k4nnon
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Posts posted by k4nnon
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On 6/8/2022 at 4:43 PM, Adamw said:
Evo's tend to do this in my experience, their sensor ground circuit must be connected to something that creates a variable ground offset. Mine is 0.0% without the engine running and 0.2% with engine running.
Just check the average TPS Delta runtime at idle then set your accel deadband above this so it doesnt trigger accel enrichment at idle.
Hey thanks i will check my values and give this a try!!
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On 6/9/2022 at 4:44 AM, Adamw said:
You might have to fit the capacitor to the lambda power supply or move the power wire as it is dropping out during cranking (maybe it is powered from an ACC circuit that powers off during cranking?). It also throws an error 16 during heating which usually means its not happy with the power supply.
I suspect there is not enough fuel when hot. As soon as the engine fires you have no post start enrichment and the injector PW drops very low - around 0.44ms. The injectors will be very erratic at that - if they are even opening at all.
Try the changes in orange below. Post start may need to be even higher. The Min Eff PW may make it idle too rich but try it and see.
Hey Adam , just now seeing this reply but all of that makes sense. I believe when i was initially getting the car fired up i had changed my min injector pulse width for some reason but i will change it back to spec and see how it effects the car with those changes. Also you may be correct with the Lambda power wiring, I feel like i have that wired into ACC power as you say. I think its taking power from the cigar lighter, which i checked and it was hot when key on but it may drop out during crannking. Thats on the list to change! As always thanks for the help...
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14 hours ago, Adamw said:
Best to use google drive or one drive etc. You can remove old attachments from old posts but then they arent there for anyone in the future that has a similar question/problem.
The reason the allowance is quite tight is forum hosts change based on number of vistors to the site and the total data storage. And the data part is expensive. So we give each user enough allowance to get started and learn their way around etc, then when they need more they can use one of the many other sharing options.
Sounds good, Thanks Adam!
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Hey all, Im a semi-new Link G4X user to this forum. Iv noticed iv reached my allowable attachment limit. Are we supposed to go back and delete posts or attachments as our questions are answered? I would like the ability to post up more log or map information for future help to myself as well as others, but i also dont want to have to go back and have to delete any good information or photos. What is everyone doing about this?
Note: I was earlier advised to download a google drive and then add my logs or maps there and just use a shareable link. I can continue to do this with no issues, but just wanted to know if i can free up what is available already..
Thanks for any input..
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On 6/10/2022 at 8:23 PM, Adamw said:
In the connection settings try changing the port from auto to both USB and the correct com port option, you may find one will give a more reliable connection.
Thanks Adam, you have actually helped me out with this same issue before. I ended up having success both times with using an older computer with an older version of windows. I figure its my newer computer giving issues somewhere. Iv tried all the different ports and settings and when everything is working i dont really see any difference in using different ports or settings then what i already have. This may make a difference when trying to update firmware. Ill have to try that the next time i have a firmware update. Thanks again!!
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Hey all, is anyone else having issue with updating the firmware when using a newer computer? Im having issues for the second time while trying to update to the new PCLink software and then updating the firmware with my link g4x ecu. I previously had the same issue when doing the last firmware update and i ended up having to use an older computer to push the update through.
PCLink download was successful and easy both times but when I try to update the firmware I get a Firmware Updater not responding message and then after a few seconds I get and unsuccessful message and to cycle the key and try again.
Im going to try the older computer again and see if this solves the update issue again,,, Im hoping it does lol, but just wanted to know if anyone else has had issues..
Thanks all!!!
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4 hours ago, randolph said:
Hey you should be able to power and ground this way. Thats the way i bench flashed it and had no issues. Make sure your firmware and stuff is up to date, i has issues with that stuff. Also had to use an older computer at one point.. Best of luck.
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45 minutes ago, remski2 said:
I'd re-clock only if your volt readings are not within specs... 0.5V - 4.5V I believe.. otherwise I dont think it will make any difference.
Thanks, I reclocked the sensor just to rule out if that effects anything or not. Im not thinking its going to change anything but ill post up if it does. My Closed/Open voltages pre adjustment were .77 to 4.98 and after they are more reasonable at .56 to 4.81. After recall closed TP is 0.0 now and 100 for full open. Have not driven it yet to see if it stays...
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25 minutes ago, Confused said:
Ideally you don't want this, it should sit bang on 0.0% at idle.
