CMSport

thanks Adam - that's pretty well as I had assumed, thanks. And yes, the other small relevant changes to fuel and corrections setup. cheers! Tim

hey guys, I've got an ECU that's tuned and running well but it's been done in traditional fuel mode and there are a few things confusing me... the biggest thing is that I'm used to setting up tune files in modeled fuel mode and am wondering if I can simply change the fuel setup over to modeled multi fuel mode without creating problems with the fuel map?

Ok well that's good news to hear! I was led off that scent completely because there was spark when I checked the plugs sitting on top of the engine and never thought that the igniter would be built into the ECU! Stupid of me to assume. Hopefully I'll have a clip to share of it running soon! Yup sure enough one little Fuji Electric ET 424 transistor tucked away on the board https://photos.app.goo.gl/p5XDzxzm3KzU246p7

still no joy on either front... BUT... I'm willing to how my arse here a little... as it were I somehow overlooked the fact that the factory IGN wiring does not include an igniter and therefore the setup is currently wired so that IGN output 1 from the Link is directly coupled to the -ve on the coil. I have not looked closely at this solely due to the fact that there seems to be spark but perhaps only a very weak one??? should this setup work or do I need to add an IGN driver? I have plenty of them and my goodness that would be an easy fix if that's the culprit !!

ahhh OK I didn't know about the 400rpm threshold. I've got an adjustable timing light so bumping it to 10deg is easy I'll try the timing tweak first then add some juice in the intake and see what transpires thanks again! Tim

I tried wetting the plugs before fitting and this didn't yield any response but I haven't tried an alternative fuel, no. I would have thought fresh 98 would be more than enough but maybe a bit of ether wouldn't hurt.. it does occasionally 'pop' when I turn the key off after cranking which sort of suggests to me that it's a timing issue...? maybe I've looked at it too many times and can't see my own mistake just to double check... base timing on these engine's is normally 10deg BTDC but I've set a timing mark at no.1 piston TDC so, when I am setting the base timing at the distributor, the correct way is to go into the "set base timing" function and lock ignition timing to 0 degrees BTDC then adjust the dizzy to the TDC mark with the timing light, correct? there's no logic in my mind that I should be setting the locked angle to 10deg, right?

*update* still banging my head against the bench with this one! have double checked the wiring to the ECU, drained the fuel system and cleaned, including the tank, pulled the head off and checked clearances then re-fitted and triple checked cam timing and the thing still won't fire... I'm sure something will jump out eventually but I'm really at odds. while the head was off I also checked the timing mark on the front pulley with a DTI, on no.1 piston, and it's bang on at TDC any other thoughts and ideas would be really appreciated!! related... I checked the TPS wiring again and it's a very strange setup. there's no +5v, only a sensor earth then I suppose an earth switch back to the ECU for IDL and PWR... is this normally how the switch type TPS operate?

thanks I'll go over the basics again. there's definitely fuel because the plugs are coming out wet there is spark.. and the timing is as per my mark but I could have been having a dull moment and set up the mark poorly.. dunno. even if that were the case, I wouldn't have thought a few degree would make much difference.. will do a compression test, too which will answer any questions of cam timing but it's a freshly built engine with factory tolerances so should be OK

ahh sorry I should have said... nope, no staging. it's also wired to run batch so all 3 nozzles are wired to inj #1 pin

one more thought, I have set the injection mode to group / staged, is this correct for my triggering mode? I've just read the configuration help file again on injector mode setting and am wondering whether I should be using multi-point group?

Hey there.. yes, I set the timing with a timing light, while cranking and sorry yes the TP main (PWR wire pin) is connected to AN Volt not DI.. my mistake Just had another crack at it and no joy but noticed that it was reading 85% ethanol... I have never had a sensor connected to this setup but I assume that it has taken the ethanol sensor fault value from a previous setup (this particular ECU was not brand new for this car) and applied this because it couldn't see a sensor reading....?? I can't imagine how it would alter fuel because of this given that dual fuel table or any fuel corrections for % ethanol are not active but it's the only thing I can see that's out of place... any other ideas would be great! here's another log from cranking over tonight and adjusting fuel table Log 2018-06-20 5;29;46 pm.llg

thanks for looking at that so quickly - yes, I'm using switch type TPS for now. will see how it drives before I throw that away. I have pinned the idle switch wire to DI1 and the PWR (power?!) wire to TPS main... looking at these now, nothing seems to be happening at the DI pin and the PWR wire ain't doing much when I depress the throttle so I'll go back and check that wiring for sure I set base timing by making a [#1 cyl] TDC timing mark on the front pulley when building the engine (not ideal I know but I can't access the flywheel with it all together), then set the timing configuration on the ECU to 0deg and adjusted the dizzy to suit. does this sound correct to you? I may have flooded it early on without knowing so I'll leave the plugs out over night and try again tomorrow. they're brand new so a little difficult to see if they're wet or not when I pull them. can definitely smell fuel though so it's getting through alright and the expected 300kPa is showing at the reg, as I've entered into the ECU fuel settings...I'll persevere for now thanks again! Tim

OK so I've made those changes and the log is returning sensible revs while cranking at approx 300rpm it spluttered once but other than that no real sign of life. I have made some significant changes in the fuel table ranging over 30% VE I am a little suspect about the TPS calibration. it doesn't seem to be returning sensible numbers and jumps from 0 to 100% sometimes ( you can see this in the log ).. in my mind this shouldn't really stop it from firing?? I have set accel enrichment to MAP and figure that for starting and idle it's only going to be looking at calculated mass flow for fuelling, regardless of what it thinks the throttle position is, is this correct? latest log and data file attached... cheers Tim Log 2018-06-18 5;30;55 pm.llg G4+ Atom Mira EF-JL.pclr

