Vaughan
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Posts posted by Vaughan
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Link ECUs have a stop input (like a DI) which can be used from PCLink with a little trickery. In G4X go to Digital Inputs -> Stop Switch and set to Always On. In G4+ the easiest method I can think of is to set a spare Digital Input to stop switch and change the On Level to activate/deactivate it.
The Stop Switch input applies a 100% fuel and ignition cut when active.
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have you set this? What does it look like under the Runtime Values ECU Status tab?
Note that it won't show Lambda values until a short time after the engine has started.
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the Auxiliary controlling the ethrottle relay will show active when it has the relay turned on and inactive when it is off. There is also an Aux 9/10 Supply runtime that shows the voltage of the E-Throttle power input.
2 hours ago, Quino said:I've got the G4+ Xtreme, not G4X. Therefore my options for the E-Throttle setup aren't same, is there a way to do it in this one?
There is not.
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The multifuel setup is intended for a system with the ethanol and petrol mixed together in the tank and the split being controlled by an ethanol sensor which detects what percentage of the fuel supplied to the engine is ethanol.
A system where you have dedicated injectors for ethanol and dedicated injectors for petrol is theoretically possible but you would have to set it up in the ECU as a staged fuel system and feed that staged percentage into the multifuel setup as your ethanol percentage.
For a system with 16 injectors you could set it up as group staged where each odd numbered injector drive is connected to two primary (petrol) injectors and each even numbered injector drive is connected to two (secondary) ethanol injectors.
The current G4X range only supports High Impedance injectors but it is often possible to run low impedance injectors with the use of a ballast resistor, this would depend on the specific injectors you are using though as I imagine you are wanting to use low impedance injectors for a more specific reason than them being a factory item.
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11 minutes ago, Quino said:
Yes, but my rule claims to shutdown the supply when this happens for 100ms, whilst according to the safety parameters from the ECU, it does this after 1s
change your E-Throttle fault delay to 0.1s
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can you attach a copy of your basemap please and a short log showing you trying to make it move.
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7 hours ago, Quino said:
I need to compare the TPS with the commanded position of the plate and ensure there is no more than 10% difference between them
The ECU compares the target to the position and shuts off the E-Throttle if the actual position doesn't track the target position properly. In other words the E-Throttle setup in the ECU already does what you are asking for so there is no need to use an external system for this.
7 hours ago, Quino said:Therefore, how could I do it to read the duty cycles from the signals in the cables to know the position of the plate? Or via CAN, what would I have to do to send the commanded position out?
You can transmit the target and tps over CAN if you so wish.
34 minutes ago, Quino said:Finally, it is possible via CAN or an Output to send a signal to the ECU to make it cut the E-throttle power supply?
If you wanted to cut the E-Throttle power supply from your own device you could set your E-Throttle Relay output to an output that isn't connected to anything and then use a GP Output to control your actual relay based on the E-Throttle Relay output (the one not connected to anything) status and the CAN input. This would not be generally be recommended though for safety reasons. Alternatively you could have two relays in series on the ECU Power and control one from the E-Throttle Relay output and the other based on the CAN signal via a GP Output.
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I assume that is a GTR plugin, it looks like the Idle speed flyback diode
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yes, your closed value will just be larger than your open value.
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When controlling the E-Throttle motor directly from the ECU the signal out is just a ground on one wire and power on the other with which is ground and which is positive being swapped at a high frequency. When the controller wants to move the throttle plate in a certain direction it spends more time with the motor powered one way than the other and so the motor moves in that direction. How long the motor is powered in each direction is described by the E-Throttle Motor Duty Cycle, this duty cycle is positive when the motor is powered in the open throttle plate direction for a greater period of time than in the closed direction on average and is negative when the motor is powered in the negative direction for a greater period of time than the open direction on average.
This setup differs from standard PWM in that the two wires are synchronised together so when one is high the other is always low and the onboard ethrottle controller has special hardware to actually pull the 'high' pin high to provide enough power to move the E-Throttle motor.
