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INSW20

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Posts posted by INSW20

  1. I tried running my 3sgte and another 3sgte on the stock sensor and it saturates the input (aka knock control becomes useless after a certain rpm and MAP).  Swap to a Bosch donut for more reliable and useful knock signal.

     

    http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/xrf/gshp/products_id/4518?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwuJ2xBhA3EiwAMVjkVNdLZLrzikQx3wQzBTUnt02IC3R80bi5IamVGhI2KTR8Z4DgRlankRoC5_4QAvD_BwE

     

    I wired it to the single knock signal wire and then to the stud for ground.  Maybe not perfect, but seems to read well, and consistent.

     

     

    45C96098-B09F-427F-870D-83D286BA1578.jpeg

  2. I have been looking at logs recently, and noticed that even when Knock Global increases, Knock Level is capped at exactly 1000*Knk Level Gain.  In this case, the gain is at 0.53, 4cyl using a distributor.  Is this normal?

    The car is currently running 100 octane race gas, with what should be fairly reasonable ignition timing for 91 pump gas.

     

    image.thumb.png.c6a7d23d59f778006f87c76c55f92a57.png

  3. 18 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    Looking at your map, your pre-crank prime is extraordinarily high for a hot start.  

    As a test, can you try dropping the highlighted region down to about 10ms.  See if that help or makes it worse.  If it makes it worse then I would lean towards the issue being related to injector atomisation. 

    NMnN4Ji.png

    Yes, I should have mentioned I also pulled out almost all hot pre-crank prime and reduced hot crank enrich. That also helped a lot.  Thanks!

  4. Update:  seems like injector timing was a big part of my issue.  I have since updated to the following:

    image.png.36610821745b34200c5abe4b20c4e367.png

    Cold starts are still great, and hot restarts are very nearly as good; a HUGE improvement.  I am now blending down and testing "warm" 130-140F restarts, but seems like it's moving in the right direction.

  5. Yep, that does help, I guess I was hoping for clarification where it says "the first time the key is turned to the start position."  If I leave the key in the "run" position after it dies, does it prime again when I go to "start" or does it skip that since it's no longer the first time the key is turned to the start position on that key cycle.

    I ended up removing basically all of the pre-crank prime when hot and it seemed to like that a lot more.  Thank you!

  6. Does pre-crank prime only occur on the first crank after a key-on?  So if I key-on a hot engine, then go to crank, it primes, then chugs to life, dies, and then I crank again, there is not a second pre-crank prime?

  7. 9.13.2023 - hot restart in garage.llg5sgte - 9.13.2023 - playing with hot restart.pclr9.13.2023 - hot restart in garage number 2.llg

    Added a couple heat-soaked logs and my latest tune file.  It "seems" like it kind of wants more prime pulse and crank enrich, but I would appreciate any input you folks have.  My cold starts are AWESOME.  My hot restarts it kind of chugs to life, sometimes it will die and then start right up on the second cranking attempt.

  8. I'm struggling to wrap my head around the best strategy for hot restart.  IAT sensor is about 3" pre-throttle body in my charge piping.  I had read previously that enabling IAT fuel trim and adding fuel in the 0% TPS "hot soaked" cells would help significantly with hot restart, but I'm still struggling.

    More recently, someone commented that charge temp approx is a much better method for fueling hot restarts.  Any suggestions appreciated.  It seems to me like it wants more fuel on hot restarts.

    5sgte - 8.17.2023 rev1.pclr

  9. 22 hours ago, Vaughan said:

    Your log shows gear ratio values of ~125, 70, 45, 33 and I don't think I saw a 5th ratio where your basemap shows ratios of 130, 75.3, 51.1, 36.6 and 29.2.

    I would recommend taking a short log of you driving steadily in each gear and repopulating your gear ratio table with the appropriate Gear Ratio Calc runtime values from that log

    Yep, that seems to have fixed it.  Per usual, it's user error on my part.  =)

  10. My Gear Status seems to drop out frequently, especially during acceleration.  My road speed seems to show consistently, so I don't think it's a sensor dropout, but I've been wrong before.  5sgte with E153 transmission, using a hall effect cruise sensor wired to DI4.

     

  11. I think I was experiencing the driver issue.  I ran the driver installation program and it connected immediately.  I also was using the Belkin adapter, which I'll leave in the car now.

  12. 1 hour ago, Adamw said:

    Do you have oil pressure, GP Limit 1 or Ign cut logged?  Your GP Limit 1 looks a bit optimistic for hot oil pressure around the idle area to me.  

    I have oil pressure logged, at the blip attempt oil pressure is at 45psi, puts the limiter at about 5000rpm.  Hot idle oil pressure is about 26-28psi at 1000rpm.  Unfortunately my ECU log doesn't have GP limit 1 or Ign cut logged.

    image.png.1b5c6a6c99098d38cf94bea9d594c33b.png

  13. Am I sucking too much fuel off the port walls before I blip my throttle?  Or what else am I doing wrong?  Usually my blips are just fine, but on my drive home today (~40 miles) I had two instances after some engine braking where I had no throttle response.  Tach stayed running the entire time, so I don't think it was trigger related.

    First time I was engine braking down a hill, got to the bottom and eased back onto throttle and had zero response. (no log available, ECU log filled up)

    Second time I was trying to blip for a downshift and had a dead pedal.  Engine didn't try to die, just didn't pick up.  Pretty sure this spot in the log was it.

    image.thumb.png.f5c8cff8bbc158d2aacc685354cf5cd2.png

    5sgte - 2.13.2023.pclr

  14. To close the loop on this one, I wired in my cruise sensor to DI4, and ended up turning pullup On to get it to read, for anyone else considering doing this.  Now I just need to calibrate against GPS.   So far so good!

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