essb00
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Posts posted by essb00
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31 minutes ago, RyanG said:
Yeah I've purchased an ethanol sensor and will be fitting shortly. I'm aware of the ability to adjust values between each fuels and I've done this, just separately in different maps and only at straight 98 or straight E85. I haven't really gone down the path of flex fuel yet because it just adds another complexity that's not needed until I fully sort it on a single fuel.
Yes manufacturer data is where I've started and tweaked from there as stated. It's the how to go about "tweaking" it I'm really interested in..
I suggest leaving the manufacturer-provided injector dead time data as is. You already pointed out the non-linearity of the flow rate, so you should not expect that method with multipoint group 1/2 cycles would get you something good (as you only keep lowering the pw with flow rate into non-linearity).
Focus more on the charge temp approximation table (try engine rpm vs MGP as with the help file).
Disable your IAT fuel corrections. -
1. Get an ethanol sensor - so you can use 'modelled-multi-fuel' where you can specify injector characteristics for each fuel blend end range you use (e.g. pure 98octane & E85). Sample below. *Default fuel main & injector setup data for 98, multi-fuel data on E85 section.
2. You normally start with the injector manufacturer-provided dead time data, and tweek +/- from there. This would be very hard to just 'guess' especially on high flow rate injectors where there's a big chunk of non-linear region when you graph volumetric flow vs actual commanded pulse width.
3. Different fuel charge cooling coefficient for different blends can also be set from 'modelled ' multi-fuel' mode.
4. Charge temp correction would be very complicated to figure especially in non-consistent/non-repeatable conditions - that's why expert tuners recommend have this done on the dyno.
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I just noticed, does your fuel pressure regulator have a MAP reference vacuum/boost hose (for fuel pressure compensation)?
It seems according to your log, fuel pressure does not rise with boost. Fuel pressure even dips on some points - which may also be an indication your engine does not have enough fuel flow from the pump. -
Tach driven by Aux 4 instead.
Shift light to Ign 3 (active low).
Speedometer driven directly by VSS -- Ign 4 unused. -
As what Adam already mentioned, most probably the Link 7 bar calibration table is off compared to what is supposedly used for your fuel pressure sensor. Wasn't there any calibration points/table provided when you purchased the sensor?
Are the injector dead times you've there, the ones provided with the injectors? What's the impedance/resistance of the injector coils as measured?About your IAT, you should fill out some values on your 'Charge Temperature Approximation Table'. Refer to the help file for some guidance.
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Pls attach your latest tune file so we can see how you configured the calibration table for the LC-2.
14point7 Spartan 2 is one good gaugeless analog wideband controller. The Spartan 3 has CAN.
If you only have 1 lambda controller connected (assigned as Lambda 1, nothing assigned on Lambda 2), then you should only look at Lambda 1. -
Just to clarify, your fuel system is return-less -- pressure regulator no MAP reference?
Where do you have the fuel pressure sensor installed? -
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Although your Trig 1 voltages seem low, they appear to be clean in all the scopes you have attached - so it will be fine.
...but yeah, it would be nice to have another dizzy just to compare and to have it as spare. -
Yeah... there, for some reason your Trig 1 voltage is lower than other 4A-GE stock triggers I have encountered -- where your Trig 1 voltage peaks touch below the arming threshold.
Adjusting the trigger arming threshold (as per attached below) should remedy that, but try to adjust the gap/clearance of the NE pickup to the teeth. If I remember correctly minimum clearance as per repair manual should be 0.4mm.
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ECU turns off fuel & ignition whenever it loses the engine position due to unstable/unreliable trigger signals.
Could you again take trigger scopes, perhaps on idle and another around 2krpm? -
You can connect additional temp sensors into AN Volt Input - you have to connect a 1KOhm external pullup resistor.
On the still unused Analog Input, select 'GP Temp (Ext Pullup)'. Then select the calibration table you have set for the sensor you installed.
