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Where can I found info about old G1?


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The dip switches are to set whether it uses the rising or falling edge of the hall signal.  The switches work in pairs so switch 1&2 are for the crank (I think) and 3&4 are for the cam.  They need to be set opposite of each other.  So for instance if 1 is on, 2 must be off.  If 3 is on, 4 must be off.  There are two little LED's on there so you can see when the boards is seeing the tooth.  

In these old ECU's all trigger decoding was done by this sub-board - you can not adjust any trigger settings in the software.  As Simon mentioned above your one is a "1 tooth per TDC" type.  So for instance if you have a 4 cylinder you want 2 teeth 180deg apart on the crank or 4 teeth 90deg apart in the distributor.  It will also need a single cam tooth if you want sequential fuel or more than a single coil (distributor).

Also be aware, during cranking the ecu does not control advance, it sparks at the exact instant the trigger is received.  So you need your "teeth" to be positioned around say 10deg BTDC for easy starting.  Mostly back in the day when this ECU was current, the trigger was a distributor so you just rotated your distributor to give you the correct cranking advance.  This is also how you set your "base timing".


I dont have a document for this specific sub board, but I will attach one for the older EMX ecu that used a similar trigger board to give you a bit of an idea.


Optical-Hall SmartLink.pdf

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4 hours ago, megstubmw said:

Last question, do I need mechanical sync between crank/cam signals for this ecu?

Not sure what you mean hear?  Obviously the cam tooth will need to occur once every two crank revs and it will ideally be roughly centered between two crank teeth.

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