Perform another TPS calibration and hopefully that'll sort it.
Thanks for the input. Iv done a few recalibrations and it still seems to do it. im thinking i might need to reclock my tps sensor and then recal. ill give that a try.
Thanks for the input!!
12 minutes ago, remski2 said:Mine jumps as well by about 0.2% ...
I thought thats what the deadband setting is for...
Hey Thanks,, That may be correct, I have not tried to adjust any of those settings as of yet so i will look into this as well..
Thanks!!
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Link G4X PnP for evo 9. Iv recently noticed while watching logs, that my TPS% randomly bounced back and forward from 0 to 0.1 and sometimes 0.2 while the throttle is closed at idle with no throttle input. Is this a common thing/issue. Will this slight change in reading effect the way the car runs? Might it possibly be a sensor adjustment and rescale that fixes the issue or is it even something to worry about?
As always thanks for any input!!!!
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Finally got around to setting up my old google drive for use so i can now add the link for you guys to view. The first of which will be my current map and two logs, One log is of a cool start up, and the second is a hot start up. The cool start is decent and seems to be fine. The hot start dips the idle and it seems to recover slowly before its stable. Not really sure i need to make adjustments on this one so if anyone has any input its alwys appreciated.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ctVovrKJeoLEI08LdHJdPDSUOxaj20xI?usp=sharing
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14 hours ago, Adamw said:
If you are on recent firmware, go to lambda 1 settings and set "Run When Stalled" to ON, it will then start before starting the engine. Set it back to off after testing as it can shorten sensor life with that enabled.
THANKS!! Ill give this a try!
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On 6/2/2022 at 5:39 PM, Adamw said:
It would pay to get the wideband working before starting and log a hot start so you arent guessing. But I would say most likely it is too much fuel. With ethanol there is a massive difference in how much start enrichment you need between hot and cold.
Hey Adam, As always thanks for the input. I have the Link CAN Lambda stuff working with the car as well as an alternative wideband that just goes to a gauge. They seem to be working fine but when i crank and start the car there is about a 20s delay before my Lambda1 comes online with the CAN Lambda stuff, its about similar time for the wideband on the gauge, so idk how to accurately check what my AFR is during cranking. By the time the Lambda sensors are online and giving me a reading the car has changed its startup behavior. Iv been playing with some things and it seems to be getting better. I havent tried decreasing the first start enrichment stuff as of yet so that will be next and ill see if the issue seems any better or worse. Thanks again.
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Hey all, as th title states i have a hot restart question. Link G4X pnp for evo 9. Im learning the software and getting some stuff dialed in. I just switched back to e85 and im having some warm/hot restart issues. The car will cold start and go through its warm up cycle great, driveability is good. If i shut the car off to get gas, or if i go to lunch and then restart the car, I almost have to floor the gas peddle to get it fired up. when it does start up it almost doesnt stay running until it catches up with itself. Ill have to hold the throttle up to keep it running and when i do the closed loopgoes into idle rpm lock out so it further complicates the hot starts.
Since it seems to start up better if i hold the throttle down i figure the car is starving for air or running super rich due to the e85. what i have done so far is lower all cranking enrichment and post start stuff. this has helped but only about 50% unless i just didnt lower it enough. My question is,,, Does it sound like im doing this right or should i actually be adding additional fuel or time to my cranking or post start tables. If the car starts better when im holding the gas peddle down, i this beacuse the car is starving for air and is too rich or is this because the car is actually lean and my holding the gas peddle down giving the car more air and additional fuel?
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19 hours ago, Adamw said:
Huh? Not sure what you are saying here so I will do a quick example.
Two basic factors change with load - engine volumetric efficiency and the charge air density. The charge air density is determined by the MAP sensor and air temp sensor so that is taken care of in the background automatically. The fuel table's job is effectively only to take care of the changes in volumetric efficiency.
If you look at the fuel table below as an example - this is from a real engine, I have only rounded off the two orange numbers to make the math easier. This engine idles in the -60Kpa row, you can see as load increases from idle to WOT the fuel table number doesnt actually change much. In fact the bottom 3 rows barely change at all, I could have removed those last two rows and the fuel control would have still been near perfect.
To explain how interpolation works - say I were cruising along at 2000RPM, -50Kpa, The ecu would be using a value of 67.5% (ie. half way between the 65% & 70%).
