Mach

I discussed today with the firmware engineers.  It seems there is some variation in the timing of the edges received on the cam trigger.  We are not sure if this is a sensor/electrical issue or camshaft acceleration from loose belt or valve springs etc.  Of course 3Cyl with only 3 teeth on the cam is the worst case as the ecu is only getting a position update every 240degs of crankshaft rotation.  When the ecu receives an edge earlier or later than was predicted based on the time between the last 2 edges then it has to stretch or shrink dwell to ensure the spark occurs at the correct angle.
A couple of examples below.  Edges should be 0/240/480/600/720.  You can see at idle it is pretty close.  But at 2300RPM there is 5deg error on one edge.
Idle:
 
 
2300RPM:

 
Vaughan also noticed your older trigger scopes have a higher voltage on trigger 1 and a much sharper waveform.  Example below - old engine on left. 
From memory you may have had the OEM ecu piggy back?  Can you try adding a 1kohm pull-up resistor between 5V and trigger 1 to see if that makes the waveform more accurate.

Is the new engine completely factory or does it have changes like a different cam or a lightweight flywheel?

E07Z trigger mode.(https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/13923-trigger-setup-honda-3-cylinder-engine/)
Especially, it has most error (over 30%) between 1800~2500 rpm, and +10~20% dwell time at higher rpm.
At idling there is little error.
Attach trigger scope.
                                (Dwell time / Table)
- 2300rpm ; +30% (4.3ms / 3.3ms)Trigger_2300rpm_4.3s-3.3s_TPS6.llgx
- 4000rpm ; +13% (3.5ms / 3.1ms)Trigger_4000rpm_3.5s-3.1s.llgx
- 1100rpm(idle) ; little(3.4ms / 3.4ms)Trigger_idle_3.4s-3.4s.llgx
At least they are fine when I check 2weeks ago, but I'll check them again.

For sensors it is best to use sensor ground as there will be an offset between chassis ground and ecu ground depending on how much current is passing through the chassis connections and the ecu wiring.  

Has it got a ground cable all the way from the battery to the engine?  If not I have seen that cause large voltage drops as the chassis gets older. 
One other thing you can try which might stop the ecu from shutting down - pin 4 controls the main relay, it may be the big drop in voltage at the start of cranking that is causing this control circuit to switch off the main relay.  Get something like a paper clip pushed in to touch the terminal on ecu/loom pin 4, Connect this pin to ground then the main relay will be permanently engaged.  See if it still disconnects when cranking like that.

The only combined oil press/temp sensors I know of are the relatively new Bosch ones:  https://www.bosch-motorsport-shop.com.au/liquid-pressure-temp-combined-sensor-10-bar-140-de
For the MAC valve, there are a few similar part numbers that will work, a common one is 35A-ACA-DDBA-0BA.  Make sure you get it from a MAC dealer as there are many very poor quality fakes about.

Is the driver type of AUX4 set to Low Side?
Are the other AUX outputs (e.g. warning light) working properly?

Hold down the Shift Key while mouse clicking on the fuel table in the ECU settings menu (or keybopard "Shift +F") , it will open a new fuel table, you can then change one table to surface view mode by clicking "K" on the keyboard. 
Sorry this video is in english but may help:  https://youtu.be/Eo9zBcIkacs
 
 

Assign your switch to a spare digital input on PCLink. 
Then setup the following to be similar. 
 

 
Fill table two wastegate duty and boost target map as desired. Every time you press the switch you will switch to your secondary boost tables for higher boost and hold it for 10 seconds. 
 

Unless you have a special reason, there is no need to keep the normal ECU.
The trigger pinout seems to be correct before the change. It would be reluctor sensor, therefore no voltage would be output when the engine isn't running.
(However, you may need to switch the +/- because Honda engine has reversed rotation direction.)
I think the connection of LG1/2 is to GND (not shield).
The wiring is different from my vehicle, so I am not sure.

I got it!
Is the GND connected right?
I think you need to connect LG1(A26) and LG2(A24) to the GND.
And make sure PG1(A4) and PG2(A2) are also connected to GND correctly.

Hello.
I'm using LINK ECU by piggy back and sensor inputs are branched off from the factory ECU.
Therefore, I am sorry that I don't have much advice for wiring.
In temperature calibration, "Honda Type A" should be available. 
in Japanese:
私はLINK ECUをサブコンとして利用しており、センサー信号は純正ECUから分岐させています。
そのため、申し訳ないですが、配線に関してはあまり参考にならないかと思います。
温度センサーの校正テーブルについては、"Honda Type A"が適合するはずです。

I got it!
Is the GND connected right?
I think you need to connect LG1(A26) and LG2(A24) to the GND.
And make sure PG1(A4) and PG2(A2) are also connected to GND correctly.

In the area where it goes sligthy rich you have a lambda error of about 0.04lambda so I think you could probably increase the gain a fair bit in the 0.033 and 0.066 cells.  You will probably need to lower the conrol rate in the 0/1000/2000 & 3000 cells at the same time as your rate especially at 2&3000 is probably way faster than the time it takes for the exhaust gas to reach the sensor and the sensor respond.  
 
Here is an example from our WRX test car (lambda just after turbo about 1M from exhaust valves).  This is a G4X so I dont know how well the gains translate across but update rate should be relevant.

If you can send us a good triggerscope and we should be able to get a mode in the software for it. Probably best to remove the spark plugs before capturing the triggerscope so that it's not affected by compression. Alternatively if you could measure the angle of the extra tooth relative to the other two on either side of it, is it exactly halfway between? If it is halfway between and the other 3 teeth are evenly spaced then we won't need a triggerscope to figure out the angles of each tooth.
The other useful piece of information would be the location of cyl1 tdc on the compression stroke relative to the teeth so that we can try and set the mode up to have an offset of 0.

Thanks.  Keep in the back of your mind, later when we release the next public release firmware version this 27 deg offset will be built in, so you will need to confirm timing again when you next update.  The trigger offset should be zero in the final firmware.  

@Adamw
I have tested the E07Z trigger mode and confirmed that it all works OK.
RPM is stable and no trigger error has occurred.
The trigger calibrate value is as below :
 -Trigger Offset : 27.0 deg
 -Ignition Delay : 80 microsec

I really appreciate your support.