k4nnon
-
Posts
271 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by k4nnon
-
-
Hey just a little info and to add to this, If you want to simplify things a dual pump setup isnt really needed until over 600 wheel in most cases. A single rewired walbro 450 and -6 feed line can accomplish 700 or so. Iv done 730 wheel mustang with a single direct wired 450 and -6 feed line. I converted my factory feed line as my return line. Just another way of doing it if you want a more simple approach as far as less wiring and less components. Also a single pump in a surge tank will flow a good bit more than advertised because it is already being fed and pressurized by the feed pump. So if you are less than 700wheel or so, you could get away with a single large pump in surge and have plenty of fuel.. Never a bad thing to have more than you need though if you wanna make huge power!!!
-
1 hour ago, Confused said:
I'd expect the thermostat to be around the 82-88 degree C point, which is then the minimum you should ever be able to get to, even driving at high road speed/low load, no matter how big your radiator is.
Unless you do truly have a ~70 degree C thermostat, which would be unusual, I'd suggest that there's actually a mechanical problem here to sort out.
Thanks for the input. There is a chance I built this engine with a cooler thermostat and forgot what it was. Ill take some more logs or even pull the water neck off to verify. Thanks again for the input!!
-
15 minutes ago, Adamw said:
If the coolant temp is below the thermostat set point there should not even be coolant moving through the radiator.
Thanks that is a good thought and something i will check into. I just took a long log showing cold start/warm up and then the same drive to work that i took with the last log. Mivec actual and target are very close now with only changing the duty cycle as you mentioned. After the drive i let the car sit to watch coolant temps come up to see if i can rule out the thermostat is bad or not. Ill let you check it out and see what you think. Thanks for all the help and input i appreciate it!!
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ctVovrKJeoLEI08LdHJdPDSUOxaj20xI?usp=sharing
24 minutes ago, Adamw said:If the coolant temp is below the thermostat set point there should not even be coolant moving through the radiator.
Almost looks like the thermostat is opening at 160 with its first opening event and then around 157/158 there after. Im looking at the warm up before driving. My fans are set to kick on over 180 i believe so does this confirm that the thermostat is working as should?
-
On 9/11/2022 at 5:03 PM, Adamw said:
It sounds like your thermostat is not working, you should have no trouble getting up to a normal stable operating temp regardless of ambient.
As for the PID, you cant do any harm. The first thing I would try is dropping the base DC as your doesnt look like it wants anything like our defaut 50%. Set PID to custom and change the base DC to about 38%, see if that helps.
Hey thanks again for the input! I can check but im pretty sure the thermostat is fine. Car gets up to temp fine but i wanna say the temperature outside was only 60*F or so. With driving and the larger radiator i just assumed the cooler air did not allow coolant temps to be as high as a warm day. The temp out this morning is 60 as well so i will verify! Thanks for the input i will give it a try!!
-
On 9/9/2022 at 5:21 PM, Adamw said:
Its actually not too bad, but could be improved with some PID tuning. I notice your coolant temp only reaches a max of 70°C in that log, is that as hot as it gets or was it still warming up? If its still warming up this log may not be representative of how it behaves when warm - the oil viscosity can have a big impact on VVT control. I will suggest some changes once you confirm that.
The small jitter at idle when target is zero is with the vvt disabled and sitting against the mechanical stop so that isnt going to be improved much. I would just do the cam angle test>cal again when fully warmed up which may zero out some of that error.
Hey Adam, Thanks for the reply. When the vehicle is fully warm and hot on a hot day my coolant temps will max about 190*F when at a stop light. While moving the temps are about 180*F or below. This day while taking the log, the outside temp was cooler so the vehicle only got up to the temps showed in the log while moving or stopped. Oil temps and viscosity could be playing a role. Im just not sure how closely the target and actual should be or if some deviation is acceptable. I did figure that some PID adjusting could probably settle this out, however i dont have much experience with adjusting PID stuff so i dont want to make matters worse or potentially damage anything. I may have to experiment with some very small adjustments and see what happens. Also I did see that my voltage compensation is currently turned off. Would turning that ON change what im seeing for the better? Or should i leave this OFF as is?
