AN7

Im 90% certain the toyota 2GR trigger mode will work with this 36-2 + 3tooth cam combo but I dont know if anyone has tried with a G4.  I cant really test in house so it would be a "suck it and see" at your risk.  

I wouldnt worry about it too much.  If the engine runs ok, idles smoothly, the cam position shows zero at idle and follows target when commanded then it is likely fine.  I have no idea what engine we got the info from or if there are variations of it.   

The calibration tables in G4 if the input units are set to ohms assumes a 1Kohm pull-up.  So in this case since you have 1k pull up you could enter the ohms values diirect from the data sheet.  

Volt output= 5V*(sensor resistance) /(sensor resistance + pull up resistor) 
Using the voltage divider formula

As I say, unplug a couple of aux pins at a time until you find your culprit.  They come out easy - no tools needed.
You want at least Injectors and ignition coils to remain connected to the same source as the ecu so it can apply correct deadtimes and dwell times. 

The back feed can only be caused by one of the accesories that is connected to an aux output being "hot fed" (live all the time, not ignition switched).  Remove the diode, find which aux is causing the backfeed and move it to an ignition switched feed.  The easiest way is often to pull say 2 aux output pins out of the main connector at a time until the problem goes away, then you can narrow down which one it is.  Ignition outputs and injector outputs on the Storm cant backfeed so it is only the aux outputs you need to investigate.  
Correct main power wiring is below, and I have also attached some extra reading about backfeeding from the help file. 

The problem is the diode you have drawn in the main ECU power supply - you need to remove that.  The flyback from the solenoids needs to be able to go back to the battery though that wire, having the diode there will prevent that.  With nowhere for the flyback to go it will just "pump up" the ECU voltage.