Timboj

Hi guys, Hoping you can guide me on this one. This is the kind of adjustment I'd like to be able to troubleshoot without a tuner. Your advice on the fixing my decelerating/coasting issue seems pretty spot on. I can certainly live it in now. The issue I'm dealing with now (I don't think it was introduced with the previous fix) is I'm experiencing momentary rev spikes shortly after coming off the throttle and disengaging the clutch. You can see here: I figured it was related to ignition timing sustaining torque, and low and behold, it coincides with flat spots in the ignition angle. I could probably fumble my way through this, but hoping you could suggest a sensible adjustment?

Hi guys, could you configure a momentary switch (hold on OR off) for a DI to toggle on off, or does it need to be a permanent toggle? I like the idea of hiding something low profile like this: https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B015X34IP6/?coliid=I3BY4YUUPM7IBY&colid=1JGOV4T7UWTO5&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Shoot. Well I guess it was good practice making a harness...

Hi guys, I was about to wire in my AEM x-series oil temp and pressure gauges via CANBUS, but I think I've hit a wall. My CAN1 is currently configured to run at 1 Mbit/s for my WB2 controller, but it looks like AEMnet runs at 500 kbit/s. Is there any way around this??

I had to do the same thing a few weeks ago after reinstalling the driver's seat... The above process seems to work tho

@Agret Hi Agret, I've been away on holidays. I went to Racepace Motorsport in Bayswater. Gareth has plenty of experience with VQs and owns a Revup 350Z he's been working on progressively too.

First test seemed to work correctly. I'll keep an eye on it for subsequent drives.

This seemed to have worked a treat. I'll do some more testing but this felt much closer to factory, thanks.

Hi team, I've seen others have issue with this as well but I can't seem to resolve. When updating the axes I can't seem to add/remove rows/columns to increase/decrease resolution. Ie. My rows are limited to 11 and columns to 16. The + - buttons are simply prompting to update the cell or deleting what's in it. I've tried 'insert' as well but that's doing the same thing as +. I'm trying to mirror my replicate my fuel table which is 15 x 22.

@Adamw Understanding that we really want the resistor as close to the device as possible, would it be acceptable to terminate with this amount of distance to the device, or the preceding connector? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ldK8B0AzCaeW1We1UbWb0-bkb4UEFYX7/view?usp=sharing

Got it. Thanks Vaughan. All of this ties back to how 'accurate' the AFR target table is, right?

Ah thanks Vaughan. I made an assumption there with "Left bank" being 1- I'll switch them. So conceptually I understand it's saying to apply the difference between the two banks for LLTT, but I don't understand the specifics of the setup. Would you mind dot pointing what goes where? A basic 'how to?' Might be useful for other amateurs too.

Hi guys, I was looking to apply long term fuel trims but I was hoping you could expand on this information in the help file, as it's not super clear to me: "If using 2 Banks one method of applying the calculated trims to the Fuelling would be to use the Fuel Table for Bank 1 and use a single Individual Cylinder Trim Table on all Bank 2 Injectors applying the difference between the two CLL LTT Tables to this ind cyl trim table." This is my current config, if that matters, but I haven't yet applied to the ECU:

Adam, thank you. Exactly what I was after! So simple.

Hi guys, I'm also wiring in a couple of AEM gauges using CAN on my N350X. My question is just whether the bus also requires a terminating resistor at the opposite end of the bus to the ECU? And if so, can you literally just wire in a 120ohm resistor across the high low wires? Sorry, I've really struggled to get a real life examples of how people do this.

Thanks Adam. Does Link sell them or a cable? If not, can you suggest a retailer in Aus/NZ? They seem to be pretty rare.

Would appreciate your answer on the JST connectors, guys? I just bought a pack of them and after opening up the ECU, I realised they are not the correct ones.

Thanks. I'll give that a shot. In the meantime, to save me opening it up, can you confirm if the Expansion Connector 1 is a standard 7-pin JST connection? And what gauge/rating of wire would you recommend for running a sensor (or potentially more than one) off the 5V? Cheers guys.

Here's the overrun settings: My tuner had suggested dropping the RPM setting to 1300 from 1600 @ 80 degrees and 1500 @ 90degrees, which did seem to help some but it's still not quite right.

@Vaughan I've had a chance to try lowering the timeout to 0, but that doesn't work unfortunately. It seems that turning the keys all the way off at 'normal' pace (I don't think I'm close to breaking any records) doesn't give the ECU enough time to cut the fan. If I do it quite slowly that seems to work. It seems the circuit appreciates a moment in acc to turn the fans off. Obviously this wasn't an issue on the stock ECU. Any chance this could be addressed in firmware? Haven't had a chance to spend much time on the overrun fuel cutout yet, although I've reduced the lower limit. I'll circle back this weekend. Cheers

Sorry, to be clearer, my comment that my tuner had given me something to try was around the overrun fuel cutout. I'll respond when I get a chance to try both these fixes. Cheers

Thanks Vaughan. What you've described appears to be exactly what's happening. Just today I was in a hurry only to come back to my car 30 mins later with my fans still running. Really appreciate a solution on that one, thanks. My tuner has given me something to try out so I'll give that a shot and confirm the setting.

I've had a professional tune now and running great so I'm going to take some time to sit down and compare the maps. A couple of quirks though. Even before the tune, I've found that occasionally if I switch the car off, the radiator fans will stay on. To switch them off, I have to give it a moment (I expect to cool down a little) and then only need to turn the ignition switch to accessories, for them to switch off again. Assume this is a setting/threshold I can adjust? Lastly, and this might be one my tuner has to solve, but post-tune when slowing down in gear, the transition on the drivetrain from engine power to rear axle momentum is causing some pretty serious bucking. It means I have to get on the clutch much sooner when slowing down. Is that too much or too little torque being created to transition (I can't conceptualise it)? Thanks!

Thanks Vaughan. Edit- Had to do a double take. Hadn't realised there were more settings accessible under 'Parameters'!

Legend, thanks. I'll turn off overrun, and follow up re the idle. The flywheel voltage issue was brought up earlier- it's just showing in red as if it's an issue. I thought there might be somewhere to adjust a threshold setting to 'switch it off'.