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DO1023

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Posts posted by DO1023

  1. 46 minutes ago, koracing said:

    Two wire sensors tend to be VR (reluctor) - have you put an actual oscilloscope on them to see what signal is being sent to the ecu pins when you spin the wheel?

    Unfortunately not. This is actually the first I've heard of such a word. Does the ECU not have this feature on DIs? 

  2. Hello all - I'm utilising wheel speed sensors from a 2002-2011 Toyota Camry and 2006-2012 Toyota Rav4 wheel speed sensors in my MR2 Time attack car.

    I'm having trouble getting these to read on the link ecu. I've tried a variety of configurations. These are currently wired to DIs. 

    I believe these are two wire hall effect sensors ( but am not 100% sure ). Is there something I'm missing? Would really like to have traction control in the car as it's rather powerful.
     

     

    Any tips? 

  3. Noticed that. must've got unassigned during some troubleshooting but we have a resolution..

     

     

    I noticed that someone ( i think I know who ) ganged the ECU ground, Coil ground and the "body" side of a block to body  ground .... " grounded " on a stud that sits ontop of the valve cover..

    Immediately resolved and it idles butter smooth now.


    So note to anyone else... check your freaking grounds. Especially if someone else troubleshoots your car.

  4. A new log has been added testing the tracking of cam target vs cam position. To me it doesnt seem that the cams are even moving to that. They seem tied at 0. Additionally when everything is zerod in that table and/or vvt is off - the misfire is still present. SO while thats probably an issue, im not sure how much.

  5. I'm digging into my old maps to see if theres some variance in the cal. I know that at 0 ( like current ) the timing light matches to 10BTDC mark on the crank. 

    The g4+ ( that idles fine when last plugged in ) required 255 of offset to fire. I know the  trigger stuff has changed between the ECU but it's not really making sense to me.

    I'll try swapping plugs and also investigating each cylinder but how possible is it that the timing is 180 or even 360 off?

    I did try inputting those numbers and couldnt get it to start but... this just popped into my head 

    EDIT: just dug in to that. It seems like anytime the car has run we've run 0 offset so perhaps thats not it. That's not to say that the offset isn't wrong somehow but at 0 the timing light matches. 

    -360 wont fire

    360 wont fire

     

    Since the car did have a small period of time yesterday where it did idle smoothly - this is probably not the problem but I figured it was worth a check.

     

     

  6. Bit of an update here. I got online with KORacing today and we spent some time dialing things in fixing most of what you mentioned Adam.


    Oddly we get the lambda between 1 and 2 pretty close and the correction works.. idle target is hit.. But still getting this misfire. Plugs are dark but not what you would expect when " fouled " so going to pop a fresh set of plugs in tomorrow and hopefully all is good. Fingers crossed this resolves everything. 

    I've uploaded some logs and the current map to a folder in that drive called " KO 5-24 "


    The odd part I think I mentioned earlier is that the car had this weird period where it ran perfectly fine ( audibly ) but just wasnt meeting the target idle. So maybe some comparison between those two maps is in order? 

    Folder with the "stable" idle from last night

     

    https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1bcTb7y4EX3h2EFtd9jGaZw-OiQXggVhK?usp=sharing

  7. Sorted out the TPS not responding.

    Got idle target being hit and setting base position actually making a change.

    But the idle is still kind of unstable and misfire-y again. This previously went away and I believe at the same time the lambda targets were being hit... but the idle weren't. So It seems i've flip flopped lol

    Lambda 2 is a bit richer than Lambda 1 and is missing the target but I have CL Lambda correction off so im not too sure how to correct that. 

    I've added two files ( log and map ) to the 5-24 folder.

  8. Adding here that I tried to turn off idle ign control per a recommendation and similar results.

    1 hour ago, koracing said:

    When you're using the pedal, the TPS isn't actually moving it looks like in that log.  Your APS main is over the threshold for idle control as well the entire log.  E-Throttle duty cycle never changes.

