SkyEyes
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Posts posted by SkyEyes
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4 minutes ago, Adamw said:
It is set to bosch in your map. It should be set to Delphi AC IAT.
I'll make the change and see how the car performs. Thanks!
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22 hours ago, Adamw said:
Are you sure the IAT is reading correctly? It starts off at 19°C which is the same as the coolant temp before it is started, but then as the engine warms up, your coolant increases to about 95°C which is normal, but your IAT drops to 7°C? It seems a bit unbelievable if to have IAT at 7°C when the engine bay would be 80+, unless it has an ice box charge cooler or similar?
Once you confirm that, the other settings you should change is turn off the IAT correction table and put some realistic values in the charge temp approximation table - the example table in the help file is a good starting point for most.
I wasn't able to drive the car this morning, but I was able to start it and play with settings before I had to go to work. I disabled IAT correction and set up the charge temp approximation table. I did do a preliminary temperature comparison using an IR temperature gun and the temp reading was within 5C of what I was reading on the intercooler pipe. My plan is to remove the sensor and measure resistance as I heat it up somehow. It's a standard GM NTC IAT sensor.
This is where I have my IAT sensor.
Is this a less than ideal location? I can move it, but if I put it in the intake, I'd have a problem finding a sensor that would reach deep enough to actually sit in the airflow.
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I'll preface this entire post with the fact that I'm trying to learn, and don't know all that much about tuning.
I'm having a perplexing issue happen where the car will idle fine shortly after starting and reaching normal temp, but after driving for about 20 minutes, my AFR at idle will become richer and as a result my idle will be higher. This is still my "initial" tune, so I have lambda adjustment turned off, as I'm trying to get my fuel table straight before letting the software correct it. There is also a period of rough idle for about 30-45 seconds after start that's presented the last two times I've started the car (with no change to tune or hardware).
Trying to fit time in to keep driving the car and playing around with the tune but my job keeps eating my time and I'm getting frustrated and confused.
Any help would be great! My data log file and my tune can be found here at the link below. I should have more time to drive the car this coming weekend to try and get mor data.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/b1foezp12c3894m/AABzNyT-q4VH-TBGxsGMH5l1a?dl=0
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3 minutes ago, Adamw said:
The only thing I would try is turning off the OBD as well. It shouldn't make any difference if no device is requesting OBD2 data but possibly their gauge is at the same time. But if that doesnt solve it I suspect they have something wrong with their code and you will have to discuss with them. I can give you a CAN log of some example generic dash stream data if they want something to test with.
Thanks but it would be a waste. They recently stopped supporting aftermarket ECUs, and I didn’t find that out until I bought their gauge and then tried to get it working. That is what drove the firmware update I had to do (more like a reversion back to support my Link) I’m thinking I’m going to end up going with a Link CAN gauge here soon but this one will get me rolling again. In the mean time I’ll deselect OBD.
Love all the help from you guys on this forum!
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32 minutes ago, Adamw said:
No it should read exactly what it is being sent. How are you sending the data?, it sounds like possibly it has not locked on to the correct frame in a compound message.
I set it up as a generic dash per their instructions at 1Mb/s at 20hz. Physically I tee'd off the CAN Lambda for wiring. The gauge is a Banks iDash https://bankspower.com/collections/idash-digital-monitor?gclid=CjwKCAjwiOCgBhAgEiwAjv5whHx3ErinbKuq0fjGa8WL6vey2Yc8rhBHleuY_GKRwnixZxtd_zsWfRoCe1wQAvD_BwE
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Is it common to have noise on CAN devices? I noticed that my CAN Gauge is showing fluctuations between -50C all the way up to +900C. I currently have it set to 20Hz, and it was less severe at a lower rate (10Hz and 5Hz) but I don't know if having it set that low will be bad or not.
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Thanks! The harness I made had the Can H and Can L wires incorrectly pinned. Found, fixed, and all good. I had high going to green, because the gauge I bought has green as H and white as L.
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9 hours ago, Adamw said:
You don’t need to copy anything. If you specifically want to use that old map then just load it into the ecu and it will be updated. Otherwise if the same map is already in the ecu then just save a fresh copy. The map will only show the functions that existed in the ecu that it came out of.
I resaved the file, no longer getting the dialogue box.
Double verified that I am running 6.23.6
Oxygen Sensor is heating. Still no luck finding the CAN Lambda, so I'm guessing the issue is communication. I'll doublecheck all my wires here in a bit to make sure everything is where it needs to be.
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7 minutes ago, Adamw said:
You shouldnt get that message if you are connecting o an ecu with current firmware or a map from one. You would only get that message if you are opening an old map or an ecu with old firmware.
No, put your hand on the sensor. The ecu isn't going to tell you anything if you dont have coms.
Ok, then my issue is that I'm opening an old map. I'll copy everything over to a new map tomorrow, as well as get the car on stands and check if the sensor is heating.
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40 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Are you still getting CAN errors? If you leave the ign switch on for 5 minutes, is the sensor getting hot?
The only message I can think of that reads similar to that is related to the new gear shift control function, that message would suggest you dont have recent firmware though. Can you give us a pic of the message and go to >help>ecu information and tell us what firmware version it has. Not related to your lambda issue but still something to confirm.
This is the warning box. According to the ECU, I have 6.23.6 firmware installed (I updated from 6.18.11). I just installed the newest version of PCLink on my new laptop, and updated my ECU from that. I wasn't sure if that warning was popping up because the tune file was made in an older version of PCLink?
As far as sensor warm-up, I'll try to verify that ASAP. I'm assuming you want me to check Lambda 1 Temperature under ECU status?
