Simon

Steve is on the money. Once inside its very easy to get them out.

Those signals are actually very good for an engine at crank. Can you post you full map from the ECU (.PCL file) Dave or I can then look over it and can try it on the bench simulator.

It could have an impact it would really depend on how often it was activating. It would be worth strapping a laptop in to do some logging to see how much of an effect it was having. Â

Yep that ECU will talk to PC link fine (version2.5 PClink) via the SerialLink.

That is the config for the megasquirt . If someone was kind enough to send one in we could work out the CAN stream

Sorry its an unknown. It is in the list of things to be done but time frame is unknown as it is not in the current being worked on list.

I'm sure it will be but I'm not sure if you will have to be a signed up member of HPA.

Firing order is 123456 The crank is trigger 1 the right cam is trigger 2 the left cam is Di1

It will be due to us pushing up the connection speeds. If the AIM is over CAN then the best solution is to remove the TX and RX serial wires out of the loom. This is easiest to do at the ECU plug.

Yep getting that frequency under 500Hz is the key. This will also be the case for you Sutkale

Direct link below http://www.learntotune.com/pro-tuner/we ... uel-model/

http://www.learntotune.com/pro-tuner/webinars/pro-tuner-webinar-24-link-g4-vi-pec-i-series-new-ve-fuel-model/

Using the dip switches as explained above. Check where the timing is currently and then add retard as required with the switches to get the offset correct.

Switch is for a timing offset. In almost all cases it should be lef in the off position. If switched to the on position then the timing will be retarded by 1 tooth it is only read at key on. Check the distributor is positioned correctly, the rotor should be pointing at the #1 ht tower of the cap when on TDC#1

In this case the launch would be becoming active at 55% throttle and 4000rpm buy pulling out 350% of you timing. This is due the activation control being set to always on. If you are not using the launch control then set it to off.

The frequency limit is 500Hz on the Di I suspect it is a firmware issue as the cal number you have is very big. More typical is around 200 What firmware are you currently running?

The offset is adjusted through the dip switches on the sub-board. Switch will retard the timing by one tooth, switch 2 by 2 teeth, switch 3 by 4 teeth and switch 4 by 8 teeth. The sum of all switches = the total retard. Power to the ECU needs to be cycled between any changes to the switch positions.

Looking at the testing info I would say the the sensor should be wired, Psen to 12V, RR+ to Digital input (pull up turned on), and RR- to ground.

Without seeing a proper CAN spec I can not say if it can be used directly with our ECU. I would be surprised if it cant work with G4+ CAN but would need to see the data set.

Any option of adding more teeth? As only two teeth will giver poor engine position information. 8 or 12 teeth would be much better. However to work with what you have existing you will need to use multi tooth trigger mode. Tooth count 2 Location Crank Sync cam x1 Offset will need to be adjusted to get timing close then rechecked once engine is running. You will need to run extra long dwell times at crank to ensure the coil is charged in time as the engine fires.

Jason is right development on the G4 has stopped after 5 years of production. Support will continue as we still support G1 from 15+ years ago. There is always the option of selling on the G4 and moving on to the G4+.

Is the RPM stable and around 200ish RPM? If this is then you are looking for other reasons. If the timing is stable and consistent on a timing light the ignition side is likely happy. You can then look to if the motor is getting fuel. Also check the TPSÂ is spanned correctly in the ECU. It should read 10 at closed throttle and 100 at WOT Â

Ill get scott to have a look at this and see if we can get some pre-release firmware to you.

Hi You could set a GP PWM table up using Battery voltage and RPM as your axis. It would then just be figuring out the required frequency and duty cycle required for the application.

Hi I would try with just a power and ground connected. The light should be steady rather than flickering. Flickering could indicate a marginal supply voltage.