Link2ThePast

You can use the Mitches auto parts multi core processor thing to control the coolant AC, etc. That’s what I’ve been using. I haven’t gotten Ac to work yet but I think it’s because I’ve wired it incorrectly. I’ve changed it to how I think it should work but I have yet to test

So I got it to connect I think. In RealDash (in the can setup) if I open the can monitor it has a green text string of 0s with an “ed” thrown in there. After loading the .rd file in the zip, no values are actively being displayed. I thought this might be because I didn’t set up the can frames so I went and uploaded a frame description on the PCLink software. I chose one that more closely resembled dash2pro. I think it was “configurable dash” or something. I still don’t have values but I can see the can analyser blinking now and again. It currently only displays the green text when in loop back and loopback silent mode. If I’m in normal or silent mode, I get the “timeout, connecting” text in the can monitor edit: I forgot to mention that it has the xml file from the zip folder as well and that it’s using the Can 1 plug on my XtremeX

Do I need to upload the .rd file in the folder in order to get it to work??

Looks like you were right. I just double checked again and it was too high. I'll try setting up the can profile now to see if I can finally get this to work. I will report back Edit: Looking at the Realdash can example, I don't quite understand what is going on on the ECU setup. Could you explain in a little more detail on how to set the streams up?

I changed the baud rate to 11520. I don’t have it with me at the time of writing this, but I think it was 4 flashes, which was the corresponding number for 11520. Since I did change the bitrate, would that affect anything? I had the same issue even before changing that. When you run the set/start test, does your analyser only send and not receive as well?

Hey Adam, I configured the analyzer to baud of 11520 and then the can Bps to 250kbps as is shown in the the example file you pointed out. I decided to try and test the send receive function as outlined in the instructions that came with the adapter and I see it doesn't receive anything. I can't help but feel that this is the cause of my constant connecting/timeout issue. Any advice you can give me? Here is a snip of what I have in that configurator: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fJXpxLt_EV879Xv9AcIq5Sj7sSUGdeyd/view?usp=sharing

Hi Adam, It's having connection issues. In the can monitor it cycles between a blank screen and: "Timeout Connecting..." It's either the seedstudio adapter/PCLink/Realdash settings or the adapter plug I made. I'm using the CAN 1 plug on the XtremeX ECU instead of wiring it directly to Can2. Before tackling the software side, I want to make sure that the plug is wired correctly. I know the USB cable that's plugged into the android radio works since I could transfer files with it. I used the pinout from this post: It wasn't the same situation but I figured it would give me what I need. This is the back of the male CAN/Tuning cable plug I bought: For me to use it with the Seedstudio can analyzer, I need a wire running from pin 1 (Grnd), Pin 3 (Can +), and Pin 4 (Can -) correct? This is how I currently have it set up with the wires going to the CanAnalyzer's green plug with the screw terminals.

I tried using your XML and copied your CAN settings from the pclink file over to my G4X and it's not working. In the can monitor on Realdash, "It says not connected" and on the next line under it "reconnecting". I know the cable works because I was able to transfer file to the double din. Right now I have the Data Engineers Dream skin; are XML files skin specific? I am having trouble understanding how this whole thing is supposed to work.

Oh ok. I'll see what I can find to help with that process. I appreciate you pointing me in the right direction

Hi Adam, I took the time to research and re-watch the HP academy videos to see what I should look for and what I should concentrate on for initial idle tuning like you said. After disabling ISC control and only editing the fuel base, it's start/warm up compensations, 2 ignition cells, and the base position table, I have the car running at above .9 lambda pretty consistently although with a small bounce. I found another post from a user who has the same thing and another member mentioned the next step is open loop idle. You also mentioned that would be the next step above. If you have the time and it isn't too much trouble, could you let me know if it is safe for me to move on to open loop or still work on idle until I can keep it 1 indefinitely? I really would like to do this safely so I can learn on this engine instead of breaking it immediately and regret getting so excited on getting it running initially that I didn't take the proper steps.

Got it, will do! Thanks Adam!