If I were cruise at -56kpa then the ecu would be using a fuel table value of 66% (ie 1/5 of the way between 65 & 70).
Even if the bulk of my cruising was done at say -50kpa, you would only need to add another row at -50 if the VE change between the -40 & -60 row was not linear.
That’s exactly what I was meaning to say. I understand what you are saying and that’s what I was meaning. Thanks for the input. I think I have it figured out now!
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On 5/27/2022 at 6:19 PM, Adamw said:
The value generated by the table is also linearly interpolated between cells, so it generally doesnt matter where you are working. If there is some area of operation where linear interpolation between two cells doesnt give the outcome you desire then just add a new row/column at the value you want.
Thanks Adam, this makes sense. I haven’t adjusted any of the row values as of yet but the “in between” cell travel is probably travel through numbers that aren’t in my row columns. Always thanks for the advice!
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Hey all Im not sure if this is a real issue or not because every car is different and every car runs differently.
When watching my live data, the car seems to always be between load cells and never really directly within load cells unless i am driving and trying to hold it in that particular load cell.
Does this sound normal or is there an adjustment somewhere that will help travel through the load cells instead of between them.
It may all be in my head that i would like to see the car in a particular load cell but with driving and load conditions it may be operating as should and just not within that cell.. figures i would ask some more experienced link g4x users.
Thanks for any input!!
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16 hours ago, koracing said:
It may be worth pulling the stepper and watching it home with key on or off depending on how you have it set. If it's reliably doing the same thing every time or or not. If it reliably resets every time it shouldn't vary so much unless you are coincidentally also getting changes in load or air flow at the same time as you're trying to dial idle in.
Thanks for the input, I did somewhat of a reset but i did not actually watch the stepper move, i may need to do that. As for right now the car is running half decent and idle is closer to where it needs to be. Im going to keep playing with it and see where i end up.
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UPDATES,, For all who have contributed to my idle issues.. Im probably screwing myself over in some way by not understanding or having an adjustment way out of whack to where i am unsuccessful. Some days i ca get te car to idle and drive great, but it almost changes every key cycle and i have to adjust everything again to keep the car running smoothly. I figure i need to start from the beginning.
New update, which probably isnt helping,, Iv switched back to E85 fuel. Tested the content and it is currently E80. Hoping the content goes up slightly as we get further into summer. Iv been messing with the idle tables in open loop only but the few times i had the car running in closed loop mode the car did idle better and smoother. somehow i messed that up and was unable to get back to a happy place. SO open loop for now. I also jacked somethng up the other day to where my calues in the table were all 100 just to keep the engine from stalling out. When the car seems to be happy at 185 degreees F, the table value is anywhere from 55-60. But this again is only until i start the car again and it seems off. Assuming my stepper motor is soo far out that the numbers are never really close. I may try to start from ground zero and follow the open loop idle set up procedure in the instructions. Question about this,,,, Do i need to somehow reset the stepper to a full open or full closed position before even starting? I noticed the other day when i switched the idle control to off it zereod out my table but the car stayed running perfectly fine but then made my adjustment numbers funky.. Also noticed when the car is idling smooth and i then unplug the stepper completely it stays running as it was. I assume this is because the stepper stays at is current position state.
I almost feel like i need to completely zero out my stepper to its max closed position before i start making any adjustments in the tables so tat y numbers are accurate.. Does all of this sound right?? Also with all of that said, as far as my mechanical set screw on my throttle body, is there a way i need to set this before i even start with the stepper tables? My brain tells me that the car should be capable of running without dying when the stepper is completely closed, this would mean a mechanical adjustment of the set screw before hand. Anyways i think im going to start at square one. I know logs and maps are always informative to anyone who stops by but im going to start at the beginning with those also.
Thanks for any input or information, this forum has been extremely helpful so far and im learning a lot!
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13 hours ago, Adamw said:
use something like googledrive/onedrive/dropbox or similar, upload your files to that then get a share link and paste here.
Thanks ill download something today. I tried the previous revised map again hoping for great cold start and first drive and it was way off this morning. Idle jumped to 3k and stayed there until I changed it to lower it. I went back to a previous drivable map that seems to work decent for the time being. I noticed something and iv seen this mentioned in other places,, The evo 9 stepper tables are in reverse from the previous versions. I even went and checked the provided base maps to confirm the tables in the 9 map go from low to high. Is this possibly why im having issues. My table goes as an earlier version evo would have and numbers go higher to lower.. Ill find time to post up a recent log and a map. Thanks for all the help!
