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If you have sparkplugs without "R", try replacing them with some that have.

So when solenoid is deactivated in software you see full boost?

Thanks Jason! Great info

Someone have one to share? Have anyone made a plug and play for this engine? Thanks Ben Stian

Vi-PEC or Phormula KS-4. Both output 0-5 V.

You can also use virtual aux to setup more complex criteritums like starting logging when boost is over 150 kpa AND TP greater than 80% AND speed over 90 kmt. Use your imagination. You can also choose sampling rate(updates pr sec). Ie 1Hz, 5 Hz, 10 Hz and so on.

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I have an 2.1 engine with ID2000 (same as yours?) injectors running E85 that you get the fuel table from. Send me your email on my pm. Remember it is only for startup.

Hello Kristian Remove the ballast resistors as page 6 in the manual. There is no need to change anything in the software, because you have saturated inj drives(low current). Also fill in the correct deadtimes for your injectors in the custom dead time table. (Not essential for the engine to run, but for correct deadtimes with various voltages.) You must check with a engine wiring diagram to find out why you do not have +12v at the injectors. If you have the wiring diagram, you can email it to me and I will look at it. Regards Ben Stian

Have you tried with Cam level as sync? I just fired a M44 that needed Cam level to run.

Black wire is trigger +(A8) and should be wired to pin 2. Wire pin 1 to A7. Try it and see if there is any change. Mine ran fine with filter level 1. These are my values. Tested up to 8000 rpm. Timing rock solid. Arming voltages: 0 - 0.5 1000- 1 2000- 1.5 3000- 1.5 4000- 0.5 5000- 0.2 6000- 0.2

Marius I have these. Will call you later.

If your timing light and software are aligned, then it is fine. What engine and trigger type is it? I see there is 20 teeth on the crank, but what do you use at the cam?

Go to Ecu settings- triggers and calibrate. Lock igniton timing to whatever you want in software, say 10* BTDC and adjust offset in software till the timing light align.

I dont think there is a formula. I am no expert in this, but you have to scope the current draw of the coil till it will not rise any more. Testing all voltages you car will be seeing. The time till it reaches max current, is dwell time. Should be no point increasing dwell after this. It will only generate heat, ruin your coil and/or igniter.

1.8 ms@ 14v are quite common for cop. I do not know exactly the dwell times, but think you should be ok. Do you get misfires or melt the coils?

Yes you can use 24-1, 30-1, 60-2 etc. All these will work fine. You can also modify the distributor so the sensor only see 1 tooth and use this as a cam sync if you dont want to fabricate a new crank trigger wheel. However, you must remove the 5th tooth at the crank.

@Sute The LC1 will work fine as long as the Vi-PEC and LC1 are grounded to the same place to avoid signal offset because the LC1 does not have a dedicated signal ground as the AFX meter have. @djdino You can wire it to the expansion harness via An Volt 6 (analog out from AFX) and Gnd (sensor ground from AFX) that are available via your local dealer if you not have it. Setup An Volt 6 as "NGK AFX widebandmeter" in software. You can also use the afm meter connector in the engine bay if you are not using it. It must then be setup as An Volt 2.

Hi The afx only have one output. That means you must wire the wideband signal to the Vipec and send from Vipec to the dash.

Hi I have not got any info that the newer V88 will accept the newer 2nd harmonics knock sensors found in your car. I think installing a Bosch donut sensor which is available at your dealer will do the job. If you feel you must use the oem sensor, I would have wired in the digital Vi-PEC knock amplifier.

If you already have a V44, you can do as hic says or buy a plate from the early AEB engines with this part# 078 905 234 D. Should cost about 10-15 USD. I have used it on some engines.

If I remember correctly, Ray recommended 24 teeth. Less teeth can be more inaccurate in very rapid acceration change. Say you have a very responsive engine with a very very light flywheel vs an "normal" engine very a heavy flywheel. I have used from 2 teeth to 135 teeth, and all are very stable according to timing light when free reving the engine.

I have had some of these old inline 5 cyl 20vt with and without idle valve, and have had good coldstart with them. You can get a map from me and try my cold start settings if you want. My private car started fine when freezing cold outside, even without idle solenoid and could be driven at once. I have not used oem n75 idle valves, only the mac ones and have had zero problems with controlling boost. If you are using the stock boost solenoid, it may be faulty or you may have a massive boost leak. It should make a ticking sound when test pwm. Verify that it have +12V at the connector. It may not have it when the car have ign on and car not running if it is connected to the fuel pump relay. As Simon says, when test on, it should overboost so be careful

If you dont want to use an volt 4, an volt 6 are a spare one on your plugin, and an volt 2 if you are not using the AFM, only running map. Using volt 6, you must use an expansion connector on your plugin board. If you dont have it, it is available via your dealer at a low cost. Using volt 2, you can wire into the AFM.

Hi I tried to download, but get corrupt file. Please try to upload as .pcl