Link2ThePast

Thanks for getting back to me you guys. I do have a few more questions stemming from the answers now though. 1) I thought so as well, but why does the Help file suggest having open loop correction on? To do so, I'd have to change to traditional. 2)Would setting the CLL mode to Off in Modelled-Multi Fuel have the same effect as having open loop correction on in the Traditional model? That makes sense. Thanks for the insight. I should've been more clear, I was referring to if I changed to a traditional model. But based on your previous answers I see it is now unnecessary. Thanks for that tidbit! That didn't occur to me that might be the case 3) So %Ethanol is a literal % but MultiFuel Blend is relative %; similar to MGP and MAP yes? Good to hear my laziness is actually effective this time; this is exactly what I was planning to do.

Hi guys, I've watched the HPA TPS+Map webinar a couple times and searched to try and find a detailed enough answer but I haven't been satisfied with them enough to be able to come up with a conclusion on my own. I have fitted 20V blacktop throttles to a Toyota 2zz engine that was previously boosted a/ running flex fuel; ECU is an ExtremeX. Because of this, the previous fuel model is set to "modelled-multifuel". The engine is still boosted as well. I've read through the link help file and it suggests the same as HPA does in the TPS+Map webinar with the R32: TPS as y axis on the main fuel table, Lambda target with MAP/MGP as the Y axis, and then tune on open loop; As per the help file, this requires the Traditional fuel model. From what I've read, Alpha N is TPSvsRPM so Fuel main isn't an issue but it leads to my first question: 1) What options do I have for the X axis for lambda target? I know RPM but is there a reason to look at any others? If so, what are the advantages and disadvantages. Additionally, I was doing some searching, and I also saw that I could do a secondary fuel table in Link. This pulls up the option to use interpolation between a full e-85 (2nd table) and pump gas (main fuel table). I'm assuming for the 2nd fuel table, it's TPSvsRPM as well but with values (for a tank full of E85) to get to 1 lambda. As for the ignition tables, I suspect I need 1 for pump gas and a secondary one for E85. 2) I'm confident that this is the best option but if not, please explain an a better alternative and why my assumption is wrong. Moving on from that, it also brings up an additional table "Fuel table ratio". In the help file it mentions a typical axis with %Ethanol, Multifuel blend ratio, or some other analog variable. It says it controls the influence between ignition table 1 and 2, with values ranging from 0-100; where 0=Ignition 1 with full control, 100=Ignition 2 with full control, and 50 being split evenly. The table is also a single row. (I'm interpreting these as %Offset or something similar to that) I'm certain that I'll need both considering I need to interpolate since ethanol allows greater timing advance but this leads to my next few questions: 2) For the ratio table, what would be the best choice for the axis? %Ethanol or Multi Fuel Blend? 3) Would my values just be different ethanol percentages ranging from 0-100? How fine should they be? Would the %Offset just follow those values equally? (please see attached snip) Thanks in advance (pun not intended) https://imgur.com/a/49a0aMx

Sorry I must admit I only skimmed your initial response. I can see that you explained above, though admittedly I am unsure if I see it now more clearly because of your second explanation, so I appreciate the detail Adam.

Thanks for responding Adam. I was doing some testing in the meantime and I came to the same conclusion. Kinda weird that it just shuts it off on the final step instead of powering it so that it returns. Any reason for that? For anyone else wondering how I fixed it: it was indeed the return issue. I had my turnbuckle set up in the accidental 1 in a million position where it would lock at fully extended. It would only return if there was an initial torque to return it. Manual calibration wouldn’t work; I tried that as well. i ended up just rotating the arm on the S54 actuator 180 degrees from the stock position and run no spring on it. It works perfectly now.