Thanks for the input as always!!!!
-
Hey all its been a minute but I have a question about my mivec target vs actual numbers. Im wondering if im having issue somewhere or if these values look appropriate. Ill post up a casual driving log in the link as well as my current map. My values always seem slightly higher or slightly lower than target. Even at idle where target is 0 i get values jumping around. Is there something i should look at to get these values in line or an adjustment in my tune file? Any input or help is always appreciated. Thanks
06 evo9.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YztlGxBhlYcEoPRSmk_72WIGS6iA-ATB/view?usp=sharing
-
3 hours ago, Adamw said:
Assuming your injectors flow what the data that defines them says and your lambda is on target then the air mass calculation is correct - your VE must be correct (ignoring the small error from charge temp influence in this case). However, with injectors that large you will be well down in the region where even SPWA wont be enough to deal with the extreme changes in flow gradients and the erratic variation. So there is likely considerable error at idle, even cylinder to cylinder and cycle to cycle variation will be quite significant down at these PW's. So dont sweat it too much. You obviously arent going for economy or emissions with those injectors so who cares.
A VE of 55-60% is very typical at idle so you are somewhere in the ballpark. VE & hence air mass will only get more accurate as you increase load and start operating at a PW where the injector behavior is more definable or linear and no longer erratic.
Hey Adam, Thanks for the response. Thats pretty much what I wanted to hear. Iv ran my data through a few different calculators and scenarios, and all seems to fall in line very closely to what I am seeing. I have had communication with FIC about my injectors and the data entered, and that is spot on so im not worried about the injector data being wrong. Iv been very pleased with the idle quality and drive ability of the FIC 2150 injectors. Im running on E85 currently and fuel use isnt terrible. Thanks again for the input.
-
4 hours ago, Confused said:
Firstly, are you in Modelled fuel mode? If not, then the number in the fuel table has no relevance to VE whatsoever, and you can stop here!
Secondly, what injectors? Are you sure you have the correct Flow Rate, dead times, Short Width Pulse Adder (if supplied).
Thirdly, have you tuned things like injection angle, Charge Temp Approximation?
There are a huge number of various parameters (all described in much better detail than I can do here in the Help) which determine the fueling, and the number in the fuel table is affected by each and every one of these.
We'll be able to help you a bit more if you provide more details, plus a copy of your current tune, as there might be something that's having an effect that you're not aware of, so don't know to share the details with us.
Hey thanks for the input. Using Modeled fuel mode, injectors are FIC 2150's, but were recently cleaned and flowed by FIC with an average of 2234 at 43.5psi. So i have my injector data as 2230s with the injector data provided by FIC for dead times and short pulse adders. Fuel pressure referenced with sensor and set at 43.5psi base. I have played with injection timing and have that set richest possible at idle. I have not messed with Charge air approximation because i have not had time to get on the dyno yet. Pretty sure i have everything set up correctly thus far, just looking for a way to verify if my VE table numbers are falling in line with actual cylinder filling. Im still learing the link stuff so i appreciate any input anyone can give to help me learn if im doing things incorrectly or not. Thanks again and i look forward to any further input or advice. Other then that I have the street tune dialed in pretty close and wot follows target well.
-
Hey all link g4x plug and play unit for evo 9. Im trying to verify that my VE table values represent correct and actual referencing of percentage of cylinder filling.. Iv used a simple calculator provided by Evans Performance Acadamy and im confused by the values or even what i should do to get correct and actual values. I would like to get my VE table dialed in as accurately possible so i would like this information to be right. Providing some information to help decided if my values are close to correct or not.
Engine is 2100.5cc,,, So i have engine displacement set to 2100 in link. Speed density IAT/MAP/BAP set correctly.
Idle is steady around 1000 and Lambda hovers around 1.000 plus or minus a little.
VE fuel map is at 55 in this idle area.
Estimated air per cylinder measured is between 0.1460 and 0.1550 so i figured the difference of 0.1500.