Hi Adam, I got it to stop dying whenever I come to a stop. I adjusted APS/TPS lockout to 0.2 from 2 / RPM lockout to 2500 / MAP lockout to 15kPa and that seemed to do the trick. This is with the ISC in closed loop from the suggestions you and the other members made above. If you want to take a look at a log of it driving around and the resulting map, I've linked it: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1tjPbOCMEOVSSGdWUL9H7A80KVel4SyJv?usp=sharing Also sorry for forgetting to address the alternator issue you brought up; I installed an underdrive pulley to it but will be taking it off as per your suggestion.

Reporting back. I adjusted the Idle values according to what you guys suggested and put the in the table values from adams snip. It can idle indefinitely now. The next problem I'm facing is that it dies when coming to a stop unless I blip the throttle continuously. I tried adjusting ovverrun fuel cut because I can see it go super lean when I let off throttle; I disabled speed lockout thinking that would help and tried IAT fuel correction when that didn't either. Car still dies. I thought maybe the IAT base position values were too low but that just leans out AFR when I idle and doesn't really help. I tried raising ISC TPS lockout too. I found something similar that was happening with an RX7 on the forum about ignition timing possibly causing the issue. I'll go for a quick drive and post a log.

Hi guys, I'm venturing to learn how to tune after upfitting a turbo to my 3rd gen mr2. I found a Vi-Pec map for this car from another member on the forums on an old post. I edited everything to suit my application but of course copied the main fuel/ignition/Idle speed tables. Right now I am just trying to get the car to idle indefinitely and will then attempt the next steps in the process. Currently, the car cannot hold idle past a couple of seconds. It turns over just fine, and slowly drops in RPM until it dies. Lambda is around .8 when this happens and I've tried adjusting the main fuel thinking its transitioning from the warm up enrichment and I am too lean. It dies every after the same amount of time whether I pull or add fuel to the main. I also noticed that when it does have trouble started, it reports a trigger error but when running I get no such errors (other than the ones from previous failed starts or when it dies). I don't really know where to go from here and am looking for some guidance. I have not touched the following folders: Fuel corrections, Accel enrichment, Overrun, CL lambda, Indiv. Cyl. Fuel corrections, Injector timing, Ignition corrections, Indiv. Cyl. Ignition trim, transient ign. retard AC offset table in "Idle actuator" I've attached the map I hobbled together and linked the log file to a google drive folder: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1tjPbOCMEOVSSGdWUL9H7A80KVel4SyJv?usp=sharing Edit: I forgot to mention that if I blip the throttle, it prevent it from dying 1ZZ turbo log map.pclx

Ok so I figured out what my issue was. I had ignition switch supplying the ECU/external sensors, thinking it worked like the switched power portion of the harness, and had the VVT (+) connected to the switched power. Still don't understand why it backfed but I know it doesn't work like that. For anyone who needs it, here's how I have it connected with everything working now:

ok I have an update. I narrowed the problem down to the VVT solenoid back feeding. The ISC now works. I have it configured as shown in blue. In this state, it is always connected to 12V directly on the (+) side but won't complete the circuit until the ignition is turned on. No fault with the ISC. If I connect the VVT solenoid (+) side to the node shown in blue, I get back feeding and a steady click until ignition is on. I'd like to connect the (+) side to ignition switch power since it is a switched source but it in order for the ISC to work, it also has to be connected to the ignition switch power. The option I had been using before is using the switched battery ( +B ) shown in black, which gets power from the blue node. Before I would not get any power to the solenoid hence the 12V on only one side of the connector. Does anyone see a circuit in the diagram that won't lead to back feeding? Or if I do have it connected as shown, can someone explain why I would have back feeding? Thanks!

Right, I understand that. From how I set this up (with the faults), everything is powered through the main relay which is powered by the ignition switch. What I don't understand is why after bridging that yellow wire, which in the original configuration get's supplied constant 12V through the OEM ECM but not until the main relay is triggered through the ignition switch, is now backfeeding(?) the XtremeX If I have it configured only to get power through switched relay power, wouldn't it power down when the ignition switch is off and the key removed?

