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essb00

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Posts posted by essb00

  1. Your engine is on a dizzy, so at 0/180/360/540 it should fire. 
    That you say 180° pickup (from #1 TDC) on the dizzy is G1 --- and that is actually approx. 360° crank angle offset.

    Did you actually verify the trigger offset using a timing light and the trigger offset calibration page?

    Later on, you'll need the correct trigget offset for proper sequential injection and setting up fuel trims, ignition trims, knock control, etc.

  2. 10 hours ago, Xtreme said:

    I had the trigger offset 180deg out

    That's quite unusual, but can be because of the way you have aligned the driven gear in reference to the rotor position when dizzy was pulled out and put back in.

    Normally close to 0° or close to 360° (depending if you used G2 or G1 for Trig2).

  3. 2. Drift on the dwell times is because the idle ignition had to advance/retard -- and the ignition dwell would then not be immediately compensated. That is fairly normal.
    I suggest 8ms from dwell from 7V, then interpolate in between to about 2.5ms at 14V

  4. On 12/23/2023 at 6:25 PM, enginetuner said:

    Hi guys, great to see all the new products released this year can we put this high on the priority list for future development?

    Can based IO expander with built in EGT amplifier, 4 analogue and 4 digital inputs. When you look at something like a VA Impreza plug in, we're very limited on additional inputs with the cars being so IO heavy out of the box. 

    Martyn

    You can try ECUMaster EGT to CAN (up to 8 K-type thermocouples) and ECUMaster CAN Switchboard V3 (8 DI, 8 An Volt, 4 Aux Out).
    Both have been proven to work with Link's CAN --- and CAN stream templates are included with the current PCLink versions.

  5. Idle base position values are too low to sustain target idle speed even with the StartUp Offset values already added. After the StartUp Hold Time & Decay Time has elapsed, then Idle Control turns on and adds idle position to reach target idle.

    You'll have to tune the Idle Base Position values first in Open Loop then get it close to the target idle speed before putting it in Closed Loop (which is meant to correct tiny discrepancies, but not to be relied on to fully correct large ones).

  6. You can try to enable the DI Freq Filter in the GP Speed input... It might help, but if not enough try below:

    I made this RC low-pass filter --- and I have not seen similar fluctuations since I made it. Check out the link below. 
    *You might need to do some trial & error with the capacitor value so that higher speed signals would still be useable. 
     

     

  7. Better if you use a resistor/capacitor to smoothen the reading. Depending on the resistance and capacitance, this however has a longer time before settling to the actual level. Well try combinations, but it would be a compromise between having the correct reading immediately vs level fluctuations on fuel sloshing.

     

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