Simon

The G1 didn't have a warmup map. Some were a couple of zones or a single figure Engine temp will be a sensor type issue, wiring or an ECU fault.

Can you take a log using the PC and log all parameters and email or post up along with the PCL file.

Do you have a dash or any other device connected to the CAN port? If so try connecting with this unplugged. Also make sure the ECU is fully powering up. Check you have a full 12V at the ECU power pin.

ECU wise we are not controlling this function. It is controlled directly from the sensor. Â

You want the 2 pin one that is a 2.8K ohms. The single wire one will be a dash sender unit. I'm not sure on the third.

Nope as the G1 LEM does not have the outputs to be able to do this. Yes the factory ECU would be effected if you remove the teeth Im assuming the factory one is not in use currently. Â

No that would not work. As you would end up with all 4 coils firing at the same time. You can modify the distributor triggers with out going to multi coil. The Trigger 1 will attach to NE and Trigger 2 to G1 you will need an earth to G-   Â

V5 is the firmware version so yes all V5's are PC compatible. V4 is also but pre V4 is not

Do you still have a trigger 2 input? Or is this not connected. If it is not being used you need to set trigger two sync mode to none before you will see an RPM reading. If the ECU is expecting a sync it will need to see one before it shows an RPM

Would be too early to say at this point as it is yet to go through the testing phase.

Yes that sounds correct and yes the AUX1 can be used to control the TVIS. For the triggers if you are happy to stay distributored then changing the sub-board would be the way to go. If you want to go multi coil then modifying the distributor would be the option.

Its geared for opto/hall inputs so at a guess I would say it came off a 4G63 or maybe an MX5

I would expect the LC-2 to be around the $300-40O We also like the NGK AFX controller and sensor its not as common or easy to get but they do seem to work very well. You will need one controller per sensor. If you are looking to trim the over all fuel then a single sensor will be all you need. However you have the option of trimming on a bank by bank basis if you felt like having two sensors.

See attached screen shot from help file with trigger set up info.

Trigger 1 will go to the 24 tooth output from the distributor. Trigger two will connect to one of the sync (single tooth) sensors. You will need to check your distributer is the late mode one with a 24 and a single tooth trigger. The most common distributer in the 4AGEs had a 24 and a 4 tooth which requires a different sub-board. The G1 has no out put for AC control so there is no connection for the AC clutch. The fuel pump out put will connect to the FPU pin.

The lock out is the RPM above the target so a typical figure would be 200-500RPM If in closed loop and you change the base it will only start from this value at the point it takes control. So you would have to give a blip of the throttle to get this figure. You have to remember the Idle control is only to correct for changes in load and for warm up. It will not fix a air leak or tuning issue (ie a learn surge) The engine should be able to idle smooth with no idle control.

It is off something that was using two coils. And is very much G1 LEM with V1 firmware. Would need a picture to identify the sub-board.

The FJ is an optical trigger 360 and 4

In open loop mode if you get a surge but the throttle position is stable then it is a fuel / ignition issue.

It should be very close on the right pattern it should be checked but I would expect it to be within a couple of degrees.

Woops put you slightly wrong its been so long sync we have done these Im starting to forget. The ratio is auto set. So if you are seeing the sync/cyl error increase as you crank you have trigger issues You will need to scope the trigger inputs to check the wave form getting to the ECU.

Its the 8th LEM V1 its so early its on a hand etched board. It could be upgraded but really the money would be better put towards an atom.

The Crank sensor I would advise not using the GT101 as it is not a good sensor to use on high tooth counts as it will have issues at higher frequencies. It works ok for low tooth count applications. However the sync can be any place and you should get spark with any offset figure it will just not be at the correct time. Check to see if you have a trig 1 yes and a trig 2 yes when cranking and if you get a rpm reading the is around 200-250rpm.

Im picking you have the LS1 in the BMW. The LS1 trigger whell is a little different to most and there were two variations, hence the two modes. If it is a stock LS1 trigger then one of the two modes will work while the other will not give a stable RPM. The 5-10 or 3-12 refers to the tooth widths.

Woops sorry that file was for the G4 not the + series. This is the one for the + series.