Thanks for that, I'll give it a try this arvo and let you know how it goes Cheers Tim

Here's a copy of a log file plus my pclr file for reference... I pulled the plugs after this and they weren't soaking like it had flooded and then turned the fuel off, cranked over with the timing light connected to each spark lead and all cylinders were firing so I'm a bit puzzled... G4+ Atom Mira EF-JL.pclr Log 2018-06-16 5;43;11 pm.llg

Hey Adamw I am just trying to setup the timing on this car now and am having some trouble getting a signal from the trigger... I have stuck with the single 3 tooth trigger at the distributor for now but don't seem to be getting any signal from it Can you tell me what trigger setting I need to use for this setup? It's a 3 cylinder with one tooth per TDC so I figured that I would use the "1 tooth per TDC" setting but no joy.... any help would be appreciated! Cheers Tim

+1 for this suggestion! knock detection, particularly on older engines where a suitable location for your joe average piezo sensor is not provided, is made difficult. sure, there are plenty of free softwares online to do a bit of signal conditioning but it's still compromised. given that smart coil packs with ion sensing technology is now common place (since the late 90s!) and that these coils are a cheap and easy upgrade an old distributed spark setup (for the old donk enthusiasts especially!) when fitting a Link ECU, it'd be great to be able to use this to our advantage!! certainly a lot cheaper and more convenient than fitting pressure sensing spark plugs! as a bit of an adjunct to this, is there any way we can log the ion sensor signal at the ECU?

oh great, thanks! this makes much more sense *edit* was a big boy and figured out the volume control after some twiddling.. surprising how much gain it required to produce the recommended amount of 'visual' signal..I have ended up with the knockblock volume knob at full, and the computer input control and full plus the PCLink slider at around 80 - 90% does this seem right?? what's slightly more surprising (and concerning) is how much knock it displayed that I couldn't hear through the headphones! this particular engine has not a single mounting point for the sensor on the block, so have mounted two sensors on the side of the head which feeds back a huge amount of valve train noise. not ideal but I'm using the same positions that every [reputable] tuner has used on it in the past so hopefully what I'm deciding is valve train noise through the headphones is just that... I suppose time will tell

Hey guys I've just been searching on this and can't seem to find my answer... I have been road tuning with my KnockBlock G4+ unit, which is great, but I just noticed that the KnockBlock tech specs say that I can use the output for knock sensor freq output in PCLink which would make life so much easier given that I also have a KnockLink hooked up that I watch very closely The ECU I am using on this particular car is a Monsoon, which appears to have a 0-5V analogue input available for knock but I can't seem to find any data on what the audio output from the KnockBlock is... or whether I can in fact just wire a 3.5mm audio jack from the output straight into the ECU? Cheers and happy Friday! Tim

perfect, thanks! also, if anyone else asks, the early model K3 engines that came in the M100 sirion or M200 YRV use a 36-2 crank trigger wheel and the later model M300 sirion versions of the K3 and 3SZ engines came with the 36-2-2-2 both use 4-1 cam trigger

Hey guys just wanting to check my interpretation on the description in the help setup guide... on an engine with a VVT cam (or two), does the cam trigger need to be wired to a digital input (1 - 4) or can this be wired to trigger 2, as a non VVT setup would be? More specifically, the setup I am doing currently is for a Daihatsu/Toyota engine, using the 2NZ trigger mode preset, but it doesn't seem to show anything in the trigger 1 or 2 windows to indicate how wiring should be carried out. I currently have the 36-2 crank trigger wired to trigger 1 and 4-1 to trigger 2 I haven't yet plugged it in and turned it over, just in the final throws of setting up the parameters Cheers Tim

Hey Adam thanks for the fast response - well that's going to save me a whole world of pain to start. I know none of the current setup is really ideal but it's a very new build (a fresh engine combined with a rather unique and untested combo) so I just want to get it running and then focus on the finer details to tune. Cheers Tim

Hey guys, I'm wiring up an old 3 cylinder dinosaur that has two unknowns to me and I am trying to find the simplest way forward... The first is the throttle position sensor - it uses a switch type TPS i.e. a throttle closed switch and a WOT switch. I'm wondering if the Atom will allow me to wire the WOT switch wire to TP(main)? and possibly the throttle closed switch to digital input? I do have a linear position sensor type TPS that I could retro-fit but that would mean machining up an adapter plate which is not a 5 minute job... even if the resolution is not great, I'd rather stick with what's on there just to get it started and mobile. The second is that the distributor has only a single 3 tooth trigger wheel and a N+ and N- and no other crank or TDC position sensing. This seems very strange to me but surely it's not the only one in the world like it. Is my only option here to fit a crank-mounted trigger wheel and cut off 2 teeth from the distributor, leaving a single TDC trigger? or is there another solution? I have wiring diagrams, albeit it in Japanese, and can take pics if it would be a help Cheers! Tim

thanks for that! I wasn't aware that a csv file could be used to export into another log software. very handy

Hey guys, I'm sorry if this has been covered already but I've had a search around the forum and can't find any answers... just wondering if it's possible to perform math operations on logged channels? I am used to looking at map x rpm vs injector duty cycle and can't figure out how to do this with the link... can anyone point me in the right direction ? Thanks! Tim