    Your PWM frequency for the e-throttle is 8000Hz?  On the 2GR stuff I've got Aux 9 output was low, but that probably depends on how it is wired.

    I'm not sure what this should be as it was configured by a previous tuner. I'll compare with my old g4+ map to see - perhaps this is not appropriate. 

    HOw should I address the APS main being over the threshold for idle control?


    EDIT: just reviewed my old map and yes, the PWM freq is 8000hz on aux9.

    Whats odd is the throttle did respond a few days ago so im not sure what i have misconfigured since then.

  9. So no more " misfires " which is great. I did try what you suggested @Adamw but I didn't really notice any change when adjust the idle base position. You can also see in the log ( added to the drive link as 5-24 ) , if you do actually use the pedal , idle starts to hold and then go into dashpot decay time.

    I tried to upload a screenshot as well but that also goes over the file limit.. 

    Looking at the log - the condition im talking about above - when i command 12.3% APS - idle status goes into " Hold - Throttle Open " where idle position is 5% . And then off that bit of APS - idle goes into Dashpot Hold time until its back at active. 

    I may have something misconfigured here? This is probably blocking my effort to get the base position table sorted.

    There's also a large discrepancy between bank 1 and bank 2 lambda now.with one bank being far richer that i'm not quite sure how to address..

  10. 1 hour ago, Vaughan said:

    Maybe just adjust the calibration voltages?

    idle rpm lockout value is for the amount above idle target when using closed loop or ignition idle control

    Thinking about misfire stuff, did you change the pullup resistors on the cam sensors when moving from a G4+ to a G4X? And is it definitely running on all 6 and only dropping one occasionally or is it running on 5 consistently?

    I did not make any changes there, no. I can't really tell what it is or isn't running on. I haven't tried the unplug coil method. I'll do so next

    As an fyi I've done a smoke test as well. No leaks

    1 hour ago, Adamw said:

    Why is the trans controller requesting 2 & 3% AP when the engine is meant to be idling?  It should only be manipulating the APS signal when there is a torque modification required, so either there is something wrong with the trans controller setup or the APS wiring to it.  The APS sub/main signals that the ecu receives should match and should be zero at idle. 

    As for idle settings; increase your actuator integral to about 0.05, set idle ign max clamp to 30° and min clamp to -5°, do a log from cold start up to fully warm and adjust your idle base position to match the actual throttle opening that is required to achieve the target RPM.  For example at the beginning of your log when ECT is 40° your base position is 8.7%, but it looks like it only needs about 5.5-6% to achieve your target rpm, at the end of the log when etc is 55°C, you need 5.5% throttle to idle but your base position table only has 4.5% commanded.  

    Other tune suggestions:

    Increase VVT RPM and ECT lockout so that it isn't active at idle or when the oil is cold.  Since your fuel table is referencing TPS, you ideally want the top row to reference normal warm idle TP - so for example when at normal operating temp, if it normally idles at 3.5% TP, then make the top row of your fuel table to be 3.5%TP.  Above that you want finer breakpoints for the first 10-15%, so say 3.5%, 6%, 9%, 12%, 20%.  Above 20% you can stretch them out - say 20,40,60,100.  

    As far as the trans is concerned. I had a gentleman do my can setup for that so I'll consult with him on that! I'm sure it's a simple fix if that's the case.

     

    As for your tune suggestions. - I'll do just that first thing in the morning. Thank you for that!

  11. In this folder I have a log and cal.


    Nothing has changed other than me raising the lockout to 2.5%  - which covers the 2% or therabouts APS main. 


    I set a 1050 idle target. It doesnt do much better any higher but it did actually go into idle " active " which is good. Had to raise the lockout RPM to 1900. Had 500 before oddly.


    The misfire sound is still present though although lambda and idle are hitting the targets.

    here's a direct link

    https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1bcTb7y4EX3h2EFtd9jGaZw-OiQXggVhK?usp=share_link

  12. 29 minutes ago, Vaughan said:

    Your APS main/sub and TPS main/sub pairs still don't match each other which won't affect your idle but needs to be fixed at some point.