With this information plugged into the calculator, my estimated airmass g/s is a 5.
This calculator specifies proper numbers for a 4cylinder engine to be between 3.5 and 4.5.
So do my numbers make sense or is there a proper way to figuring this out and what should i be looking at to get everything dialed in as correctly as possible. Any input is appreciated thanks!!!!
-
-
Hey all EVO 9 LinkG4X plug and play unit. I just Installed my aem oil pressure sensor and have it configured and working correctly. I notice that when my cars oil pressure goes below 25psi the status color turns to RED. When hot my car likes to idle around 20psi so is there a way to change the value at which the indicator color changes? I naturally assume RED to be a "caution" color so it would be nice if it wasnt always coming on and going off when its not an actual issue.. Let me know! Thanks for any input!
-
Hey guys thanks for all of the input! I have ordered an AEM pressure sensor that i will individually tie into the link. I was already thinking that two sending units were going to be needed so im gonna make it work! I appreciate all the help!
-
3 hours ago, Confused said:
Once you've got a reliable sensor sending data into the ECU, and all the right protection strategies set up, you don't need a gauge, as the ECU will be monitoring and reacting to it much better than you could ever react to a gauge - especially if you're pressing on and concentrating on the road.
Hey thanks for the input, I understand this and i never rely on watching gauges vs data, But id rather have a working gauge, then a not working gauge in its place. And id rather not remove the gauge or assembly as is because i already have them and i enjoy having them. As i drive my vehicle often im not always hooked to a laptop and logging info so a quick peak at the gauges every now and again is very useful in my situation.. Thanks for the input though, always appreciate what others have to say!
-
On 7/17/2022 at 2:33 PM, Adamw said:
The old school VDO style 2 wire pressure sensors are pretty horible things. The calibration changes with temperature etc. You could tap into the signal wire but you would have to determine the calibration yourself. Personally I would look at a reputable 3 wire sensor with known calibration (not a no brand alliexpress one...).
Hey thanks and makes complete sense. Ill be purchasing another sending unit. with that said, is there a way to tie a 3 pin style sensor into my gauge so that i only need the one sensor? My goal would be to have the gauge work properly as well as sending the proper data into my link but i would like to do this with one sensor if possible,, less clutter and weight. The prosport gauge sends power to the sending unit and the unit is grounded, so resistance based.. I think the 3 pin sensors work differently and im not sure if i would be able to input to my gauge?? I may be at a loss and just need to run both sensors..
-
9 minutes ago, remski2 said:
Well.. put a multimeter on the sensor and see what voltage you get.
Based on that you can create a CAL table and scale it..
"should be" linear..
I am feeding my Defi gauges into my Link..
Read somewhere that the gauges and ecu have to be grounded together in the same place for reliable readout... ( and thats how I run it)
Hey thanks. I may give that a try. I may just buy a sensor so I know the cal tables are correct and it won’t tie into the gauge circuit. Thanks again!
-
On 7/15/2022 at 7:09 PM, Turbo.Tim said:
It looks like the adjustable cam gear skipped on me for both the exhaust and intake.
That is a huge possibility. Witness marks def look like there has been movement. One of the many reasons we would stray away from adjustable cam gears. OEM timing gears are the way to go to avoid this potential issue. Looks like a few different things could have lead up to failure. Very unfortunate but always fixable.
-
Hey all quick sensor regarding sensors. I want to tie in oil pressure to my link g4x. I have a cheap ProSport oil pressure gauge that has always worked fine. The sensing sensor is a 2 pin sensor. Is there a way to tie one of these style sensors into the link or do I need to purchase a 3 pin style sensor such as an aem? If what I have will work great! Just trying to figure it out before I spend money if it isn’t needed. Always appreciate any input or help!
-
3 hours ago, remski2 said:
60 kPa oil pressure is about 8.7psi.. (I use psi..)
My Idle Oil pressure is at ~200 - 260kPa.
So unless I am reading it wrong you letting your engine rev to 9000rpm with only 8.7psi....