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New developments in this department.... Soo I finally got a chance to try that revised map. After letting the vehicle sit in the garage for a couple days. I took a log of the startup and full warm up. The car started and idled very very well. The whole warm up phase was just about perfect other then AFR was slightly. Thats an easy fix, but idle was great and stable as it came up to temp. Probably the best its ever been so far. I wanted to take seperate logs to post up of warm up, and driving. Heres where it gets weird. After the warm up log, I didnt shut off the car, obviously the car was up to temp and i was on m y way to work so i left. I messed up and did not take the first driving log. I wanted to take a log of th next key cycle to see if anything changed.. SOO I left my driveway and drove up to the store to get a coffee.. The car drove absolutely great!!!! AFR still needed adjusted, it was slightly rich but fine, The car returned to idle well and stable, it sounded smooth, My throttle hang issue was about gone. It felt right with driving. I stopped to get a coffee, I did not change the map, I dont think i made any adjustments to it other then maybe a slight VE adjustment in the fuel map to get afr better. On the second start up the car did not want to idle properly. Idle would hunt up and down pretty dramatically, cruising was not smooth at all compared to the first drive, it was like a totally different map. its soo confusing. I made it to work and shut the car down. Reloaded the same map and started up the car again with similar issues, The idle seemed slightly more stable this time around, This time i took a log. I took the car for a short drive around the block and driveability was off again and the rev hang issue was crazy long this time as can be seen in the logs.. Ill post up everything. But the very first start, warm up, and road test were about perfect, if i could get back to that and continue my tuning from there that would be awesome!!
I want to add this,,, on the second start, after the awesome first road test.. The ecu did not connect to my computer and i got a message saying, failed connection and that the ecu was now running in boot mode. Iv had this happen before and all i did was hit connect to ecu button and car connected to the computer. I dont know if this has any relation to how the car was running or not..
Thanks all for any input, I still think you guys are on the right track as far as helping me out and hopefully soon ill know and understand enough to make my own adjustments, Im just a bit confused right now as far as what is changing or effecting how the car runs between key cycles..
I actually dont have enough space to post up anymore log files.. Do i need to delete files from this post in order to free up more space for posting or do i need to start a new topic post? Id like to post up my warm up map and cruise map if I can.
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Thanks for the reply. Its not a major issue and something I can learn to live with.
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Hey all Im sure there is a simple fix for this but figured the fastest way to an answer would be to ask. When I use the compare ecu feature it turns the color off on all of my tables. When I close the compare ecu feature it stays that way. How do I change it back to all colored tables. I know I can individually select each table and use the H shortcut but its a pain lol. Thanks for any input!
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Hey guys I appreciate the continued effort in trying to help me solve my issues. I think we are headed in the right direction. I wont have a chance to try out that last map for a few days because of weather but i will let you know how it ends up. I think i did change my stepper reset to key on fuel lockout and i dont mind the longer start times if its a more accurate way of resetting the stepper. I did notice that the last few times the car has started up, it seemed to warm up and set itself at a good consistent idle without me having to adjust anything. Even driveabiity in closed loop the cars drives very smooth so far so im excited for getting everything set up properly! Again thanks for everything so far it has all been a big help.
EVO IX Direct Spark Question.
in G4x
Posted
Hey all, been a minute since i last posted anything but i have a question in relation to the evo 9 ignition system.
So i have a LinkG4X plug and play unit for my evo 9. The evo 9 uses a factory wasted spark system with 2 coils to control all 4 cylinders. I have a SpoolinUP Coil on plug kit but this is not a direct spark system, this still operates as the wasted spark system but has 4 individual coils. The spoolin up cop kit uses 4 coils that are plugged into the factory coil plugs.
My question is,,, Is there a way to convert this Coil on plug kit to a real direct spark system with the link. I feel like this is possible, im just not sure how to go about it. There are only two ignition plugs from the factory harness and only two receiving plugs for the cop kit.
If i were to seperate the wiring from all of the coils and make them individual would i just run two coils to the factory plugs and then have to wire in the other two to the link or would there be more work needed.
Let me know what you guys think i appreciate it!
Also car has ran great as is, I would just like the ability to control ignition on individual cylinders rather then two at a time with the waste spark system..