    You are still at a higher than 0% APS when you are off the pedal which means you never get into idle control (your idle ignition status and idle status both showing hold - throttle open).

    Also your Idle Target RPM Table shows that you are aiming for 1200RPM when up to temperature and so as soon as you do enter idle it will try and raise it, you want this to better reflect your actual target idle.

    Once you actually get the idle activated and the idle ignition control working properly (not pinned to 0deg trying to bring it down) it should smooth it right out.

    Y eah I think the throttle can be ironed out with APS/TPS lockout? Right now its at 1%. Should move it up to whatever the trans controller is requesting. I imagine when things are more stable that will go down from the 5% - it requires a stable idle to function well so trying to fix it there is moot at this point I think. I'll try that.


    for the idle ignition control - I may not have a good understanding. What am I doing wrong vs what you say I should be doing?

     

  13. 15 hours ago, Vaughan said:

    Looks like they're all on stall (ECU expecting a tooth but never comes because engine has stopped spinning) so nothing to worry about.

    not a bad idea to set the Fuel table Ratio Table to all 0 so it always uses only Fuel Table one. Or set the Dual table mode to off, these are both found in Fuel -> Fuel Corrections -> Dual Fuel Table

    So no luck here. I've added a folder ( 5-23 ) with logs and a cal file after the change. 


    It idles quite low now and not as stable and the " misfire " like behavior still persists.

  14. 1 minute ago, Vaughan said:

    Looks like they're all on stall (ECU expecting a tooth but never comes because engine has stopped spinning) so nothing to worry about.

    not a bad idea to set the Fuel table Ratio Table to all 0 so it always uses only Fuel Table one. Or set the Dual table mode to off, these are both found in Fuel -> Fuel Corrections -> Dual Fuel Table

    Okay great - that's good to hear. Thank you for checking that for me! And I'll do that as well for the fuel table. 

    I've give all this a try tomorrow! 

  15. Thanks mate - I really appreciate it. I'll give those a try here in the morning.


    Any idea on the trigger errors?

    6 minutes ago, Vaughan said:

    As a side note your ethanol % reading is coming back at 11% which based on your Fuel Table Ratio Table means you are using 11% fueling from Fuel Table 2 and the rest from Fuel table 1, Fuel table 2 is all zeroes

    Closed loop lambda Long term trim tables

    Capture.PNG



    Oh.. I did not know that.

    I imagine I don't want - not being the tuner - any additional fuel tables on. So I should probably turn off multi fuel or whatever is giving me that second table?

     

    Going from Modeled - multi fuel to just modelled should do this?

     

  16. Okay will definitely follow your recommendations there.

    Just to clarify - "cll " makes sense - closed loop lambda. But what is "ltt"? Sorry for my ignorance there - just want to make sure I'm understanding you fully and completely :)

  17. I think that could be because of the trans controller so i'll take alook there to see if it is is trying to manipulate the throttle in any way.

    The raw voltages are sent out to the trans controller and back into the ECU over CAN. This is preferred to a physical intercept and seems to work well for others. It is possible though that it's attempting to manipulate the throttle in some way during that point so I will definitely check that!!|

    I imagine this would cause idle control to be a bit all over the place but would it cause a " misfire " - I say misfire because I'm not quite sure what to call it. I can attach some videos of the sound of the vehicle on the G4+ and then on the g4X and it's pretty clear that the engine doesn't seem to be " running right ".

    I'll do also what you've mentioned as wel w.r.t the idle. This was all copied over from the g4+ tune where the tuner at the time chose to do closed loop idle ( perhaps because of e85? At current the car is on pump gas but we will be going back to flex and soon as I can get the dang thing to work )

    Later in the logs if you also add " gear " to your parameter list you can see when I am attempting to do the trans controller learning. I cycle from 0 (N) and then 1-6 at some points and then youlll see me applying throttle. During this phase it misfires quite heavily as well.

    I've added two video folders to that same link - one for g4+ and g4x. Hearing them - you can hear pretty well how different things sound.

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