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On 3/16/2023 at 9:19 PM, Adamw said:
Yeah unplug that gauge, it is likely using a different bitrate. The CAN lambda will usually be fine with only the one end of the bus terminated.
If you know the bitrate the gauge is using you can re-program the CAN lambda to match.
Unfortunately unplugging the gauge didn't change anything. I still cannot find the CAN Lambda when I try and search for it. Could there be some kind of incompatibility between the tune file and firmware? Every time I open the tune I get a box that tells me some features aren't available (nothing related to my CAN issue) because the file is too old. I just updated the firmware a few days ago. The previous version was from 2021 (don't remember the exact software version number).
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I do have a CAN gauge also hooked up. I did the install with the CAN lambda at the same time. I'm working with their manufacturer to update its firmware to support aftermarket ECUs (mine came with the wrong FW, so I just need to update it), so it isn't ready yet but it is hooked up. I can remove it from the system, but it is my end point termination resistor.
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Ok, I have updated to Firmware 6.23.6. I am still unable to find the Link Can Lambda. The Link no longer shows a value for lambda, and am still getting errors when viewing the CAN page in runtime values. Bus Warning and Bus Off are cycling between Ok and ERROR.
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46 minutes ago, Vaughan said:
I'm assuming it is a Link CAN Lambda, attach a copy of your tune please.
My tune file is too large to upload. I have to go to work right now but I'll work on trying to get it posted a different way. Yes I am using a Link CAN-Lambda unit.
Please tell me if this worked.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/29w140lyskqjlt0/03152023 Rev 1.pclx?dl=0
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Hello,
Searched the forums in hopes that something in the past would help me solve my issue but nothing has yet.
I just installed a CAN Lambda in my 944 Turbo. I'm trying to get the Link to see it in the CAN setup window but no matter what I try, I can't get it to populate.
I double checked that I am getting switched 12v to the CAN Lambda connector.
When powered on, the CAN Hi will read 3.5v and the CAN Low will read 1.9v.
I quadruple checked that my mode setting were as directed in the instructions, applied the changes, and stored them to the ECU.
I also set lambda 1 from the old AN VOLT 4 to CAN Lambda.
I checked in the runtime values window, and it just lists lambda 1 as off, with no errors.
Any other paths to a solution would be greatly appreciated!
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Very interesting. My 14v dead time is .801, so I’m actually not very far off. Would there be a benefit to lowering this, then? Not sure if I was understanding a previous post of yours correctly where you said “if you don’t understand how it works, set it to 0”. I can find linearity charts, but they offer pretty low resolution, and I don't really know what I'm looking at.
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I'm in the process of driving the car around on the initial map for the first time and noticed that I keep getting a warning about injectors clamped on minimum settings. As I've been searching the internet trying to get the data for my specific injectors (to verify, I had the data initially but couldn't find the file again), I noticed that while close, the data entered in my file is slightly off of what I'm finding on injector data sheets. Is "Minimum Effective Pulsewidth" the same as "Minimum Linear Pulsewidth" on the data chart? Not sure how significant a .85MS difference could prove to be once tuning progresses.
(Current settings below)
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5 hours ago, Adamw said:
It sounds like you've got a ground offset coming from somewhere, like sensor ground is coupled to chassis ground somewhere or similar. It may be ok to just set the deadband high enough to ignore it but it is hard to know whether that is going to make it too insensitive to actual throttle movement. You will have to try it and see.
Could it be because I have pins 25 and 34 grounded at the same point?I discovered the problem. It had to do with what I tied into the sensor ground circuit. My mistake but it is fixed now and my TPS percentage remains at 0.0 unless I depress the gas pedal. -
For testing purposes I removed the TPS from the throttle body, but left it connected to the harness. For some reason I am seeing TPS percentage go from 0.0 to between 0.3 and 0.5 once the engine is running.
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Thank you Adam. I'll apply the change and see what it does.
I'll also thoroughly inspect the throttle cable and double check TPS indexing on the throttle body. Could a bad ground be the cause for seeing an immediate change to TPS as soon as I start the engine? When I built the harness I grounded the TPS to pin 24.
I attached another short log of engine start.
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I'm having an issue where my acceleration enrichment is causing my injector pulsewidth to vary quite a bit, resulting in incredibly rich idle.
My current settings are:
We have discovered that with the throttle fully closed, PCLink still shows .4-.5 for TPS. I re-calibrated the TPS just to make sure that it was properly set, but that didn't change what we are seeing.
For some reason, acceleration enrichment is going crazy. I'm not sure if I'm understanding the settings incorrectly, but I thought it was set so that it was within the deadband threshold. I'll attach the datalog and current file as well.
If I deactivate acceleration enrichment, or change it to MAP, my pulsewidth smooths out immediately and lambda comes up.
It is also worth mentioning that with the engine off, TPS will read 0.0, but as soon as the engine starts I'll see a reading between .2 and .4 for TPS.
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Just recently got it back up and running on a Monsoon-X!
It was my first time building an entire harness and getting everything set-up with minimal help. It has been a great experience so far, and the car is already running better than on its previous standalone!
Can’t say enough about the support offered here by both staff and other members. Hope to keep on learning!
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I drove my car today for the first time after changing over to my Link Monsoon-X. I was amazed at how, even in the rudimentary initial tune and tables, it already behaved significantly better than my previous standalone set-up (especially on part throttle driveability).
I look forward to getting the system further dialed in, but so far it was worth every single penny.
Also the Link support here is fantastic, thanks!
AFR randomly gets richer after driving for ~20 minutes?
in G4x
Posted
Those changes seem to have made the car run significantly better! Now to fine tune part throttle and figure out why it surges, thank you!