I have Oil Pressure / rpm table. ( limiting rpm)
Fuel pressure / MGP, since I have a rasing rate regulator (turbo) (limiting rpm)
Lambda / MAP ( removing timing)
Here are my tables.
hey thanks for the input all of the examples have helped. I think i have the info needed to create a few good maps now!
-
2 hours ago, essb00 said:
1. Use the RPM limit - 3D table (with differential fuel pressure in one axis).
2. Use GP RPM Limit for oil pressure.Samples below:
Thankyou very much. This info is very helpful and useful. I appreciate it!!!
-
Hey all I have an evo 9 with G4X plug and play ecu. Getting things set up nicely and will soon be tuning on the dyno. Setting up my fail safes. Whats the most simple best way to set up a failsafe map using my fuel pressure sensor in the case that fuel pressure isnt where it needs to be, or if fuel pressure drops it has a limiter or a cut so it doesnt run into a lean condition?
I would also like to set up a similar fail safe map using my oil pressure sensor. I feel like both of these maps would be similar in set up correct? If so what should i use to best set up my maps, MAP vs RPM or something that works better? Let me know what you guys are doing thanks!!
-
22 hours ago, Turbo.Tim said:
Interesting build. Magnus is well known over the years so you can most likely trust that the engine was built properly. Although mistakes happen it was probably not related to build or parts quality. As Adam mentioned, it looks like its tune related, or engine safety functions were not set correctly. I actually built my personal 9 engine with a magnus 92mm crank at one time. Its a nice piece. Im currently using a custom Winberg 92mm now.
-
Hey guys just to chyme in on this. Built many evos and first off we would always recommend oem plugs and heat ranges. Oem 8 ngk plug number is BPR7EIX and 9 number is ILFR7H. Most common best gap that we used was .022 for both and usually the 9 plugs are already set there. Stock heat range 7 is good to 600wheel with good 93 gas and a good tune. Anything past 600wheel you should be running e85 or another race fuel type which the stock heat range 7 works great for also. My personal 9 has done 790wheel mustang and never had any issues with oem plugs.. With all that said i cant tell how many evos we have had in through our shop that were fixed by removing the colder plugs that were in them and switching them back to oem plugs. I know this isnt the case for everyone but this is what we have found worked the best.
As for your exact situation, sometimes theres no way of telling. It could have been a fully built engine with really great parts but then it ultimately relies on how well the parts were put together. Sometimes it only takes one loose built to be the factor. Not saying that was the issue but there is almost no way of telling for sure with a major failure.
Iv seen plugs look like that after removing from a failed engine that had a failed head gasket, coolant was getting into the cylinder of the damaged plugs, not to say the plug didnt melt first and then the gasket went. Usually if spark is blowing out you feel it on the dyno and if it doesnt ignite, the cylinder stays wet with fuel and wont melt a plug that easily. could be any number of issues. Might have to tear the whole engine apart to find out what may have caused it. If you do figure it out post up so we can see what the cause was. best of luck!
-
Thanks Adam. I was wondering if it was even worth doing since the factory system works well enough. I believe im just going to leave it as is. Thanks again.
-
On 7/6/2022 at 10:51 AM, Turbo.Tim said:
Sorry looking for clarification. I have an 8 and I am trying to configure knock with the oem sensor. Should it be 13kHz or 6kHz? According to the help file Evo 6 and on is 13. I assume Mitsubishi 4g63 aftermarket is with a donut style bosch sensor similar to an x?
Hey I believe stock 8/9 operate with a 6kHz range. I have mine at 6 or 7 and working great. You can try one or the other and see if one gives you usable readings or if it goes all funky. you can set your floor with ignition at 0 to see which settings are working.
Surge tank twin pump wiring
in G4x
Posted
I think what Adam is trying to say, is to trigger the first primary pump in the surge tank, when the fuel pump in the fuel tank starts working. This can be done easily with a relay. Both of these pumps will need to be running at the same time because the surge tank will need filled, as it is feeding your fuel rail. As far as the second pump in surge you can stage to come on a few different ways. Hope that clarifies something. Best of luck getting it set up!