TLDR:
The E-Throttle motor is just a DC motor that is being powered in each direction alternately and the longer it is powered in one direction the more it will move in that direction. -
If you want it to switch at a specific voltage you can wire it up to an analog input and setup a virtual aux based on that analog value.
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On 10/23/2020 at 1:21 AM, EvocentriK said:
I really wish the Link manual had better documentation
Is there anything specific you would like to be presented clearer on the EVO4-8 stuff? I can make changes to make it easier for the next person.
Thanks
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6 hours ago, SimonSTI said:
I though I could map an analog inputs to a DI GP input?
you can use an analog as a switched DI input but the analog inputs don't have the hardware to read frequencies and Duty Cycles (The ethanol and temp data are transmitted as a pwm signal).
Neutral switch can be used for idle trims but I wouldn't consider it to be super necessary so it would be a good option.
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50 minutes ago, dbiegunski said:
Btw, engine information is missing a link to chrysler vehicules in the help manual.
Looks like Daihatsu, dodge and a few others are also missing from that list, will flesh that list out a little.
50 minutes ago, dbiegunski said:Well that will be easy for you guys to add support for a dodge neon srt4 in your next release then
Is there anything else needed to run a Dodge Neon SRT-4?
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Just had a quick check and it looks like the PT Cruiser 2.4 pattern is the same as that image
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The sample maps were vaguely converted over from the G4+ ones but seeing as the PID setups changed between the ECUs I didn't have any solid new values to put in, if you get it all tuned nicely and don't mind sharing your PID values I can update the values in the sample map.
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you've selected transmit user stream 1 but not setup anything in stream 1. Usually (depending on the dash) you would select Transmit Generic Dash or one of the other built in dash transmit options.
What Dash do you have?
I read your title, @Adamw might correct me on this but I believe you want to select "Transmit AIM MXS Strada Dash"
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Just the image save removed, the log is much better than an image to deal with
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My Stagea uses a calibration value of 530 if that helps, RSFourS box (R33 GTR) 4.33 diffs I believe and 225/55R17s with the speed signal coming straight from the box. It is possible to calculate it all out but will be difficult with a VR sensor as you can't easily count the number of teeth per rotation.
From the help manual, you may be able to correct for diff ratio
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45 minutes ago, Electredge said:
if its setup to 1 cylinder, will it be able to fire the ignition properly?
it would fire the ignition and the injector once per engine cycle not 4 times
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you would probably setup the fueling to be single point group with active drives set to 1-2 (only wire up injector drive 1), the only way to use only 1 injector at the moment is sequential injection on a 1 cylinder engine.
Scope of the trigger pattern is best as it shows the number and shape of the teeth as well exact positions and widths.
Might be worth checking the resistance of the injector and seeing if it has a resistor pack.
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16 hours ago, chickeneatman said:
I saw your offset was set to -356. I tried to match that but I believe the setting is locked until base timing is set?
That setting is the base timing, you have to set it from within the calibration window (when the window is open it forces ignition timing to a constant value).
Having fuel off is recommended when setting the base timing but you need to have ignition on to set the base timing as you are comparing the ignition signal timing to the engine position.
1 or 2 trigger errors when you stop cranking doesn't surprise me, it is expecting another tooth but it never occurs because the engine stopped spinning. If the trigger error keeps counting up continuously that would indicate you have a real issue.
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My motor is a modified 2006 Aurion and I used Bank 1 (the rear bank) inlet cam for my Trigger 2 signal, your trigger scope matches mine.
You should be able to check the trigger offset while cranking it over and your attached triggerscope file looks fine with no obvious issues (the triggerscope only logs a small number of runtimes).
Do you have a normal log of the engine cranking?
Looking through your basemap I would recommend trying a trigger offset more like mine (-356), it looks like it is currently set to 0 in your map.
Also both your fuel and ignition are off in that basemap
G4X Xtreme 1JZ VVTI not starting.
in G4x
Posted
Have you checked your ignition timing? I would expect your trigger offset to be near 0 on a G4X.