atlex
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Posts posted by atlex
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On 10/29/2022 at 11:49 PM, Adamw said:
Possibly, but there arent too many intuitive short cut keys left. You can just double click on a cell to have it apply the correction. Any suggestions for shortcut keys that would make sense?
I recon Space Bar or Enter would do just fine, they don't appear to do anything in the mix window. I half expected them to.
On 10/29/2022 at 11:49 PM, Adamw said:Can you give an example - you should have pink cross hairs on the table showing where it was working in the table at the exact point you have the cursor placed in the log.
I switch off the engine and pull up the log view and start clicking about and the ECU is still trying to reconnect, I suspect, to continue logging. If I want it to show the active cell I then need to click a bit before where I want to see the cell, in the log stream view, and then click play, and then active cell tracking is reactivated..
On 10/29/2022 at 11:49 PM, Adamw said:Not sure what you are explaining here, can you give a bit more detail.
I'm just not seeing ignition trim stuff applied in relevant tables. Fuel trim definitely works though. I need to run normalization across a few more cycles without clearing it each ecu start. I'll try get this later this week if all goes well.
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I'm just making a little list here of things I've found weird in the interface as I use it.
Mix table: Can we get a shortcut to apply the corrections ? right click select leftclick is a bit cumbersome. I'd love to be able to use the curser keys and then hit a shortcut to apply.
Active Cell more easily Activated: When I stop logging/pull the laptop out the car and then start selecting sections of the log to analyze, it won't show me the active cell for the logged part I've clicked on. It'll only show the cell from the end of the log. I then have to go to the bit before the bit I'm interested in and press 'play log' of course... but it seems like a needless step when there's definitely no more log events coming in.
Knock Trim Oddity: Normalized Logging Ignition Trims aren't showing up in their respective tables unlike the Fuel Trims, but the fuel trims. I've also seen some interesting effects with the 'compare tune' function on these tables.
If there's a more formal place for suggestions/notes like these please let me know where, if this section of the forum isn't quite suitable.
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Working well. I've got signal. Thank you Link for excellent support.
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Thanks for the Replies in private :-)
I'll post up once I've had a test.
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Hi Folks,
I've got my turbo'd eunos roadster idling on the G4X but I'd rather not do much more without some knock monitoring.
I assumed I could use the DI inputs off the extension loom to listen to the bosch donut sensor but it looks like that isn't the case. That's only for the 'knock disable' function.
Are there some semi-legit instructions for wiring it directly onto the main board ?
I'm comfortable adding the connection myself, just want your word first.
[ I did repeated searched for how to do this but it seems someone needs to contact me with instructions if I ask for them. ]
Thanks
Alex
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It's idling. Timing was a mere 2.5 deg off. The timing gun needed more voltage than there was available off the battery to actually pick up the firing and run the bulb. I pulled a jumper battery and ran the gun off that.
Within 10 minutes it's was idling at stoich.
Great job Link! and thank you especially @Adamw
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I hooked up the FP control (AFM wires grounded). The fuel pump is running nicely now.
I've had a go now at night and I can now see spark while cranking, but the timing gun isn't picking it up. The timing gun only picks it up if it is the ignition test.
The difference being, when cranking the starter and FP are eating all the electrical pies.
Looks like I might need to boost the power supply to do the timing without injection.
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I hooked up the multimeter to the red and white wires that are for the coil pack - there are 3, red/white ("ignition") and blue (12v) - this system earths through the sparks themselves. Without the coil pack actually connected.. just using the inputs to it, results are:
0.06 volts when doing the ignition test.
0.1 volts when cranking and them a peak of 0.13 volts when I turn the key back
which is the point we'd see resulting in a solitary spark (safely discharging the coils ?) if the pack was connected.
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There's only one significant difference between the G4X setup and the old ecu's. That's the TPS wiring. I tried to pick up the voltage off the pins 'stock' pins for the TPS but none of the wires could see the voltage. I've left the old wiring in place but done G4X TPS connection via the extension port AN Volt 5 for Signal and Ground/+5v off that same extension loom. I used that loom for the knock sensor wiring also so it was just laying there.
I tried connecting the TPS to the old connector and it made no difference to the crank no spark condition.
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3 hours ago, atlex said:
I will go see how 12v is on the coil pack when cranking.
OK. Seeing 12V in the on position and it drops a bit while cranking (but stays above 10v).
This is off the 'blue' wire per attached diagram.