Hi guys, looking for some guidance and possibly a solution. I've finished adapting a BMW S54 throttle actuator to my 2zz and am using it to drive 4age blacktop throttles. The throttles are unmodified and have their return springs intact. The same can be said with the actuator. Currently when trying to calibrate the TPS, the system starts to go through the process, completes the first closed/opened sweep of the throttle plate. At the end, the test says that it's closing the TB again but doesn't, and it give the message that H-Bridge polarity is reversed. This happens regardless if I change the output state to high or low for aux9. I was previously using the same wiring setup to drive a stock E-throttle so I know the wiring isn't the issue on the ECU side. I've switched the sensor pins on the TPS plug because it was originally opening the throttle when the calibration was closing it and that fixed that error but I am stuck at what to do. Any help would be greatly appreciated I've scoured the internet trying to figure out what the issue is here and only came across this post which describes exactly what I am experiencing: https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/13879-tps-calibration-issues/ I just made a log and will be going through that in the mean time. Here is the link for the Log and Cal. Log is dated for todays date in PST and the cal is named "itb e throttle" https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1CiPYR6NEtvaxv4rIjn_7SoY6Vur5pgp1?usp=sharing

I'm not sure how it is for the Evo but on my car, I had to splice into each abs/wheel speed sensor since my dash only gets an average wheel speed value. If yours is anything like mine, you'll have to do the same to get all 4 into the ECU individually. To do that, you first have to check if the speed sensors are hall or reluctance sensors. I don't have experience with hall sensors but, on my car, the abs/speed sensors were reluctance (just two wires). If yours are reluctance, you'll need to buy two of these; one for the front and one for the rear: https://sirhclabs.com/product/vr-to-hall-sensor-converter-dual-channel/ This converts the sine signal to a square wave used in hall which the ecu likes. Just splice into the existing abs/speed sensor wiring and then hook them up to the inputs of that board. Each sensor will get it's own +/- input on that board, don't mix them. The outputs will go to a DI on the ECU. 5v and sensor ground also go to the board. You'll also have to do some number crunching for the speed calibration, this'll also make gear detection available. The explanation for that is in the PCLink help file, "Speed Sources" in the "Chassis and Body" section. If there is an abs ring on your driveshafts, you'll have to count the number of teeth, you'll use that in the equation. You also need wheel diameter, not just the rim but the rim and tire. Luckily, you're AWD with 4 driveshafts, I had to tear apart a whole wheel bearing assembly to get the front teeth count on my car lol.

Appreciate the input gentlemen! Looks like I'm taking a trip to the junkyard in the future. Brad, that atpower unit looks similar to the one that efihardware has. That E46 was the exact one I was looking to use, did you modify the throttles by removing the return springs at all? Ideally I'd like to find a good maxon combination as the manifold I designed sits pretty close to the engine and, since it's going in the mk3 mr2, space is tight even with a firewall cut.

When I was first looking into this, it looked like the stock blacktop TPS was dual tracking, but I wouldn't be surprised if I misunderstood the diagram below and made an incorrect assumption. https://imgur.com/a/2XTeuIf Wow that thing looks wicked! Thanks for the input Adam! I tried to use the one you posted as an example and noticed the 437994 is a configuration number. The motor in that config. is rated for a nominal voltage of 42 Volts. Was this chosen purposefully to lower the stall current? I did find the 23:1 ratio listed, so could the 12v being too low for that specific motor perhaps be why it was not operating as fast? This is proving to be a lot more involved than I thought!

Hi all, I am currently planning to control my ae111 throttles with a brushed, geared DC Motor. I plan to use the M+/M- terminals used on my current e-throttle setup to drive it and use the TPS currently present on the throttles. Is this possible? I was originally going to use either BMW actuator or custom GM one that efi hardware offers but because of space constraints, I am looking to use bare hardware for this. From some research I have done, I think it'll work but I just wanted to get some extra reassurance from others.

Has anyone successfully set up a Can Aux through realdash? I've finalised the dash and the last couple things I want to do is activate indicators for both cruise enable and cruise active. I don't quite understand how these would work but I thought maybe I would be able to transmit a value similar to how the knock detected is transmitted in Adam's example. Since I couldn't add CAN Aux status/Freq/duty in the frames on the ECU side, I instead thought of returning Link specific values. My thinking is that I could set the two lights to virtual Aux 1/2 and then return those in frame id 4 and then assign the value in real dash according to if the value is 1 or 0. Do I have this right? Also if I do it this way, I do not need to add anything in the streams right? I included a link the my google drive folder, the XML file named Virtual Aux is the one I plan on using if anyone can take a look at it. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1CiPYR6NEtvaxv4rIjn_7SoY6Vur5pgp1?usp=sharing

You could try using a usb splitter to get the 2 ports you want for charging and the data transfer

https://linkecu.com/products/ecu-comparison-chart/ You can use that chart to see what features your ecu has. I think you are talking about the internal wideband o2 controller, there is no internal sensor. Anyway if it is the controller you are talking about I think the internal and external ones are only compatible with Bosch LSU49 5pin sensors. Idk how you're getting it to even read anything...