Ok so just an update Adam. I tested the connectors and I only got voltage (around 10V) from the ECU side on each connector. So I bridged my main relay (which is also bridged with ignition switched power on the connector box I made) with the yellow wire and it got rid of the faults. I also tested at 10z and tested the pins. Fixed! I have now another issue where I get back feeding if I leave it like this. I'm only guessing since these are solenoids, the ECU did not turn off after ignition was off and the ECU powered off normally when I snipped the wire jumping them. The faults returned of course. I'm trying to figure out how to prevent this myself on the jumper harness side and not mess with the OEM one. Could you take a look at the wiring diagrams I sent and point me in the right direction when you have the time? I of course am going to still try to do this right now. Thanks for the help!

I'll have to get back to you on this one Adam. I have to get a new multimeter since the last one died and stores are closed in the US right now. For now, assuming it's supply with no 12V, then I have to figure that out on the OEM harness/OEM adapter side. Assuming it's AUX wire, what would be the next step?

Hmm. So currently, the VVT solenoid power is bridged with ECU power, as well as the CAN lambda and I forgot what else. If the CAN lambda is getting power, the solenoid should as well right? As for the ISC, if it turns out I'm not getting 12v from pin 2, then should I do something about the yellow wire that I circled? (meaning power it from the ECU power) Or would both not give me 12V in the event there is no supply?

Would you mind explaining why both pins would be 12v for the VVT, just so I understand? Same for pins 1/2 on the ISC plug? I thought both would pull to ground. Does this mean they should both be set to active high side or am I misunderstanding the help file?

Ok so neither one would click when set at 10Hz and test mode set to on(PWM). I'm not sure why either would return the error. My guess for the VVT is that the solenoid is not getting power? Is that why the fault would come on when set to active low side and turns off when set to active high side? Would the same apply to the ISC? There is a PIN that gets eliminated on the jumper adapter I used (yellow wire). Might I need to jump that one with the ecu power? I attached snips of the wiring diagram and circled the relevant lines to make it easier to follow Edit: I added a 4th picture because it shows the line powering the ISC also powering the fuel pump unless I'm reading it wrong

Hi Adam, I'll try it out. No I don't hear any clicking. There is a faint buzzing sound I hear in the bay but I don't think that's what you're talking about and neither solenoid felt like it was moving when I put my hand to them. I'll try putting both tests to on(PWM) at 10Hz to see if I can hear anything. Should I leave them in low side active? Thanks by the way!!

Hi guys, I ran into some trouble with these two outputs on my jumper harness that I made for my mk3 MR2 and can't figure out what is wrong. For the ISC: From what I've gathered, while these valves have 3 pins (12v, ground, auxout), they can be treated like a 2 wire solenoid in PCLink. The stock harness on the MR2 has the plug preconfigured to give it 12v and ground with a single wire for me to operate on the the jumper harness side. Because I think it is operated like a 2 wire solenoid, I have it controlled through AUX 6 on the ExtremeX. I currently have it set its active state to low, but get a fault in the configuration screen unless I put the "test" mode on. I can also remove the fault if I have "test" off and active state set to high side. If I put the "test" on(PWM), I get an error with either low side or high side active state. For the VVT solenoid: I have the same issue as with the ISC. I think the 1zz only has an inlet solenoid, so inlet bank 1 is the one I have configured. I did not touch the exhaust bank 1. Currently it is on AUX 1 and set as low side active state with a fault in the configuration page. I get the same results as above. I have attached the setup pages for both. This is with the car off, I have not started it with the ISC configured. When I had it running (pretty terribly and NA) I still had the fault on the VVT if I remember correctly. Any help/guidance would be greatly appreciated. I'm finishing up outfitting a turbo and I'd like to try and get it running just enough to drive it to a tuner friend who offered to teach me.

Hey Tiz, you still have that basemap? I'm trying to get my 1zz running to practice tuning for when I drop a 2zz in its place