Cnote0ne Posted June 15, 2020 Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 Hi all, My 350z with a G4 PnP idled rough at first start but died shortly after and now it will not start. It stumbles like it want to but doesn't. My map is attached. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Basemap350zG4.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 15, 2020 Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 Ok, I think the main problem will be someone has changed it to modelled fuel equation but the fuel table only has numbers in it suitable for traditional equation. A couple of other factors such as the IAT sensor not connected (reading -50°C) and IAT trim enabled would have further messed up the fuel volume. So try the attached file, I have updated the fuel table to something that should work and turned off the IAT. If it still doesnt run then please do a log. Basemap350zG4 fuel fixed.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cnote0ne Posted June 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 Thanks Adam. I will try the updated file you sent me. The IAT is a Link G4+ 1/8NTP and for some reason it only read -40 F. I get 4.2v and 1.9K Ohms at the connector. I tried changing the sensor type with no change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cnote0ne Posted June 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 It still didn't start. Here is the log file. I'm geeting a replacement Link IAT sensor from the seller. Hope it fix that problem. Thanks. Fuelchange log.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 15, 2020 Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 Sorry, I must have been distracted with another job when I was adjusting your file, I had changed the trigger mode to Harley Davidson. Here is a new version with the trigger fixed. 1.9Kohm for the temp sensor is correct so it just seems like it must be wired to the wrong input or not set up correctly. Basemap350zG4 fuel fixed V1.1.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cnote0ne Posted June 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 No worries. I have the IAT sensor wired to the green wire Temp 4 on the expansion connector 2 and the orange sensor ground. 23 minutes ago, Adamw said: Sorry, I must have been distracted with another job when I was adjusting your file, I had changed the trigger mode to Harley Davidson. Here is a new version with the trigger fixed. 1.9Kohm for the temp sensor is correct so it just seems like it must be wired to the wrong input or not set up correctly. Basemap350zG4 fuel fixed V1.1.pclr 167.54 kB · 0 downloads It still won't start. Here is the log file. I forgot to mention my injectors are 440cc/min, not the stock size. Fuelchange log1.1.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cnote0ne Posted June 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 It does start when I use this base map but the idle is all over the place. It revs up and down between 800 - 1500 rpm. Here is a log of the run. Basemap350zG4.pclr Basemap350zG4log.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 15, 2020 Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 So does it not run with my map? It will likely be very lean that one you attached. The RPM looks fairly stable at 850-900 in that log, it wont get much better until it is tuned. For the temp sensor, can you set up ANT4 like my pic below, then tell me what IAT is reported with the sensor unplugged and then with the two sensor wires shorted together. If wiring is correct it will show high temp when shorted together and low temp when not connected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cnote0ne Posted June 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 14 minutes ago, Adamw said: So does it not run with my map? It will likely be very lean that one you attached. The RPM looks fairly stable at 850-900 in that log, it wont get much better until it is tuned. For the temp sensor, can you set up ANT4 like my pic below, then tell me what IAT is reported with the sensor unplugged and then with the two sensor wires shorted together. If wiring is correct it will show high temp when shorted together and low temp when not connected. Nope, it doesn't start with your map, only with mine but has erratic idle. No change with the IAT sensor unplugged but it did show high temp 320 when shorted. I took the IAT sensor out and one pin is pushed into the connector, so no connection...IAT issue solved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cnote0ne Posted June 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2020 Hey Adamw, I fixed the issue with the IAT sensor and use your basemap. It start but can't seem to keep a steady idle. Take a look at this log, I would appreciate some feedback. Thanks. Log 2020-06-19 6;24;05 pm.llg 350zVQ35deTwinT440injbuilteng.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 19, 2020 Report Share Posted June 19, 2020 Ignition is stable and throttle is stable so that suggests a fuel issue. You have no MAP sensor assigned for a start. It should be on AN Volt 9. So that is the first thing to fix. Next your VE table is all messed up - what happened to the one I put in? Then get your lambda working and adjust the VE until the lambda is somewhere close to target. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cnote0ne Posted June 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2020 Here is a log with your basemap. I setup MAP sensor on An Volt 9 as you suggested. do I need to add fuel? Thanks 61920logfile.llg 222991368_Basemap350zG4fuelfixedV1.1.