Sorry about that. Should be fixed

Forgot to attach the folder link: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Z95RXJ0FQbT0jo7N5H1m26pMGTbPWAqb?usp=sharing

I will take a look at the mode configuration when that board arrives. It does say it's specifically for VR abs sensors and produces a 1:1 output but in square wave instead of AC. Could you explain why the 5v is attached with a node to the input of the 4024 chip and speed sensor input in the diagram above? I had an EE friend try and help me set up my circuit with the 4520 and adapt the one shown above but we are both confused by that. Wouldn't the chip see a constant voltage at the input like that? Is it to control the max amplitude of the square wave? Edit: Also, I think I have the circuit figured out for the 4520 chip (assuming the board with the max9926 outputs a square wave similar to what can be accepted by a 4024 chip). Can you take a look at it? It's the "CD4520BE circuit for ECU" picture

Cost and time. The dual input/output board and a few chips would cost a little over half the cost of four of the Vems device that is out of stock.

Hey Adam, So I found a board that converts from VR to Hall but does not include the counter circuit so it's a 1:1 conversion. It has two inputs (a +/- for both) and two outputs. https://sirhclabs.com/product/vr-to-hall-sensor-converter-dual-channel/ I also found these counter chips from digikey that appear to have a dual input/output as well: https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data Sheets/NXP PDFs/HEF40240B.pdf Is my estimation of the circuit correct for a dual input/output application? I do not know where the resistor would fit into this. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Z95RXJ0FQbT0jo7N5H1m26pMGTbPWAqb?usp=sharing Pictures of the chip pin description and my understanding of the chip logic are in that folder.

Could I also just use this circuit instead of the one listed here? Does that little controller need a PCB or can I wire directly to the pins without issue

If my calibration number is around 3250, is this dongle alone enough? (I am only estimating. I have not gotten a chance to count the abs teeth for the front/rear yet) I noticed in the product description it can only go down a minimum of 1/8.

Adam, is there a maximum tooth count I that you've found to be usable with this? I'd need 4 of these for 4 different speed inputs correct? I'm still trying to educate myself on these frequency dividers and it looks like this would be a compact option to splice into my ABS sensor circuit for each wheel.

Lol dang. I'll keep messing with it

If it is the same one, and comes from the speedo, does that mean it is already filtered and I do not need the pull up resistor? I was messing with it yesterday to try and get a signal and got a reading for a quick second before it went to 0. To be honest I'm not sure what I did to get it...

The thing is that for the MK3, the gearbox doesn't have a speed sensor and as far as I know that comes from the ABS ecu. I haven't found a post yet determining what exactly the signal is. Is there a good way to measure that so I can use it for the link? It is not clear whether it is driven or undriven wheel speed. Could I assign it as either one in PC link?

Any update on this? I also have a mk3 MR2 and want to have a speed input into my g4x for launch control. (Maybe traction control?) But I'm confused as to the actual process that the signal goes through. I was looking at the wiring diagrams and thought it went: ABS sensors -> ABS ECU -> Speedo -> ECU (LINK) Also in G4X, in "speed sources", It looks like I need to have a separate sensor for each wheel but the stock harness only has the one wire for a speed sensor input going into the stock ecu. To avoid having to wire in separate sensors and adding in a voltage divider(? I can't remember what it is called), would I use that one wire, put it in GP Speed 1 and then calibrate it? Would I then be able to set that same GP speed 1 input as FR FL RR RL wheel speeds? If the above were true, in "setup" of "speed sources", I could use either driven or driving wheel speed source and not need both correct? Would this be a problem for launch control if I were to break traction?

I found this and gave it a read through. Looks like you do exactly as you expected lol I'd agree that oil pressure is probably the more important of the two