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The dips/peaks seem acceptable. Do you have closed loop idle control on? I'm just trying to guess what you got as you didn't attach your tune file.
If you have the Engine Fan controlled by ECU (triggered by one of the outputs), you can have the 'Engine Fan Idle Up' setup.Sample attached 'Alt Control Target Table' should cover your intended targets for overrun, idle, cruise, & full throttle -- adjust the values as you want them to be.
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You might just need to make adjustments on the 'Alternator Control' PID to make it more responsive to changes in charging voltage. 'Alt Control Target Table' you can also change to 3D so you can have another parameter as qualifier for your target voltage.
As the idle speed is a big factor for alt charging, have you already maximized the following?
Engine Fan Idle Up
Power Steer Idle Up
Gear/Drive Idle Up
GP Idle Up
AC Idle Up
*Most of the above can be assigned to a 'Virtual Aux' that could be triggered by multiple parameters/sources (depending on conditions you set on 'GP Input').'Idle Base Position Table' and 'Idle Target RPM Table' can also be changed to 3D with your choice of another parameter on the Y-axis.
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'First Crank Prime' is just a percentage added to the 'Crank Enrichment' value on first engine rotation (whenever ECU has already detected the trigger sync tooth). You should be able to see the difference in the logged 'Injection Actual PW' during cranking whenever you would change the 'First Crank Prime' percentage.
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AFAIK, only the the AltezzaLink Plugin ECU has the electronics to convert CAN bus data to the Toyota proprietary data bus, so the Altezza gauge cluster would not work with a Monsoon (I also thought about this before, but not possible).
Speed sensor you can connect to a DI so it can be viewed/logged in PCLink. -
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Just as I thought... but it is not clear on the picture how many teeth were ground off... Does all the teeth left have the same heights? What's the air gap to the pickups?
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...24 teeth on trig 1 CAS?
Your triggerscope result does not seem to correspond to any 'stock' CAS pattern of 4A-GE...Can you try another triggerscope?
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Could you confirm (perhaps take a picture) how many teeth in the CAS inside the distributor? Some early 16V 4A-GE (for trig 2) has 4 teeth, later 16V has only 1 tooth.
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Well, it is really hard to tell what's going on as you don't have wideband o2 sensor connected yet on the logs.
...but correct the following on the screenshot below.
*Fuel system type = MAP referenced (as you don't seem to actually have an FP sensor installed).
Injector rated fuel pressure = try 300kpa (this is the usual manufacturer reference fuel pressure on the given flow rate).
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Have you confirmed if your COPs are wired correctly in order of Ign1 to cyl 1, etc. If they're ok, next step is use a timing light as Adam mentioned to confirm if the ignition fires with the pulley TDC marker aligned to 10° BTDC on the timing belt cover.
On my 4A-GE 16V with stock 250cc injectors, (cranking) injector pw is around 14ms (about 30°C ECT/IAT)...
Yours is commanding (cranking) injector pw 16ms with 440cc injectors which I think is way too much. Try to put 12ms master fuel.
...or perhaps change it to modelled (enter your injector details in injector setup), then use my fuel table (not fully tuned) below. -
It just realized that it is based on my old-old map... It still has my engine number on the VIN in configuration page.
Anyway...
1. Try to verify the order of wiring for each of your COPs.
2. Fuel table is for 'modelled', so having to use it for 'traditional' would really make your engine flood.
3. Then also, you might have to make adjustments on your dwell control table (my stock ignition was just triggering CDI box, that's why I can keep the values low on the dwell control table). Try the attached table.
Pin out G4X HC92X for use all output
in G4x
Posted
Ummm... If I may butt in, the way I see it is that you have purchased an ECU with all the specs black & white and that's all you get.
Link has the intellectual property for the PCB pinout diagram which surely they won't give out --- as surely any other ECU manufacturers wouldn't.
Just if ever you figure it out yourself and made modifications on the PCB, be reminded the warranty is invalidated.