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 20, 2020 Report Share Posted June 20, 2020 There is still no MAP sensor set up in that tune and it is not working in your log. Please check it on the screen next time before wasting time with a log etc. It should be clear when it is working, it wont be just a static number that doesnt change, it will vary with RPM and throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cnote0ne Posted June 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2020 I'm using an External MAP senor...Link 4 Bar. It's connected to the AN Volt 8 on the expansion loom and also set in PCLink. Should I switch to the internal MAP sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Electredge Posted June 20, 2020 Report Share Posted June 20, 2020 I would try running vacuum to the internal MAP and seeing what it reads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cnote0ne Posted June 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2020 36 minutes ago, Electredge said: I would try running vacuum to the internal MAP and seeing what it reads Ok, I'm getting MAP numbers now but no AFR/Lambda 1. I have the Link CAN-Lambda wideband controller on CAN 1...all green and ok in Runtime Values. Electredge 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 12 hours ago, Cnote0ne said: I have the Link CAN-Lambda wideband controller on CAN 1...all green and ok in Runtime Values. It doesnt look like you have a Link CAN lambda set up in the last map you attached. It does have some sort of CAN device set up but it is not a Link set-up. What lambda is it? It looks like a Motec CAN setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cnote0ne Posted June 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 5 hours ago, Adamw said: It doesnt look like you have a Link CAN lambda set up in the last map you attached. It does have some sort of CAN device set up but it is not a Link set-up. What lambda is it? It looks like a Motec CAN setup? It's the Link Can-Lambda module for wideband. Here is my tune with Lambda 1 setup for AFR/Lambda. Thanks. 62120basemap.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Hill Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 You have An Volt 9 set as Lambda 1. That needs turning off. You also don't have Link CAN Lambda selected in the CAN setup. (Also the CAN ID is not correct for a Link CAN Lambda, but that won't matter if you just select CAN Lambda from the drop down as your manual ID will be ignored). HTH, Richard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cnote0ne Posted June 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 20 minutes ago, Richard Hill said: You have An Volt 9 set as Lambda 1. That needs turning off. You also don't have Link CAN Lambda selected in the CAN setup. (Also the CAN ID is not correct for a Link CAN Lambda, but that won't matter if you just select CAN Lambda from the drop down as your manual ID will be ignored). HTH, Richard. Thanks Richard. When I select Link Can-Lambda and set it, I get these CAN 1 errors. I turned off AN volt 9 as you recommended. 62120basemap1.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Hill Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 Do you see the CAN Lambda when you go to find device in the CAN settings? Also, the odd CAN Lambda is set to 500kb so you could try that speed and see if it makes any difference. Have you terminated the CAN bus with a 120 Ohm resistor at the CAN Lambda end? And make sure your CAN wiring is correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cnote0ne Posted June 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 No, I don't see it when I do a Find Devices. I'm using the CANPCB and CANF connectors so I was under the impression I didn't need a resistor. Here is a log I just pulled. Log 2020-06-21 12;18;16 pm.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Hill Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 CAN buses require termination at both ends. All Link ECUs are terminated inside, but CAN Lambdas are not terminated so will require a 120 Ohm resistor near the CAN Lambda connector between CAN high and CAN low. You will need to get this sorted first and then retest with find devices . HTH, Richard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cnote0ne Posted June 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 50 minutes ago, Richard Hill said: CAN buses require termination at both ends. All Link ECUs are terminated inside, but CAN Lambdas are not terminated so will require a 120 Ohm resistor near the CAN Lambda connector between CAN high and CAN low. You will need to get this sorted first and then retest with find devices . HTH, Richard. I added the resistor on the white and green wire at the connector to the wideband controller and COM stop working, couldn't connect to the ecu. I removed the resistor and it connect fine. I bought them just in case...but I read somewhere that they were not necessary if the correct cables/connectors were used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cnote0ne Posted June 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 Correction...the COM issue was not related to the resistor. I resolve the COM issues but still no change with the resistor installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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