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essb00

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Posts posted by essb00

  1. Just a quick look at your map...

    1. Your pre-crank prime dumps too much fuel at key on - probably why you're getting back fire.
    2. You are having trigger errors. Try to lower your trigger arming threshold to values as per below. Maybe a good idea to post a trigger scope log so we can try to see what's going on.  Most probably because of the trigger error why you're also not getting any coil dwell in the logs (not firing the coils at all).
    319424675_TriggerArmingThresholdTable.png.2687e19e709e411169a3ca3c486fce22.png

  2. Your idle position % sits on min clamp 35%, while your idle base position is set 40%. You may need to lower your rpm lockout above target.
    Plus, your idle ignition control proportional gain & derivative gain seem to high causing too much idle ignition fluctuation. You may also need to adjust the ISC integral gain.

    Closed loop idle speed control is supposed to make small corrections to idle variations from target, but not to actually make drastic corrections. Follow the open loop ISC setup procedure in the help file, and when properly tuned by then you can shift to closed loop.

  3. 14 minutes ago, Rozsko said:

    Thanks Essb00, but that is exactly the thing I want to avoid, since I am running out of available custom CAN frames.

    So, let me rephrase. Can I use 4 "Spartan 3" on the same ID (950) and assign Lambda1,2,3,4 the same way as you can do with "Link CAN Lambda"s?

    Only one CAN-lambda per CAN ID (950, 951, 952, 953 on your case)... Having different ID per device is the only way for the ECU to know from which device it is receiving data from.

  4. 4 hours ago, Rozsko said:

    Bringing back this topic for a quick question after spending some time searching and reading.

    If the Spartan3 is set to Link mode on Id#950, then can I connect multiple units and set them up separately for Lambda1,2,3,4 the same way as the Link CAN Lambda? If the CAN Devices tab will only sow real Link CAN Lambdas (as per earlier comment), then I assume not, but wanted to check.

    Spartan 3 has serial to USB connection, where you can send commands from computer (using terminal) to change parameters (CAN ID, etc.). You can see overview how to connect on Spartan 3 user manual. This though is quite complicated --- so it might be the best idea to request to have different CAN IDs pre-configured as you order 'em from 14point7.

  5. I actually opened the tune file from one of your previous posts - which has similar parameters set I mentioned with this latest one you have.

    The time you had your engine running on the log barely had the CAN lambda heating - and then engine stalled.

    The idle settings on the start-up map is only sort of a basis - you need to also have the idle parameters tuned to your engine.
    Follow the open loop idle ISC tuning in the help file - then if you already had the idle near the target, by then you can use closed loop ISC.

  6. A few observations about your log.
    1. Your base idle position seem to low to reach target idle - and engine stalls once idle startup offset begins to decay
    2. Your CAN Lambda is having error 34 at 0:13. Check the connection of your LSU4.9 sensor to CAN lambda.

    The following are really not yet relevant but will later on affect how the engine runs:
    1. CLL ECT lockout is too low. Put 70°С to 75°C --- if this is too low, CLL would conflict with warmup enrichments.
    2. CLL Startup timer too low. Put 30s. --- CAN Lambda need time to heat up and stabilize.
     

  7. 1 hour ago, maccakpa said:

    im just curious when i change fuel type to modelled and change the injector to 850 and attach injector data car doesnt start.

    If you don't also change the values on your fuel table, then it would be too lean to start.
    You normally should have 60-80% at 0rpm/100kpa - you'd be having to do some trials before you get the sweet spot - plus some adjustments for the cold start enrichments.

  8. Fault code 11 = An Volt 1 below Error Low Value
    What do you have connected to An Volt 1? You might need to check your wirings.

    Better connect it to a laptop with PCLink software in order to see what's really going on.

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