mike2016

got it. will give more derivative next test. I've seen tunes where P is much higher with also very high D. does it have the same effect? such as P = 1, D = 15

Trying to improve boost control a bit. How do you get rid of that initial boost spike when it reach target? it overshot 10kpa (target 260kpa) Boost seems to drop slightly as RPM climbs. how much of an effect on spool up between 75% and 90% Stage 1 ?

got it. might have to use thicker oil. using 5w-40 now. at idle oil pressure is only 26-30 psi will increase integral a bit and see what happens.

I remember seeing the recommended setting somewhere and had it set accordingly. I noticed the VVT is a bit slow to reach target, but it stays on target after it's reached. is this normal behavior?

Is it wiser to have stage 3 activate a bit sooner than what's in the help file, to stabilize the boost a bit sooner? i've been messing with boost control for a while, it seems no matter what setting i have in P/D, it would oscillate a bit until it reach stage 3

Thanks Adam. So this module is solely for driving the DBW motors. The TPS / APS / TPS sensors will just be connected directly to the ECU normally.

sorry to bring back an old thread. i'm working on DBW for a RB26 as well. Running Plug-in G4X. so if i purchase the E-throttle module instead of sending the board back to Link, what would the wiring be like with the module?

[img]https://i.imgur.com/bbDTMhZ.jpg[/img] Adam, is this a good starting point?

what's a better way to set up the charge temp table for RB26? I'm more biased towards MGP, as charge temp becomes less influenced by the surrounding heat when it's getting pressurized or there's more air flow. If in TPS mode, charge temp doesn't seem to have much of change, if any, let's say 100% TPS at 2000RPM.

Perfect!! in this case a lockout is not needed, as long as it calculates start up fuel properly.

Yea this explains why hot start is more problematic. Port is already wet and it dumps more fuel. For example a quick stop at gas station or Starbucks. 9 out of 10 times it wouldn’t start properly.

only 5%. i've tried lowering crank enrichment and it doesn't change much. sometimes it starts perfectly fine, sometimes it takes a few extra cranks and barely starts with a lot of fuel. since this setting is a way to compensate accel fuel, maybe it deserves its own lock out?

hope you guys are alright in NZ. just wondering if there's a plan for a lockout setting for "wall wetting compensation" in the next release? i've been doing some experiments, it seems to help smooth out the accel fuel quite a bit, but start up is always unpredictable. it sometimes adds too much fuel and makes start up difficult or even foul the plugs. i had an old thread about this a while ago. by taking out fuel from cold start doesn't help, as the fuel added by wall wetting is unpredictable, it doesn't always add fuel.

Thanks so much for that. will definitely give it a try! i should have some 1N4001 laying around. caps and resistors should be easy to salvage from old electronics

LOL.... it is still somewhat an indication of speed moving up and down? haha i checked the tune file again, GP Speed wasn't sent to any source. and there's no driving speed source defined. the Idle control wasn't getting any speed input at all.... Can I set Driving Wheel Speed and Driven Wheel Speed both to GP Speed 1? the engine fan needs speed input but it only looks up "Driven Wheel Speed".

yea that's the problem with R32. the AC fan is also going on and off. you mentioned there's a coming release that can potentially fix this issue with mechanical speedo. maybe i can do a beta test?

Having a little issue with idle ignition i think. this is with AC on. at low rpm the timing is so low because idle ignition is in control, and the car is so slow. i was doing some static runs and caught one. around the 1:00 mark in the log. thats where it happened. the RPM jumps up all of a sudden when timing is recovered. Map https://1drv.ms/u/s!AoVH0biO2kWCifNYIkid8K8J3QsHnQ?e=9JS7QI Log https://1drv.ms/u/s!AoVH0biO2kWCifF6hHyMzv9IieNp6g?e=tCFuzQ

Adam, can this be a solution to R32 with mechanical speedo? the speedo output from cluster to ECU is not usable at all.

I wasn't able to replicate the same issue i did however try to clamp off different air hoses and found no difference in idle. another thing i can think of is the "air regulator" - i'm not sure if it's even connected. as the previous shop who did my car bypassed the FP speed module, not sure if they took out the air regulator circuit with it. my fuel pump is powered by just the fuel pump relay AUX 6 now. i'll have to verify if there's power at the air regulator. AUX 1 is unused, and AUX 2 is used for VVT solenoid the air regulator is like a mechanical thermostat ?... big change in air temp / engine temp will probably cause it to somehow change its position if it's not powered?

haven't had a chance to investigate the hardware yet but... https://www.dropbox.com/s/z5xzk2iztigb5p0/PC Datalog - 2021-06-14 7%3B15%3B19 pm.llgx?dl=0 from this log. it seems like the "idle valve" is offset by the idle ignition ? (idle valve at 10% but idle ignition increased to bring idle rpm up to target) does either idle ignition or idle valve have priority as who controls the idle first before the other ?

yea that's what i meant to say, if there's a leak, it should be leaking somehow, regardless what temp the engine is at. so it's not temp related. and if there's an apparent leak, it's pretty noticeable to the ears, which I don't notice any. i think i can rule out the leak for now and just focus on the TB and idle valve. I'll try to play with the adjustment screw and see how it affects the idle base position. i think 10% DC is quite a bit lower than usual? the previous shop had the idle setting on open loop and probably messed with the adjustment screw to set the idle.

if its a split hose or air leak somewhere, it should always leak somehow regardless of temp? this low idle issue is new, the car gets hot like this every time i drive. never had this issue before. i'm going to focus on the idle valve and do some investigation. all the hoses are new OEM, and i just worked on the car over the weekend, if there's anything off visually i would've caught it... what does the idle valve screw have in relation to the DC% in the ECU?

Here's another log from today. Idle valve is at 10% at 50C and up ECT.... does Idle valve duty change drastically when ECT is higher?? doesn't make any sense. https://www.dropbox.com/s/z5xzk2iztigb5p0/PC Datalog - 2021-06-14 7%3B15%3B19 pm.llgx?dl=0

maybe a bad idle valve that was stuck and now it somehow "fixed" itself? the throttle are new OEM RB26 ITBs. there's absolutely no change on the car that would affect airflow....

changing idle setting to default Link base map setting. will test soon.