With the fluke hooked up to these wires during an 'ignition test' it stays at 12v with the key in the on position.
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58 minutes ago, Adamw said:
I really cant see any reason for this. Has anything changed since running with the other ECU? Relocated battery or anything? Does it still run with the other ecu? Can you check the coils still have 12V when cranking.
I've tried the Old ECU again and it starts up just fine, idles as old.
I've even tried a spare new-in-box G4X I have laying about (to go in another Eunos Roadster, an ITB car) wired it up as the other, unlocked it, loaded the map, no spark on crank.
I will go see how 12v is on the coil pack when cranking.
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10 hours ago, Adamw said:
There is correct, stable cranking RPM and dwell showing in the log, so the ecu is commanding a spark. The rest of the setup looks ok to me. Some timing lights wont reliably pick up a spark during cranking if for example the timing is way off.
Can you actually pull a plug out so you can see the spark gap and watch it while cranking.
Plug/lead out and left laying on the head and there's definitely no spark when cranking/starting.
It gives just one spark when I stop the process, confirming what I saw in the timing gun.
Plenty of spark when I do the ignition test, confirmed with the plug/lead out.
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I found Vaughn's helpful post showing a valid MX5 trigger scope pattern and it looks like mine is the same so 'good'.
But that 'Trig1 Signal No' ?
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TL/DR: Not enough dwell to produce good sparks at the cranking voltage, Needed a second battery to run the timing gun as the voltage draw was too much to both spark and strobe.
Hi Folks,
Car: 1989 Eunos Roadster (Early JDM MX5). Turbocharged.
Old ECU: ME221 (that was working fine, but yuck!)
Installed the G4X and I've been going through the setup steps.
I've calibrated TPS/IAT/ECT/MAP - the ISC and Boost Solenoid also work when tested. AEM-X Lambda looks OK too.
I'm at the stage of timing the engine without any injection.
This car runs a Hall Effect CAS on the back of the intake cam. Both trigger1 and trigger2 go to the same CAS.
I've got a timing gun and when I run the ignition test mode the timing gun flashes as one would expect off the first plug wire.
When I use the key to crank the motor, the ECU tells me the ignition 1 / ignition 2 (it's wasted spark) are being activated.
But there's no flashes out the timing gun when I do this - as below, with the lead and plug out and laying on the cam cover there is no spark.
When I turn the key back to the 'on' position I get one flash out the gun, and I get one spark out the plug.
With the fuel pump on or off it makes no difference, with injection or not it makes no difference.
[ I've verified a friend's working map for the same model car has the same trigger configuration. So I'm a bit stumped. ]
Cranking log and trigger scope logs and screenshots attached as well as the current map.
Thank you
Alex
Blue No Spark on Crank - PC Datalog - 2022-10-15 6;42;05 pm.llgx Blue No Spark on Crank - TriggerScopeLog.llgx 1989 Eunos Turbo First Map.pclx
Number of grids in calibration table
in G4x
Posted
AdamW is completely spot on.
I've got two Eunos Roadsters - the JDM MX5, both on G4X) - most of the MX5s modders I know try and ditch the AFM/MAF as soon as possible since it's a power restriction and frankly a pain to tune for. You want either Alpha N (TPS primary fuel load, secondary BAP, IAT) or Speed Density (SD) (which means MAP and IAT) for your fueling, depending on what your mods are... most will want the Speed Density setup if their map signal is good.
Assuming you probably have the original intake manifold, your map signal should be perfect - what you want is to hook up the MAP signal with a vacuum line and setup acceleration enrichment (AE) based on the TPS signal, which on your NB will be a nice variable one. Load on MAP. AE to give it the smash-the-pedal drivability - AE removes the BOG that you get when you suddenly open the throttle plates.
My setups, if you want a reference.. well they're two extremes... but none of them involve MAF/AFM setup.
My ITB car has a terrible MAP signal (RS Aizawa Intake Manifold - 4AGE ITBS - it's a spikey signal at low load) so I run Alpha N there. I still use MAP for fuel pressure reference stuff but the secondary load source is BAP.
My turbo car retains stock intake manifold so runs MAP, vacuum from a port just behind the throttle body.
You can see an example of my maps for the turbo car here https://trull.org/alex/src/ecu_maps/G4X/Blue/ it isn't a map for your car but it is an example of a car running with a MAP signal and no AFM/MAF. The higher number map file is the 'more tuned'