ls joker

Another trigger option is the honed development trigger kit. It utilizes k series oem hall effect sensors. And you wont have to worry about when your dizzy sensors are gona failed, and it inconsistencies

I will open up my laptop and see if anythings stands out to me. But to be honestly im still fairly new to link and the honed trigger kit. I just went through a shit ton of trial and error. My engine has only ran twice after switching to link ecu. And hasnt ran at all since i put on the honed trigger kit. But i done enough work on the trigger kit and pc link, settings, studying on it, that the engine on the verge of starting. Like you i got so frustrated, i told my tuner he can just set it up before the dyno. Basemap just didnt work. If youre saying your engine will only run on two cylinders, that kinda narrows things down.

Did the engine run on all cylinders prior to the install? Have you done the pc link coil and injector test? Compression test? Condition of spark plugs and coils?

Make sure your grounds are clean and tight. Which im sure you know. If possible have a 40-50amp charger on the battery while trying to crank. Not sure if you can with those lithium batteries. Also do you have an ignition wire lead in between the coil and spark plugs? Did your engine setup previous run with the g4x before swapping to the honed trigger kit?

On paper, i dont see why it wouldnt work. The ecu would be getting trigger1 inputs from the oem crank sensor(long as the function is actually connected on the ecu pinouts). Then trigger2 would be as simple as installing honeds cam sensor kit. I hope youre talking about their new cam only kit(shown below). Then just wiring up the 12v, signal ground, and signal to the ecu pinouts. https://honeddevelopments.com/product/cam-angle-sensor-basic/ All youd really be doing is changing how trigger2 is being inputted if im understanding you correctly. By removing thd distributor and installing the oem hall effect sensor kit. Youve been talking about it on honda tech for awhile.

To add to that, you will need a certain connector to plug onto your board. Should also utilize a 120ohm terminating resistor on the device end

Kool thank you

Yes i have both of those cable. My problem consist of the can lo pinout. If its pin4 on the round connector. If im understanding you correctly, its pin2 on the board connector, but not pin2 on the cable end(the round end)? I will just ohm everthing out tomorrow

The can pcb cable(pn#101-0022) is plugged into the board. Instead of using the canf connector. My tuner gave me the can ltw cable( pn#101-0211). Is it safe to just assume the green wire is can lo regardless? If thats correct then ill just ohm the correct pins on the pcb cable. Then mate it up on the ltw cable

Hey all, I have some conflicting information from the help file regarding the correct pinouts. Can H is clearly pin3. However can4 is shown as pin2 &pin4 I am in the process of finishing the the install on my x series wideband. But at a stand still from this.

That is correct. Not sure if you need a resistors somewhere for the coils wiring

Will pm you

Grants, Thanks man. Good to see your involvement on here aswell. The quality on this product is so great. I havent been excited for a new part since changing to my gtw3476r turbo. My only recommendation would be to clock the home sensor mounting pad facing the opposite direction. Towards the firewall, instead of towards the radiator. That being said install was pretty simple. Wiring was pretty simple aswell. I made a separate harness. Will have to get pics up.

Thank you sir

Glad this was bumped. Purchased the trigger kit aswell. Just need alittle help from g4x technical support on, if i can wire the power source direct to pin a25 on the ecu? Or if it needs to be on a switch power source? Switched power source is suppose to be 12v. And pin a25 would be 14v since the alternator isnt being controlled anymore. Would that mean the whole system would be at 14volts long as the alternator is functioning properlly correctly? I made a separate sub harness for the trigger sensors that will be pinned in B-pins.

Battery was new from honda like late summer or fall last year. Stays on trickle charger overnight. Will put the battery on different charger tomorrow. New batteries on this car has always dropped to like 10v when cranking. That was when i measuring at the starter signal in the past. Emailed the tuner about it running last night for a bit then stalling. Today i tried making adjustsment again, and it wont even run. At that point i was so frustrated with it. I emailed him sayin ill have it towed to his shop when it warms up and he has the time for that and a tune. Sorry i just assumed it had power, especially since ran for a bit a few times. Unless its intermittmently loosing power. Lately ive been datalogging each start. And typically look to see if the injector duty cycle goes up. Also verifying ignition from the logs. Ill backprobe everything over the weekend.

adam, today loaded up the new map from last nite with the post start and warm up table tables changed. it ran for less than ten seconds, but was really lethargic. second time around of trying after that, i took a datalog and think i gave it some throttle, but it died. on the third time i added 20 percent to the entire fuel table. also increase the dwell time again in 11.6-8 volt cells. at that point it didnt even start or run. below is datalog of the current no start. no start 2.llgx

