Update firmware as yours is old and you want the latest before tuning.    
 

You've got AN Volt 2 & 3 set up as pedal sensors, these are the the TP sensors.  You have the TP sensors set up as AN Volt 9 & 10, these are your pedal sensors.  So you need to swap these.  Copy the correct settings from our WRX V10 base map.

It doesnt look like you done this yet.  The fuel table should have numbers around 50-60% in the idle area increasing to around ~100 at peak torque RPM.  
Also, I would zero out the SPWA table and set the minimum effective PW to zero. Copy the example charge temp approximation table from the help file.   Turn off IAT fuel trim. 
To help any further we will need a log and an explanation of what the actual problem is.  
 

If you don't also change the values on your fuel table, then it would be too lean to start.
You normally should have 60-80% at 0rpm/100kpa - you'd be having to do some trials before you get the sweet spot - plus some adjustments for the cold start enrichments.