Trigger Wiring -- Trigger scope not working

[Sterling]

I'm in the process of switching from a DTA S60pro to this Link G4+ Extreme.  I can't get it to show a trigger scope with the Link so I'm revisiting my wiring.   I had the same A and B loom plugs with the DTA so I did a simple pin swap at the A and B loom plugs to adapt for the Link.  I have the trigger 1 set as my crank and the trigger 2 set as my cam.  In the Link manual it shows a diagram which shows the shielded cable from both the trigger 1 and 2 splicing together with each sensor ground wire and at the ECU it shows that wire going into the sensor ground.  

 

Currently I have the ground setup at the ECU in the pin directly next to Trigger 1 in A loom labeled Shield/Ground.  Is this connected in the correct spot?  Or...should I move that to the Ground Out pin on the same plug which is down two rows on the plug harness?

 

I know my trigger offset from my DTA install but I'm getting nowhere with the Link.  Engine is flooding and although spark works I can't get it to work properly and it won't start.  This is the crank trigger on my car:

https://electromotive.com/our-products/½-magnetic-crank-sensor/

 

To reiterate, the only thing I have changed is the ECU, the motor ran and started fine with the sensors in place and untouched, so I believe it's either a setting in my ECU or a pin input issue at the plug.  I'm using a friends map (modified for my inputs) for my motor (BMW s14) and have set up the triggers correctly I believe.  We both have the same components so his map is a good starting point in theory.

 

 

[Adamw]

21 minutes ago, Sterling said:

Currently I have the ground setup at the ECU in the pin directly next to Trigger 1 in A loom labeled Shield/Ground.  Is this connected in the correct spot?  Or...should I move that to the Ground Out pin on the same plug which is down two rows on the plug harness?

That is fine, you can use any of the pins labelled "shield/gnd" or "Ground out" as sensor grounds.

 

When you say "triggerscope wont show", are you clicking capture when the engine is already cranking like my video below shows?  Does the software show stable and realistic RPM when cranking (~150-250)?

https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=bsXqyU

[Sterling]

Hi Adam,

Thanks for the quick reply.  I did click capture while cranking the motor, I did not see anything for trigger 1 but a signal did show up for trigger 2 once I realized I had to crank and then push capture.  The DTA was as little different.

At this point I am getting no crank trigger signal at all, just a blank, straight line like it is before you push the capture button.  The software is showing a stable RPM when cranking, no issue there that I can tell

[Adamw]

If its showing RPM then it must be getting a trig 1 signal.  Can you do a short log of it cranking and attach that and your map here.  Have you confirmed the offset is correct with a timing light?

Here is how to do the log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

 

[Sterling]

I haven't gotten far enough yet to do the timing light, I think the timing is way off, although I expected that the timing I found in DTA would translate as mechanically nothing has changed.  I thought the crank scope could help me out with that.  I will send a log, but have to go back to the shop to do so.  

I should note that i know the timing is way off because I'm flooding the motor.   I can see that I have spark when I removed a coil and checked it on the valve cover, but it's obviously not firing at the right time cause the plugs are doused.  I turned off the fuel pump and continued crank scope attempts and got nowhere.

Thanks for your help

[Adamw]

The Link "trigger offset" and DTA "sensor position" are not directly interchangeable.  I havent touched a DTA for a long time but my recollection was they measure the angle from the sensor to the gap in direction of rotation.  Link's trigger ofset is the angular distance from the gap back to TDC 1.  So a offset of "60" in DTA would be -60 (or possibly 300 (-60 +360) in link depending on whether the cam tooth had already occured or not). 

 

[Sterling]

I see what you mean, I made a quick calculation and got a lot closer and now have a working crank scope which I attached.  I think I now need to get timing set and see if I can get it running.  Can you deduce timing from the crank scope?  I don't have a button for my timing light, need to enlist a friend to help out!  Getting closer.  You can hear it wants to start but currently isn't making it happen

[Sterling]

Base map and log attached.  I'm making progress, probably down to timing and a number of settings now

David Race001.pclr Log_10_1_20.llg

It runs!  Not sure exactly what I changed but I got it working and the base map isn't the worst, at least I can get it to the dyno!