Adam, there is a guage mounted inline between the inline fuel filter and rail. Guage always shows pressure when the key is cycled. I moved it off the rail due to last one failing from engine vibration. The cranking enrichment tables were blank. And the post start, hold, delay, and warm up table were off. Or seemed pretty low. Compared to the 92-95 civic basemap. If i can get it running, im sure i can get the timing set and AFRs cleaned up on the fuel table. Just need to keep it running. I also will need help on how to calibrate the ECUs afr readings to my aem wideband. There was a linear calibration setup for it. Just not sure if im changing it in the linear calibration. Or the input a&b Batterys charging. Ill try to get a log tomorrow. Today i tried to record a datalog while also doing a triggerscope of it starting for the second. But that didnt work out for some reason. Only got the triggerscope.

Guys, Today ive updated the firmware, increased the dwell time in the 0-500rpm column, changed the fuel table to modeled, crank enrichment table copied from 92-95 civic. Had the basemap lock screen open with timing at 16 degrees, offset 250, 80ms ignition delay. At 0ms it fired up on first crank, then died. Engine started then stopped abruptly, like after one second. Afterwards, i tried -250, and it wouldnt even start. Then offsets 248-262 with difference in results. It would still start, then same as before. Dying out one second after starting. So at this point the battery needs to charged again. But should i be looking at the post start table? Or has the engine and ecu even ran long enough for the adjustments to even make a difference?

adamw, i will adjust the dwell table. then i will likely need help with the other steps

Okay thanks vaughan. For the firmware update, i will need to be contected to ecu. Click on options. Then update firmware correct? If you dont mind me asking, how did i even get my g4x plug on an unoffical release firmware package? What are the differences in the offical ones? If neccesary, we could talk about it over a PM. Outside of that, i take it you see no issue why it doesnt want to start? My tuner said the same thing from looking at the logs and scopes. Im pretty sure he knows my craftmanship is quality. Where it shouldnt be a concern.

I have already changed the tirgger1 voltage for that cell and saved it. But yet to stord it to the ecu. Is there a reason why i see other trigger arming thresholds with a cell rpm low as zero? But i cant adjust the axis the axis at all. Could that be the reasoning? Because the RPMs are too low, away from the first cell. Also yes, i was thinking of unistalling, then reinstalling the program while in the shower. Suppose im burnt out Aerace fab, Ive tried setting the trigger offset with the plugs out while cranking. Base timing lock screen open at 16 degrees. Offsets all the way from 0 to 360, in increments of 10 degrees. Ignition delay at 0. Not once did it attempt to start. At 294 degrees, the timing light blinked a few times consecutively. But nowhere near my 16 degree crank mark. Then my battery started to quit. Can someone confirm if my fuel crank settings are decent enough.

To properly capture the spark from the ignition system, an old spark plug wire was fitted to in the coil. Then that end taped up. With the other end on the spark plug Ive opened up pclink. Then went to layouts. Then clicked on open default layout, and everything was set to how it was prior. I really dont understand what is happening all of a sudden. Even on the main desktop, the icons are all white now. The image is gone. Trying to open a file from my documents like before says i need to choose a format to use. Then says find a version for your pc, check with the softwars publisher. This has legit been fine up until about two hours ago

last week i was trying to set the trigger offset while cranking the engine with the plugs out. however my timing light barely showed any triggering. it was super inconsistent. email my tuner about it. and he says it should still start up anyway. and the offset would be able to be set afterwards. he requested triggerscope. says trigger 2 has noise. try lowering the voltage in certain cells or raise the filter. i did both, but there was no change. coils are k coils that tested on the ignition low frequency output test. they were previously operationally on my hondata s300. for some reason now when i open up one of my maps on pc link, everything is blank. like there hasnt been any work put onto it. but ill try to upload the log when it wouldnt start basemap no start.llgx

hey guys, ive been a lurker for a few months now. ive had my tuner send me over a basemap but i continue to have issues with the engine not wanting to start up. setup is a turbo b16 on 1300cc injectors. ignition converted to COP. coils and injectors have been tested from the ecu testing option. spark has been visually verified. im having a hard time finding where my issues are. another pair of eyes outside of my tuners would be great. i was told my trigger2 needed to be lowered or the filter turned up. in which both have been done below are basemap file, and three triggerscope logs. number four being the most recent. i also had the spark plugs in scope four as i was trying to start the engine. im hoping adam or someone can see exactly what is happening thanks in advance for the help PURE BASE V2.pclx Trigger Scope4.llgx Trigger Scope2.llgx Trigger Scope1.llgx